Welcome To Ask The Trades!

Quote: One way to stop a runaway horse is to bet on him - Jeffrey Bernard
  HomeHelpSearchLoginRegisterPM to admin  
 
1  DIY Forum / DIY - Building Questions / Re: 1980 house. Internal breeze built wall
 on: Yesterday at 6:33pm 
Started by Missy | Post by woodsmith  
This sort of construction was quite common, the blocks are often lightweight blocks but not always and as long as the floor is sound it shouldn't give you any problems. It's good to be aware of it though so if you ever have any work done they don't weaken the floor by cutting any of it away to lay pipes or wiring for instance.

As long as you haven't noticed any cracks or gaps appearing I would not be worried, lots of houses were built in the same way.

2  DIY Forum / DIY - Building Questions / 1980 house. Internal breeze built wall
 on: Yesterday at 11:02am 
Started by Missy | Post by Missy  
I have 2 internal breeze block walls coming off my bathroom. They appear to be built on top of a wood plinth. There is no wall beneath them downstairs for support. I am concerned about the weight from these two walls.
Please clarify that this is normal structure or not.  I am very worried. Thank you

3  DIY Forum / DIY - Plumbing Questions / Re: Baxi Expansion Vessel substitution
 on: Oct 14th, 2017, 8:46pm 
Started by molegrip | Post by molegrip  
Ahhh that's true, let me re-phrase that...

It has been thoroughly TALKED about without the plumber...not fixed!  Grin

4  DIY Forum / DIY - Plumbing Questions / Re: Baxi Expansion Vessel substitution
 on: Oct 14th, 2017, 5:24pm 
Started by molegrip | Post by woodsmith  
Ha who needs a plumber! Well you haven't fixed it yet and he will probably tell me I should stick to woodworking when he gets back Cheesy Grin

5  DIY Forum / DIY - Plumbing Questions / Re: Baxi Expansion Vessel substitution
 on: Oct 14th, 2017, 2:26pm 
Started by molegrip | Post by molegrip  
Thanks Woodsmith,

My neighbour stuck his head under the boiler this morning - its tight as its just above a worktop - and found the adjusting screw in the middle of the pressure reducing valve which i'd never seen.  Its in the middle of the bodged filling-loop i mentionned.  (#3)  It was screwed down way too tight and that was why it wasn't sending any mains water to the system at all.  I tweaked it to the right and have now got rock-steady pressure at the clock at 0.75 bar or wherever i want to set it - great.  That at least means i have no problem with the boiler starting as its always got enough minimum pressure.  I'll leave that loop in place until i solve the problem of the constantly dripping leak to the outside.  New pressure relief valve should be here on Monday - first job to eliminate that possible problem.

I'm pretty confident about fitting a new expansion vessel as long as it can go under the worktop about two feet from the boiler t-'d into the return pipe from the nearest radiator.  I'm interested in what to do about the old EV - i can get to the top of it (just), and i can see the bottom fixing nut and the feed pipe to the prv manifold.  I'm not sure whether i could get it out without taking the whole boiler off the wall, which is the recommended method - i'd love to know if anyone has ever slid it out of the space at the top after undoing the bottom fixing - if one had a big enough gap between the boiler top and the ceiling...the diameter of the EV is about 16" so its quite a lump to squeeze out the top with the low ceiling i've got.  But if it could be done then a new Baxi style EV could slide back in.  But as i say the manual says no, boiler Off the wall, no debate.

Given that there is a steady drip of water to the outside pipe - presumably the PRV must be at fault whatever else is going on, as there's no other way out for that leak.  Will report back after a new PRV fitted.

Many thanks for the input - who needs the plumber  Wink

Have a great w/end.




6  DIY Forum / DIY - Plumbing Questions / Re: Baxi Expansion Vessel substitution
 on: Oct 14th, 2017, 9:16am 
Started by molegrip | Post by woodsmith  
3/ take it all out.
4/ brilliant, there's your problem. Pressure release valves seem to be designed for limited use. They easily stick open if used so if you had just swapped the valve you would have soon had a reoccurrence of the problem as it needs a new valve and expansion vessel to be fitted at the same time.
5/ the new expansion vessel should come as a kit of parts, you will need some pipe and a T fitting but then just follow the instructions you get in the box. They come in different sizes, if you find the size of the one in the boiler you could match it or get the next size up.

Best of luck, hopefully this will solve the problem and you can put some inhibitor in the system it may need it!

7  DIY Forum / DIY - Plumbing Questions / Re: Baxi Expansion Vessel substitution
 on: Oct 13th, 2017, 7:56pm 
Started by molegrip | Post by molegrip  
Thanks again.

I'll do it with numbers to stop me rambling Wink  -

1)  The water doesn't disappear overnight - it shoots out the overflow pipe pretty soon after the boiler reaches top temperature.

2)  I start it at 0.5 bar, and it runs perfectly at 1.5 - 2.0 bar, never above - so if the pressure relief valve is venting it is doing it at too low a pressure.  I have ordered a new one given they are not much more than a fiver.

3) The old permanent filling loop does have all the right valves in it including a pressure reducer marked 3 bar - but when i turn it full on, the clock pressure does not rise, so its not doing its job for some reason.  Maybe it cannot work cos its on the flow side of the CH ?  This is a bit of a red herring anyway as i'm aiming to make it redundant.

4)  Today's news :  i managed to get the plate off the top of the boiler which covers the chamber at the back where the expansion vessel is housed - took a bit of demolition as the previous occupants had dry-lined over the back two screws !  This revealed that yes, the expansion vessel is kaput - i pressed the schroder valve in and H2O came p-ssing out immediately, so i'm presuming the diaphragm split aeons ago and the whole EV is full of water.

5)  So the pressing practical question is one you referred to - how about fitting a new EV near the boiler on the return side of the CH.  Now that i've found the existing EV is totally full, i'm not worried anymore abut it still playing a part in the system - Except...IS there any connection between that full EV and the constant loss of water, or is that just a faulty PRV ???  Does the fact that there is nowhere in the EV for expanding water to go force it out of the PRV into the outside world, even though the clock pressure never shows more than 2.0 bar ? (so shouldn't the prv stay shut?)  Having never worked on one before, i've no real idea about the pipework running from the expansion vessel and how it empties to the outlet pipe when it gets full up.

I will return - gotta eat!

Cheers.

ps:  just noticed yr "an adjustment knob integral to the [pressure reducing] valve.".  Thanks - something else to find and play with.

8  DIY Forum / DIY - Carpentry Questions / Re: Manual for Kity 609 ti?
 on: Oct 13th, 2017, 12:57pm 
Started by shedsb | Post by woodsmith  
This one says that it's for the 609 but then it only lists the 639, I'm hoping they are very similar and this helps.

http://pluspourlebois.free.fr/Les%20fous/notices/Kity%20608-609-3.pdb

9  DIY Forum / DIY - Carpentry Questions / Manual for Kity 609 ti?
 on: Oct 13th, 2017, 12:15pm 
Started by shedsb | Post by shedsb  
Greetings!
I've recently acquired a Kity 609Ti tale saw/spindle moulder, just wondering if anyone knew where I could find a manual for it online?
Any help would be much appreciated.
Harry

10  DIY Forum / DIY - Plumbing Questions / Re: Baxi Expansion Vessel substitution
 on: Oct 13th, 2017, 11:49am 
Started by molegrip | Post by woodsmith  
You should pressurise the system to about 1bar when cold and it should rise to about 1.5bar when hot. The expansion vessel should be operating at this pressure which stops it fluctuating wildly. If you are getting big variations in pressure as it heats up that may show that the expansion vessel is not working.

The filling loop should have a non return valve fitted. These look like an isolator valve without the screw stop tap. A pressure reduction valve is much bigger and will often have a gauge and an adjustment knob integral to the valve.

I have a biggish central heating system with 17 radiators and that has an additional expansion vessel which works alongside the expansion vessel in the boiler so I would imagine it would be ok to fit another expansion vessel to your system if you think yours is faulty.

If you are losing water overnight it has to be going somewhere. If you can't find a leak and there is not enough water escaping from the pressure release valve then is it possible the water is going back down the filling loop?

You are right the filling loop should be connected to the return pipe on the boiler.

I have seen a boiler with the filling loop permanently left open, the boiler was mysteriously losing pressure and they couldn't find the fault so just left it running at mains pressure. Not a good idea though as, apart from anything else, the system would probably be running at a very high pressure most of the time. I was fitting a kitchen there so thankfully not my problem.

11  DIY Forum / DIY - Plumbing Questions / Re: Baxi Expansion Vessel substitution
 on: Oct 12th, 2017, 5:23pm 
Started by molegrip | Post by molegrip  
Thanks Woodsmith.  

Yep, overnight it occurred to me that i might be barking up the wrong tree blaming the expansion vessel for such a big loss of water.  I know how it started - it was reading in the past that low water pressure might be caused by a fault in the EV.  But i added 2 to 2 and got 5 - jumping to the idea that a drop in pressure linked to a big loss of water might be an EV problem.  But i couldn't see how water from the EV got out and down my overflow pipe into the yard - hence one of my questions.

I've always been influenced by one odd thing about my boiler which i only inherited in December - someone in the past has done a bodge by fitting a continuous filling-loop (flexible hose) between the cold main and the flow pipe to the central heating.  There is a tap on it so it can be isolated, but the tap was open when we arrived and i thought this bodge was a cheap way to fix a more expensive problem - like eg having to take the whole bolier off the wall to replace the EV !  It's on the wrong end of the manifold really - filling-loops as far as i know should be between the cold main and the Return side of the CH not the CH out-flow side ?

Ok, the pressure-relief valve - one of the reasons i wasn't considering that, was that i fitted a new one early this year, and i fitted a new air-bleed valve and a new diverter diaphragm kit - all simple jobs.  But i am thinking that as the pressure-relief valve was NOT a Baxi part but a cheap ebay clone - maybe it's faulty ?  I have fitted a new rigid filling-loop on the right side, so i can easily re-fill and put the pressure up to 0.5 bar in a few seconds every time i want to fire up the boiler - and it does run well.  The water pressure climbs nicely to the correct 1.5 - 2.0 bar when it's up to temperature - never above 2.0, but the water starts running freely out of the overflow pipe and soon fills up an old coffee jar.  Not long after the boiler is switched off, the water-pressure drops to Zero.  A couple of days ago before i fitted the filling-loop, the old girl made a very nasty noise when i tried to start it, and the 'Failed pump / Low pressure' failut-light came on and it shut down.  Presumably the pressure had hit the floor even below what the clock can show.

I'd be grateful for any opinions as to the cause of this big water-loss.

[ Just thought - it's weird that the pressure drops to zero on the clock when the 'bodge' permanently open filling-loop on the left of the system is connected to the cold main - it has a grey unti on it which i'm guessing is a pressure-reducing valve to cut the mains pressure down. ]

Thanks again.





12  DIY Forum / DIY - Plumbing Questions / Re: Baxi Expansion Vessel substitution
 on: Oct 12th, 2017, 3:49pm 
Started by molegrip | Post by woodsmith  
Unfortunately our plumber is currently sunning himself somewhere foreign so you can take any plumbing advice from me with a pinch of salt!

But, you say the pressure soon drops once the boiler is fired up but if the expansion vessel was faulty I would have expected the pressure to rise before the pressure release valve opened. If you are not seeing a pressure rise first as a chippy it would seem to me that it is the pressure release valve that is faulty rather than the expansion vessel.

The expansion vessel has a rubber diaphragm across the middle, if this fails it shouldn't leak water out. They are usually set to about 1.5-2bar and are designed to take up the expanding water as the temperature rises. The pressure release valve should only open when the system pressure gets above something like 3bar. So if your system is not getting up to 3bar and you have water in the outlet from the valve this is why I think it's probably the valve faulty rather than the vessel.

13  DIY Forum / DIY - Plumbing Questions / Baxi Expansion Vessel substitution
 on: Oct 11th, 2017, 5:57pm 
Started by molegrip | Post by molegrip  
Ok, an old chestnut...
The pressure on my old Baxi 105e drops like a stone once it reaches full temperature.  I put a jar under the outside overflow pipe and it fills up with H2O very quickly.  Suspected knackered Expansion Vessel therefore.  The only reason i can carry on using the boiler is i fitted a rigid filling loop so its easy to re-pressurize before starting up every time.  Many reasons why this is highly undesirable, not least that the system now has no inhibitor in it at all.

Three probably dumb questions - 1) if i fit an external Expansion Vessel running off a heating reaturn pipe (which i think i can do) - does that cut out the old knackered expansion vessel automatically if its still connected inside the casing ?  If the flow keeps going into the old one then i'll obviously keep losing the water.   2) - i don't get the route by which the water from the wrong side of the expansion vessel finds it way out to the overflow pipe and into my yard ?  3) And last, looking at new substitute expansion vessels i see there are ones without and ones with a whole 'Sealed System Kit', involving a manifold with a pressure gauge, pressure relief valve, and flexible hose and one-way valves etc.  Is that the better option ?  Looks complicated.

Many thanks in advance...no pressure  Grin

14  DIY Forum / DIY - Electrical Questions / Re: Wiring/trunking for new kitchen
 on: Oct 8th, 2017, 8:34pm 
Started by Chris.merc28 | Post by The_Trician  
That's just galvanised capping. It is just used to protect the cable from the plaster's trowel during plastering.

Rightly or wrongly, no one uses it any more since the introduction of the requirement to RCD- everything.

An SDS drill bit at full chat would see it off in short order in any case.

15  DIY Forum / DIY - Building Questions / Re: Lead used as fascia
 on: Oct 7th, 2017, 11:22am 
Started by Bristolian | Post by CWatters  
Perhaps see if you can change the windows to top hinged?

16  DIY Forum / DIY - Building Questions / Re: Lead used as fascia
 on: Oct 7th, 2017, 11:20am 
Started by Bristolian | Post by CWatters  
+1

Lead is the luxury option these days. They could have done it with some horrible roofing felt that would have looked bad and needed replacing some time ago.

I would avoid getting some random roofer to fix this. Try and find someone registered with the Lead Sheet Association or the Lead Contractors Association..

http://leadsheet.co.uk/

https://leadcontractors.co.uk/


17  DIY Forum / DIY - Building Questions / Re: New build house footprint
 on: Oct 7th, 2017, 11:11am 
Started by buildynovice | Post by CWatters  
buildynovice wrote on Oct 3rd, 2017, 12:07pm:
I've got permission to build a new house in my garden. Is there any flexibility on moving the footprint? I've been told that as long as the footprint does not increase in size (dimensions remain as approve), you can move its by up to 50% distance from the agreed location.


If you have full planning permission then it's probably not wise to move the position of the house more than a few inches. If you need to move it reapply.

If it's only outline planning permission this really only establishes the principle that a house can be built. You now need to apply for full planning permission and should show on that application exactly where you want the house to go.

Sometimes planners like all houses in a road to line up. They have concept of the "building line" and can be very fussy about this.




18  DIY Forum / DIY - Building Questions / Re: Increasing the height of a planned new build house
 on: Oct 7th, 2017, 11:05am 
Started by buildynovice | Post by CWatters  
You need to be aware that the building regulations require a level entry which usually means no stairs up/down to the front door.

The proposal to lower the foundations/ground floor might work but a lot depends on the terrain. If it's sloping then partly digging into the slope can achieve what you want to do. As could lowering the whole site or a large part of it.

Building a full basement would also get you more floor area but at considerable cost

Another option would be to change from a hipped roof to a gable.

Can you post a link to your plans?


19  DIY Forum / DIY - Building Questions / Re: Roof insulation
 on: Oct 7th, 2017, 10:51am 
Started by Drdtkk | Post by CWatters  
If you fit a membrane from the inside there is a risk that any water that gets through the tiles ( eg wind blown snow) will become trapped against the rafters by the membrane causing the rafter to rot.

Attics/lofts of that age are generally meant to be well ventilated to remove water vapour that gets in so best put any additional insulation on the floor of the loft.

If you are doing a proper loft conversion then foil type insulation might not be enough to meet the building regs. You would probably need to fit rigid insulation between the rafters leaving a 50mm ventilated void between the insulation and the tiles. Then fit more insulation below the rafters, then a vapour barrier and plasterboard.

If the tiles aren't in great condition then consider re-roofing when doing the loft conversion.

20  DIY Forum / DIY - Plumbing Questions / Re: Leaking Shower Drain
 on: Oct 6th, 2017, 2:16pm 
Started by TraceMcg | Post by thescruff  
anything strong and flat that fits between the lug.

There's a washer under the base that seals it.

Anti clockwise as you look at the pic unscrews it.

You want to try tightening it a tap first.

21  DIY Forum / DIY - Plumbing Questions / Leaking Shower Drain
 on: Oct 5th, 2017, 4:28pm 
Started by TraceMcg | Post by TraceMcg  
I'm trying to investigate the cause of a leaking shower drain, I think it might be a problem with the join between the strainer body (?) and drain body. How do I remove this part, does it require a specific key/tool? See picture.
Shower Drain

22  DIY Forum / DIY - Electrical Questions / Re: Wiring/trunking for new kitchen
 on: Oct 4th, 2017, 1:36pm 
Started by Chris.merc28 | Post by CWatters  
Pretty sure metal trunking/cover like this should be used. They are also shallower than the plastic he's used..

http://www.cutlershardware.com/trunking-metal-galvanized-25mm-2-metre-p-4263.htm...

...

23  DIY Forum / DIY - Plumbing Questions / Re: Potterton Promax Ultra - Pressure
 on: Oct 4th, 2017, 11:53am 
Started by Sandy | Post by Sandy  
No. The dial gauge is housed within the boiler unit, right at the very bottom so lower than the rest of the unit by just a few inches, certainly not feet/metres.

When I've looked at the dial again last night, it's an odd scale. The scale doesn't read like 1.0, 1.1, 1.2 etc as you'd see on a usual "clock" type. 1 bar, 2 bar is represented by some colour coded scale that takes up a lot of the dial. It's not clear to read if the needle is at the lower end of 1 bar, or higher end.

I appreciate it doesn't make so much sense. I'll take a photo later and post it and you'll catch my drift.

24  DIY Forum / DIY - Building Questions / Re: New build house footprint
 on: Oct 4th, 2017, 11:27am 
Started by buildynovice | Post by woodsmith  
I assume you just have outline planning permission at the moment, rather than full planning consent? You will need to get proper plans drawn up and unless you are very experienced I wouldn't advise you to try this yourself. I think you will need to find an architect to draw up your plans and he/she will be able to advise what you can do on your site. Planning departments seem to vary wildly over what they will and won't allow and a good architect will get things through planning that would be blocked if you tried to do it yourself.


25  DIY Forum / DIY - Building Questions / Re: Increasing the height of a planned new build house
 on: Oct 4th, 2017, 11:19am 
Started by buildynovice | Post by woodsmith  
If you are thinking of lowering the floor below ground level I would advise against it. It's very costly and can be problematic in the future. A good architect should be able to advise you how to get the most useable space from a loft room.

26  DIY Forum / DIY - Plumbing Questions / Re: Potterton Promax Ultra - Pressure
 on: Oct 4th, 2017, 8:34am 
Started by Sandy | Post by thescruff  
Just a quick thought Sandy.

Is the boiler higher than the visual gauge, say a floor lower, as 0.4 bar could indicate 4m height difference

27  DIY Forum / DIY - Plumbing Questions / Re: Potterton Promax Ultra - Pressure
 on: Oct 3rd, 2017, 6:35pm 
Started by Sandy | Post by Sandy  
Ok, thanks. Think I've got it.

Cheers.

28  DIY Forum / DIY - Building Questions / Re: Increasing the height of a planned new build house
 on: Oct 3rd, 2017, 6:33pm 
Started by buildynovice | Post by thescruff  
I assume you mean lower the ground floor to below ground level.

29  DIY Forum / DIY - Building Questions / Re: New build house footprint
 on: Oct 3rd, 2017, 6:31pm 
Started by buildynovice | Post by thescruff  
Not a builder but I would be very surprised if you could move the footprint without getting the wrath of the building dept on your back

30  DIY Forum / DIY - Plumbing Questions / Re: Potterton Promax Ultra - Pressure
 on: Oct 3rd, 2017, 6:21pm 
Started by Sandy | Post by thescruff  
You need to set it 1.2bar ish with the boiler and system cold.

Once you have turned it on the pressure will rise, an average 0.5-6bar, but depends on lots of variants.

What you don't want is the pressure heading much higher than 2-2.5 bar.

set the digital reading around a bar if you have problems, if the boiler is working ok, follow the visual dial