aren't JCBs the things you worry about digging through your armoured runs

rcds are not needed on cooker cuircuits and i would suggest using the non-rcd side of your cu especially if the rcd is small

the mcb should be sized to cope with the rating of the cooker and the socket (if present)

Many thanks:plugwash,L.spark.

Nobody has asked what rating the cooker is in KW?
So how do we know what mcb is required?

10.00mm T+E is rated at more than 40A but what is the cooker rated at?

Come on lads, pull your socks up here!

TT

Depending on installation method 10mm able to carry up to 64 amps but more likely it will be 44 amps for standard installation. So assuming 44 amps thats 10,560 watts - so if ya installing a big 12kW cooker (hob and oven) then rip out that 10mm and fit 16mm! Else a 45 amp MCB will do the trick and dont fit RCD side.

By the way if its an oven ONLY its probably fitted with a 13 amp plug, if this is the case ya need a much lower value MCB and do fit a lower value MCB.

RR

Well yes TT. Indeed it is a big problem with forums really. It is not possible, when ya think about it, for any non-experienced person or DIYer, to put into writing the data that a pro actually needs. Almost by definition were they able to then they would not be asking the question coz they will know the answer.

Ray

PS. Ya have a PM mate.

It should be feed from the rcd side of the board if the cooker control switch has a 13a outlet on it!!!

BS

super sparks gotta get a new avatar bad, thats 3 sparks including him now....  

Tut tut lads

Dont forget ya can use diversity on a cooker circuit!!!

First 10A plus 30% remainder plus 5A for socket.  Hardly ever need owt bigger than 6mm!
In fact just done a "theoretical" cable size on a 6kW cooker with 15m cable and 2.5mm2 is plenty! I can show calcs if ya dont believe me!

Roy

[quote author=L.Spark  link=1084999130/0#2 date=1085014384]oval shaped cable 10mm rated at current of ~43A+ [/quote]
Cupid - I know it's v.unlikely you'll make this mistake, but JIC - this doesn't mean you need to find some twin & earth cable that measures 10mm across...


[quote author=rabbit_rabbit  link=1084999130/0#9 date=1085429275]Well yes TT. Indeed it is a big problem with forums really. It is not possible, when ya think about it, for any non-experienced person or DIYer, to put into writing the data that a pro actually needs. Almost by definition were they able to then they would not be asking the question coz they will know the answer. [/quote]
Yes - but it's not hard for a pro, or even a DIYer, to ask the questions like "what is the rating of the appliance, does the CCU have a socket, how long is the cable, is it buried/clipped, do you have fuses or MCBs" etc...

I am taking on board some realy good information here guys and i thank each and every one of you THANK YOU.
This is just a thought when you wire a new build (house/flat) ect, how you no what rating cooker is going to be? i am not being picky one little bit,as i said just a thought.

I think it is almost getting to the stage where 2x6mm or 2x10mm are needed, on some new houses we have done recently, there has been a 6Kw Hob, 4.5Kw Oven, and a 4Kw Microwave.  

You really do need the info on the appliances before we you start first fixing, there is so much on the market nowadays.

Strange aint it that we now have to install a couple energy saving pendents in a new build, but the cooking appliances are getting unbelievably large

Fitted a large washer dryer into a house last year (fitted meaning free standing but hard wired.)

It was an american style one, and was 28amp.  (you could wash and dry at once.

This model had the links inside it so you could either use it as 28amp single phase, or 10amp 3phase.

I know some properties near me that have 3ph, with a maximum demand of 30amp, although fused at 100amp.

The REC did this because the houses where at the end of a long run of supply cable (existing), with no HV around to supply them.

Each house has a 3 phase intake.  Its lucky they are large, there is a fuseboard on each floor fed fromm a 3phase board at the intake (so no 400v labels needed which would be awfull!!).

Also good, cause he has a 3phase swimming pool pump, and 3phase calorex dehumid for the pool.

We thought of this in the design.  Switches at the bottom/top of the stairs for the large chandelier lights (which light all floors cause its an open stair well).  

Lights for each floor are switched by the doors of rooms.  Therfore no switches can ever be touched simultaneously.  Difficult to explain exact positions, and what lighs are switched, but it works fine.  When you come down to the ground floor, you have a short walk before you can turn on the ground floor lights.  This doesn't matter as the chandelier on the upper floors lights the gnd floor aswell.