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Sockets for workshop (Read 16815 times)
Lee_Elms
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Sockets for workshop
Jul 6th, 2004, 2:53pm
 
I wish to install sockets 'flush' to the wall in my workshop / garage.

The inside wall is timber studding filled with insulation and covered with chipboard.

Am I allowed to use plastic 'plasterboard boxes' for mounting sockets etc. on chipboard ?
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-- Lee
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plugwash
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Re: Sockets for workshop
Reply #1 - Jul 6th, 2004, 2:55pm
 
dryline boxes should be ok though you may need to buy longer screws

any cables in that wall should be between the insulation and the chipboard (not burried in the insulation) and should be derated

i can't remember the exact figures but im pretty sure you need to use 4mm for a ring in that situation
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Re: Sockets for workshop
Reply #2 - Jul 6th, 2004, 2:56pm
 
also if the insulation is polystyrene you MUST use conduit

soft pvc (cable) is adversely effected by polystyrene
ridgid upvc (conduit) is not
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Lee_Elms
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Re: Sockets for workshop
Reply #3 - Jul 6th, 2004, 3:04pm
 
Thanks for the speedy response !

The chipboard is only 12mm (thinner than plasterboard) so I guess I'll be OK with the screws supplied.

The insulation is Rockwool; I assume this is OK with PVC cable.
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LSpark
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Re: Sockets for workshop
Reply #4 - Jul 6th, 2004, 3:09pm
 
Hey Lee, if it's possible running the cable in round or oval conduit will be a better outcome, you can run 2.5mm twin cable for a ring in this situation, further allowances would have to be made if you ran the cable directly in the wall, rather than just in conduit in a thermaly insulating wall.

Get some 20mm round conduit and run all cables in this if you can, then a 32A rated ring circuit would be acceptable  Smiley
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« Last Edit: Jul 6th, 2004, 3:11pm by LSpark »  
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woodsmith
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Re: Sockets for workshop
Reply #5 - Jul 6th, 2004, 3:34pm
 
Lee, one other thing to consider is that, if the wiring is behind the chipboard, when you come to hang the multitude of tools etc. on the wall, you stand a good chance of hitting a wire.

I,ve fitted  metal clad sockets and 20mm conduit as L.Spark has already recommended. It's the best way of wiring for a workshop and will even allow some changes to be made in the future should you want to move things about.
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« Last Edit: Jul 6th, 2004, 9:50pm by woodsmith »  
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The_Trician
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Re: Sockets for workshop
Reply #6 - Jul 6th, 2004, 9:23pm
 
Easiest way to do this is to dispense with trying to 'hide' socket/accessory back boxs and surface mount everything instead - if it is a workshop, then it shouldn't really matter what can be seen.

I'd go for 2"X2" Galvanised trunking all the way round at or above head height, then drop out of this with either 20mm plastic or steel conduit to surface-mount metalclad accessories.

Dead easy, less fiddly, and you can chop and change things quite simply. Also, you can run single-insulated cables evrywhere, which is much cheaper than double-insulated stuff.

Also, it'll most likely last forever!

TT
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Re: Sockets for workshop
Reply #7 - Jul 6th, 2004, 10:48pm
 
Agreed I would always fit metalclad in workshops if for no other reason than strength, plastic acccesories WILL get knocked about and suffer.

RR
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Re: Sockets for workshop
Reply #8 - Jul 6th, 2004, 11:02pm
 
doesn't mean you can't put metalclads on flush boxes
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Re: Sockets for workshop
Reply #9 - Jul 6th, 2004, 11:27pm
 
The industrial style approach would suit best agreed trician, not sure Lee wants to start cutting steel trunking and threading steel conduit tho
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Lectrician
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Re: Sockets for workshop
Reply #10 - Jul 7th, 2004, 7:23pm
 
TT gets my vote, you should see my garage Smiley

I love industrial, give me some 400x400mm galv trunking and some nice large cables to play with and I will be as happy as a...............umm?............not sure what!
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Re: Sockets for workshop
Reply #11 - Jul 7th, 2004, 10:09pm
 
think 400*400 would be a tad excessive for some sockets in a workshop lec!!

but a nice bit of 50*50 run round jus aove the workbench and sockets can be mounted on top jus a coupling as a spacer to allow for plugtop flex or directly underneath bushed straight int trunking
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Re: Sockets for workshop
Reply #12 - Jul 8th, 2004, 4:34pm
 
Yea, i like 2x2 galv, with a galve coupler drop to a socket (below).  Use the same trunk to tube up and over to the lights etc.

Bit OTT for a domestic garage maybe??

used 400x400 last year on a job, havn't since used it Sad
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LSpark
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Re: Sockets for workshop
Reply #13 - Jul 8th, 2004, 10:07pm
 
you really do love it lectrican, maby u can advise me on some flange adapter thing for some 4x4 trunking, need to spread cables  Undecided
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Re: Sockets for workshop
Reply #14 - Jul 9th, 2004, 7:55am
 
to increase trunk from one size to another??  or teeing a smaller size from a large size??
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Re: Sockets for workshop
Reply #15 - Jul 9th, 2004, 3:29pm
 
well i have to run some 4x4 to distribuition board, but want to segregate cables into several entry's along top of board (20mm K/O's), some one wrekones you can get some kind of adaption flange thing, il have to check it out  ??? Roll Eyes
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Re: Sockets for workshop
Reply #16 - Jul 9th, 2004, 3:35pm
 
2" galv couplers and bushes are best for larg DB boards.

If the board has a removeable top gland plate, this can be removed, and the exact same size hole jigged out in the trunking, use grommet strip where they meet, or better still, a piece of paxoline sandwiched between the two, with the hole in the paxoline cut about 10mm smaller all the way around.
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