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loft conversion (Read 28118 times)
supersparky
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Re: loft conversion
Reply #34 - Sep 30th, 2004, 9:48pm
 
well, im lost

but i think ill go the unnofficial route

so do i add any timber to secure the rafters?

if i ran 2*2 across them and nailed into each one, this would give me a flat floor and a stronger one...i think  ???
but what would i do with em at the ends? just rest em on the end rafter nearest party wall or would i have to tie em in?

is this the best way to do it?

is the weight limit going to be of concern here?

any other pointers?

i plan to make it into a proper room
just use a loft ladder thats easy to get at  Grin
would the weight of the plasterboard balls the roof up or anything?

anything else i should considder?

cheers guys

ss

ps, chappers, not far from you mate
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Robbo
Re: loft conversion
Reply #35 - Sep 30th, 2004, 10:41pm
 
Ahhhh yes S.S ...kinda forgot about you in the mellee!
My suggestion would be to glue and screw 2or 3x2 on top of the original joist as opposed to counter battenning the other way. I know this does not make a 4x2 suddenly a 7x2 but it does improve the stability a good bit if its run onto the bearer at each end, be it wallplate or cut into the party wall.
My thinking is that removing all the strutting will necessitate adding two more purlins to take the rafters.
Nailing 2x1 or 2 to the rafters will extend the depth of the rafter so you can use rigid foil backed insulation (cellotex or triple R) this I think is probably the most important concern as rockwool is a no no, when you consider that a roof covering can heat up to 60 degrees you wouldnt want to sit in a giant oven, the cellotex both reflects and contains the heat and is superb, money well spent. Styra folding stairs, t&g flooring at 12.5mm Rockwool in the vertical walls below the lowest Purlin, fire retardant insulation between joist, and seeing as the sparks is your baby then that smoke alarm system is a good idea, no point having an independant smoke alarm for a fire in the kitchen that wont wake up someone in the loft.
Theese are my views and chappers as a loft conversion man may have differing opinions and in fairness he may be better suited to advise than myself who has converted far less than he has , but am simply adding my two penneth worth to the conundrum. ... over to you chappers.
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supersparky
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Re: loft conversion
Reply #36 - Sep 30th, 2004, 10:52pm
 
so basicly im going between the main 4*2 joists that go between the party walls and support the joists("a good bit if its run onto the bearer at each end"- that the thingy?)
with 2*2 ontop of the existing 3*2 or what ever it is?


whats the reason for going ontop of the existing rather than across the existings?(just wondering)




"My thinking is that removing all the strutting will necessitate adding two more purlins to take the rafters"
the strutting is the 2*1 or so that runs read center of the loft floor  up to the center of the roof itself?

whats a purlin? lol


celotex- that horrible stuff(not as bad as rockwall) that has foil on one side and is a kind of yellow foam?

will nick some off the next site  Grin

smoke alarms....
yup
any system that might be needed
i even have some pyro cable (its feckin expensive and basicly made totaly from copper- can work up to about 720c lol Roll Eyes might do the trick eh?!)

cheers

ss
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Robbo
Re: loft conversion
Reply #37 - Sep 30th, 2004, 11:15pm
 
Going atop of the existing as opposed to the other way will add rigity to the present joist where by counter battening simply increases the load the 4x2 will carry, some chippies I have met even advocate this as adequate in any situation but I wouldnt go that far.
The purlin is the stoutest timber in the loft that buts up to the rafters and gives theese their support from the weight of the roof covering, yours as I can see are not of a great size compared to what may be used today.
Cellotex is slightly behind Rockwool in P.I.T.Arse factor but wait till you feel the benefits in hot and cold weather! make sure you cut tight and leave a 50mm gap between felt and insulation for air flow (vital)
Have not seen all the photos you submitted as my download is painfully slow so if I missed anything important my apologies. As for the electrics you may as well be speaking chinese for what i would understand on thhis part of the job. Sad

Regards

Robbo.
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supersparky
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Re: loft conversion
Reply #38 - Sep 30th, 2004, 11:48pm
 
well, ill get on with the flooring then and come back for instructions lol
as your talk of purlins and everything lost me long ago lol

i dont ahve a clue
to be honest i dident even know i could get rid of any of the roof supports 8)
might leave em there
but the one that runs dead center would be nice to loose
here;
http://novoserve.no-ip.biz/P3050003.JPG

as for the cable, it was my revenge  Grin
dont speak spark do you?
my chip isnt that great  Grin

ss
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Robbo
Re: loft conversion
Reply #39 - Sep 30th, 2004, 11:58pm
 
Assertain the headroom height from finished floor to ceiling and set the ceiling in 4x2 first one end level then the other and snap a string line for the in betweens on each and every rafter ..theese are your collar ties, once done whip out those central jobbies.

No dont speak an ounce of spark... may as well be speaking in tongues Wink
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« Last Edit: Sep 30th, 2004, 11:59pm by ROBBO »  
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chappers
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Re: loft conversion
Reply #40 - Oct 1st, 2004, 12:19am
 
firstly Robbo would agree with you about small dormers you can trim between doubled up rafters but only if some common rafters are left either side of the doubled ones.In fact my next job is one of those, but for a full box dormer you need something a bit beefier.

Robbo is right you will be better off going along the existing rafters as this is adding to their virtical rigidity and going across will have virtually no effect other than adding weight to the existing rafters, as you are adding a complete floor over the existing ceiling.This would only be of any benifit if you were supporting a descrete load eg spreading the weight of say a water tank over several of the ceiling joists.I would sugest you use timber of the same depth as any binders you already have running at right angles to the joists.

Depending on the strutting already in your loft I would expect you may need to add additional purlins to help prevent the roof sagging when you remove them.
A pulin is predominantly there to prevent your roof sagging from top to bottom and not so much to take a load. However a purlin wall in a loft conversion is a different matter as it is there to share the load with whatever you use to beef up the ridge when building a dormer.
I would also add some ceiling collars between the rafters to help the stability.

For occassional use I suspect that 9 times out of ten You could remove most of the struts in the roof add a couple of purlins, board out the floor and, although not the structural ideal, nothing is going to collapse many people have done it ..
wouldn't go over board on the purlin wall as it will be resting on the existing ceiling joists, and when adding extra supports consider whether what you are adding is actually benifiting the structure as a whole as you could just be adding more weight or transfering the load to a part that may struggle to take it

I would probably have some plans knocking about for a conversion for a house similar to yours, that you could have, might help with specs for venilation, windows, insulation etc

where abouts are you SS?
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chappers
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Re: loft conversion
Reply #41 - Oct 1st, 2004, 12:20am
 
sorry see rob already mentioned ceiling collars Embarrassed
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supersparky
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Re: loft conversion
Reply #42 - Oct 1st, 2004, 12:45pm
 
im hemel hempstead

shithole of the country lol

ill get some better pics

because i dont have a clue...well a vague one
of what the purlins are and what the 'binders' are ect Grin

cheers

ss
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supersparky
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Re: loft conversion
Reply #43 - Oct 1st, 2004, 1:33pm
 
http://novoserve.no-ip.biz/P3090011.JPG
thats the central one, there are 2 others, one each side about 2 meters eithr side, its 4*1

http://novoserve.no-ip.biz/P3090014.JPG
and  http://novoserve.no-ip.biz/P3090016.JPG
thats one of the 4....thingys'

top of one of the above 4 thingys' with the strut comming up from the floor
http://novoserve.no-ip.biz/P3090015.JPG

this is the center...thingy' made from 5*1
and the 'rafters?' are made from 3*2
lol
http://novoserve.no-ip.biz/P3090018.JPG

the end of the supporting roof thingy' lol
http://novoserve.no-ip.biz/P3090017.JPG made from 6*2


the joists appear to be 1.5 * 4


other photos;

http://novoserve.no-ip.biz/P3090012.JPG

http://novoserve.no-ip.biz/P3090020.JPG
http://novoserve.no-ip.biz/P3090021.JPG
http://novoserve.no-ip.biz/P3090022.JPG


cheers guys

ss
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