???
I am soon gonna be attempting to fit my own double glazing. Could anyone give me some advice on what fittings to use and things i need ot lookout for.
Much obliged
Craig

I assume by 'double glazing' you mean you're replacing the windows? (not just the glass?)

Assuming it is the windows you are changing, you have to notify Building Control at your local council as all window installations must either be installed by a FENSA registered contractor or else be inspected by your Building Inspector, for which they charge a fee.

There are so many things you need to know about the installation that I could spend all evening here typing 'how to do it'.  If you really don't know anything about the removal and installation of new windows I would suggest not doing it.  Fitters aren't that expensive and can install a house full of windows in a couple of days.  You then have a FENSA guarantee as well.

If you really want to do it yourself then good luck!

Well if you're determined to do this then really there are no special tricks to know about except:

If the house is rendered externally you may have a problem getting the new windows in.

The current window boards may be glued and/or pinned to the old windows.

The current window boards have a tongue on them which has to be removed if you're fitting upvc as the upvc don't have a rebate for this.

Egress hinges are need upstairs in certain locations for fire escape.

Trickle ventilation may be needed. Some building inspectors are happy with just the 'night vent' setting on the handle whereas others want a proper trickle vent too.

Cut the old frames out, and don't lever against the outer brickwork or you'll damage the brick quoins on the outer reveal.

The new windows may be slimmer so you have to decide whether to bring them back to the old plaster internally or keep them in the same position externally as the old ones. This may mean making good to plaster internally.

Making good to plaster internally sounds easy but you may have some of the external brickwork showing in this 'gap'. This can cause damp on the inner plasterwork if this is not done properly (capilliary damp).

Access?  It is usual to replace windows from the inside but you will need to get to the outside of the windows too for glazing.  Is access easy?

Big sashes need 'heel and toeing' when fitting the glass.

How do you intend to fix the frames. Fischer type fixings?  

How's your siliconing?  Make a mess of this externally and you have spoiled the whole job.

You'll need glazing packers, the correct width and thickness.

Do the upstairs windows first, then if you drop anything it will only damage the old windows, not the new ones.

Can't think of anything else just now........  

The term 'sash' means the side hinged opening bit of the window, I think you're  thinking of 'sliding sash'.  The opening sashes are the bits that need heel/toe treatment when glazing.

Window boards are indeed the inner cills. See the piccy below, there is a tongue on the back of the window board (cill) which fits into a rebate on the back of the old windows. This has to be chiselled off.

                                                                   

You may find that your house doesn't have this type of cill fixing (due to its age) but it's no problem to chisel these tongues off, especially if you intend to cover them with upvc cills as any damage you do to the window board won't be seen.

The frame fixings want to be 120 mm x 10mm (or longer), with minimum 2 each side of a normal 1200 high frame, more if the frame is much taller. Drill through the frame into the center of a full brick rather than into a half brick or a mortar joint. When tightening these fixing the jambs will distort.  Just tighten them enough to start the distortion, then back off a bit to let the upvc go back into shape.  The fixings can be used to center the frame in the opening.  Don't fall into the trap of having all fixings over tight as this will bow the frame outwards.

There are no regs regarding what you pack the frame with during installation but you have to be careful the frame doesn't fall out while you're reaching for the drill or something!  If I'm on my own I clamp a sash-cramp to the face brickwork through the window and onto the inner plaster.  This stops the frame falling out.  You can then wedge with plastic or timber wedges as required.  Exp foam is used a lot as this really grips like the proverbial but use too much and it's a disaster  

I find the best way is to wedge upwards only, banging wedges under the cill where ther are jambs (most rigid part).  This holds the frame in place, do the final plumbing up using a white rubber mallet, drill and fix one fixing first, re-check all is plumb and level then fix another, re-check again and so on.

I would recommend fixing the smallest frame upstairs first, this gives you a chance to get the hang of things.

One thing, many houses don't have lintels over the outer brickwork over frames.  The original window was used as the lintel!  Take the window out and you can have problems, especially on wider openings.  Check that the lintel does support the front brickwork before taking the windows out.

Silicone seal everything externally, this helps draughtproof the installation.

[quote author=JerryD  link=1099670694/0#6 date=1099761101]Drill through the frame into the center of a full brick rather than into a half brick or a mortar joint. When tightening these fixing the jambs will distort.  Just tighten them enough to start the distortion, then back off a bit to let the upvc go back into shape.  The fixings can be used to center the frame in the opening.  Don't fall into the trap of having all fixings over tight as this will bow the frame outwards. [/quote]

To get round this, and if the wall is a cavity one, then you can screw in some 2x2 to the outside wall (again not on a half brick or joint) just inside the cavity. Make sure this is level and then you can screw the frame to this batten with not too much worrying about twisting the frame.

Plastic spacers.  You buy them in thicknesses from 1mm to 6mm usually.  I buy 2000 in an 'assortment' bag for about £15.

There are various sizes available (apart from the thickness)

see this link:

www.prismprofiles.com/

You need a 10mm drill bit for 10mm fixings!! (and about 150mm long is this case)

Regarding heel/toeing, see this link, it explains it better than I could  

http://www.double-glazing-web.co.uk/trouble_locking_door_dropped.htm

Glad I checked back on this site.

Have nearly completed my house re-wire (hence earlier posts in Electrical) and am now getting quotes for replacement PVC double glazing for whole house (3 bed link detached) and the garage window and door.

Very interesting to read some of the insider tips. My question is "what should I ask a prospective D/G salesman?"

Some questions I've posed already include:

- are you Fensa registered? (even though I now know they won't help with botch jobs)
- what's your profile like (70mm? 24mm or 28mm glass cross-section? Do you use pure/virgin plastic in your U-PVC/PVC-U? Internally beaded for extra security? How many locking points and of what type? Pilkington K glass all round? Toughened glass where necessary? )
- company history?
- references?


Average quote seems to be around £5000 - £5500.

Is there anything else I need to ask to ensure I'm not hiring a yee-haa cowboy?

Talking of cowboys - I had the SafeStyle UK salesman round a couple of days ago. His starting quote was £18000 !!! (Yes - Eighteen Thousand Pounds).  He came down to £5900 but I'd lost interest by then. Have since come across http://www.dooyoo.co.uk/local-services/safestyle-uk/ and similar and I'm keeping well away.

Thanks,
diy_guy

just remember if you invite people into your house you loose a lot of your cooling of rights
thats why a lot of companys [not just double glazing] just love it when you answer the promotional free this free that and free the other ad cos you are inviting the salesman in "GOTCHA"