Mannyroad
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Hi Woodsmith/ Big_all,
Thanks for your posts.
I see you point about not pressing down too much initially as this will remove the bow and make the cutter take the same from the entire board length, thus not removing any bow.
The boards were cut and thicknessed to 47mm for me, allowing me 3mm for final planing down to 44mm. They've been laid flat in my garage (they're for new doors to the garage) for several months now so should be in stable condition (stress following planing excepted).
The main bow is to the edges of the timbers. I reckon there is about a 4mm bow over the 8 foot length of the timber, so by your reckoning Woodsmith, which makes perfect sense, I would lose about 10mm overall, which is fine. I will have another go with the concave stile edges using no downward pressure and see how it goes, not too hopeful though because I can't help but feel that the short length of the tables allows the long timbers to arc over the tables/cutter, if you see what I mean.
The face of the stiles is bowed maybe 2-3mm and I suspect the shear weight of the pitch pine is taking the bow out as it goes over the cutter, so not sure how to sort this.
One thing I don't understand is that when I plane the edge of the 7" and 9" rails (4 foot in length), I can't seem to get a flat reference surface when tested with my stainless straight edge. It seems to be very slightly concave after passing over the jointer as though it's taking slightly more from the middle of the rail than the ends. My knives have been painstakingly set to the correct height above the outfeed table (so as to move a piece of wood approx. 2-3mm when rotating the cutter) so I know its not that causing this. I wondered if it might possibly be the tables not being coplanar as this is a planer/thicknesser I bought from a joiner who seemed genuine and said it was working perfectly (he'd just bought a bigger more commercial one). I'm not suggesting they are out of parallel, I just can't figure out why I can't get a FLAT surface/edge.
I here a lot about making sure the tables are coplanar but don't know where the adjusters are for aligning the infeed to the outfeed table if they prove to be out of parallel. Anyone know where the adjusting goes on for a Kity 636 as I don't have a manual? It's the older version, not the more modern looking 2636(?) one that is available these days (who's manual doesn't seem to tell you how to adjust the tables anyhow).
Cheers guys.
Thanks guys
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