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1  DIY Forum / DIY - Building Questions / Re: wall tiling
 on: Sep 22nd, 2018, 10:15pm 
Started by Hussam | Post by Hussam  
THANK YOU !!!!!!!!

that was a great help !!

2  DIY Forum / DIY - Building Questions / Re: wall tiling
 on: Sep 22nd, 2018, 10:07am 
Started by Hussam | Post by woodsmith  
You would just make your own packers. Measure the thickness of the tiles from the wall, this will be about 6-8mm normally. Then you need to source something to that thickness, it doesn't need to be exact the wall unit mounting brackets will allow for some adjustment so I usually use plywood. You can buy small sheets from B&Q for instance. Then mark on the wall exactly where the cabinet will fit and glue, with Gripfil or the like, the packers to the wall so that they fit in the top corners making sure they do not project out beyond the sides of the cabinet.

Once set you can then fix the mounting brackets through the packers into the wall. When you hang the cabinets you will have a small gap down the sides but this will be covered up when you fit the decorative side panels to the wall units.

3  DIY Forum / DIY - Building Questions / Re: Woodworm
 on: Sep 21st, 2018, 1:43pm 
Started by Natedog | Post by thescruff  
Support the pipe so you don't get vibration noises.

If your taking steam out you may need some sort of condensation trap to drain the water.

I would use the flexible and zip it on tight, you can use 3-4 together to make up the length.

4  DIY Forum / DIY - Building Questions / Re: wall tiling
 on: Sep 21st, 2018, 12:41pm 
Started by Hussam | Post by Hussam  
THANK YOU for your help !!!!

could you please post a picture of the fit packers ?

5  DIY Forum / DIY - Building Questions / Re: wall tiling
 on: Sep 21st, 2018, 9:37am 
Started by Hussam | Post by woodsmith  
If you are only levelling the wall to fit wall cabinets rather than tile the whole wall you could just fit packers (100x100mm ply to the thickness of the tiles under where you will fit the mounting brackets.

But back to your original question, it's normally better to remove the paint. Two things to try, first get some duct tape and stick a 300mm length to the wall, rub it on hard and leave it for half an hour. If you can pull it of without taking any paint off with it then wet a section of the wall, leave it for a few minutes and then wet again. Get a scraper, the type that fit a Stanley blade work well, and try to scrape the paint off. It quite often comes off very easily. If after this the paint is still intact you can just roughen the surface with a very coarse sandpaper before sealing the wall, use the sealant recommended on the tile adhesive, not PVA. If either of these processes lifts the paint you would need to remove all the paint before sealing and tiling.

6  DIY Forum / DIY - Building Questions / wall tiling
 on: Sep 20th, 2018, 11:41pm 
Started by Hussam | Post by Hussam  
Hi,

I have a concrete wall that's already painted , but I would like to tile because the wall is only half tiled, is it possible to tile it with no prep to the wall?

the tiles are only needed so the wall would be evened so the kitchen cabinets could be installed easily .


7  DIY Forum / DIY - Building Questions / Re: Up and over garage door tensioning
 on: Sep 20th, 2018, 7:20pm 
Started by andyl3004 | Post by woodsmith  
It may be worth getting a specialist garage door repairer round. I imagine, unless there is something else wrong, he can sort this in a few minutes in which case it shouldn't cost too much. I called one out at my last house, the door had never worked properly and he knew exactly how to set it up and I never had a problem with it again.

8  DIY Forum / DIY - Building Questions / Re: India stone steps
 on: Sep 20th, 2018, 5:02pm 
Started by CWatters | Post by CWatters  
I've lifted one row and removed existing mortar. looks like they used three different mixes to build the steps.

1) Mortar to lay the bricks - this seems sound, very strong and hard to remove.

2) A coarse sand/cement mix to bed the stone. It's this that seems to be weak. It's on the sandy side. Not crumbly but not nearly as strong as the mortar used to bed the bricks. Don't think they used quite enough cement in the mix.

3) A resin sand based grout in the gaps - this also seems rather weak. Wouldn't tolerate a pressure washer.

Looks like I'll be giving the 4:1 mix a go when the weather allows.


9  DIY Forum / DIY - Building Questions / Re: Up and over garage door tensioning
 on: Sep 20th, 2018, 4:39pm 
Started by andyl3004 | Post by andyl3004  
Thanks. Already did that. Most show a pin being inserted to tension spring but this door already had a pin inserted so trying to see if anyone else mounted one of these. Bought from Selco.

10  DIY Forum / DIY - Building Questions / Re: Woodworm
 on: Sep 20th, 2018, 2:18pm 
Started by Natedog | Post by Natedog  
I've got a few lengths of soil pipe kicking about already 😉

11  Public Forum / Humour / Woman offers to sell four 50p coins for £1
 on: Sep 20th, 2018, 12:23am 
Started by CWatters | Post by CWatters  

12  DIY Forum / DIY - Building Questions / Re: Up and over garage door tensioning
 on: Sep 19th, 2018, 11:14pm 
Started by andyl3004 | Post by woodsmith  
There are a few videos on YouTube which look like they show you how to fit and tension Novoferm doors. It may be worth Googling your door and add YouTube to see if they cover your exact door.

13  DIY Forum / DIY - Building Questions / Up and over garage door tensioning
 on: Sep 19th, 2018, 9:57pm 
Started by andyl3004 | Post by andyl3004  
Hi

I have an up and over Novoferm garage door - the basic one sold at Selco.

I mounted it. It has never had any tension. It does not raise itself. I can open it but have to lift it dead weight and when lowering it the brakes stop in every hole in the way down and the when lifting it the steel cables are slack. I have tensioned it at least 20 revolutions. I know it is supposed to be 26 revolutions judging by the standard of other up and overs.

But not sure if I'm doing the wrong thing because the opppsite end of the spring there is a pin in the end of the spring. It's not crook pin shaped - it doesn't have a curved section it's just a straight pin. But like Henderson or other up and overs I thought maybe I should have removed it. But the installation instructions said nothing about this pin.

So not sure shall I just keep tensioning or remove the pin? I haven't taken a picture but it feels like the tensioning I have done has caused the spring to stretch and to begin to coil over the tensioning nut.

14  DIY Forum / DIY - Building Questions / Re: Woodworm
 on: Sep 19th, 2018, 11:18am 
Started by Natedog | Post by woodsmith  
May be worth looking at flexible aluminium vent pipe rather than soil pipe, as it may be easier to fit.

15  DIY Forum / DIY - Building Questions / Re: Woodworm
 on: Sep 19th, 2018, 9:51am 
Started by Natedog | Post by Natedog  
This section of roof had no ventilation at all.  It's in the sloping bit where the roof used to be, but there's now an extension on the other side.  This has been addressed.  Celotex and a vapour barrier has gone in under the new plaster board, with a gap behind it to allow air movement, and the soffit vent that was clogged up with old mortar has been cleared.  

Also spotted the pipe had come off the shower extractor, so it was just venting into the loft, so that should help it not be so humid with that back on.  Going to replace the cheapy flexi vent stuff with soil pipe when I have the money.  Won't be able to move about and wiggle off again then

16  DIY Forum / DIY - Building Questions / Re: Woodworm
 on: Sep 19th, 2018, 8:56am 
Started by Natedog | Post by woodsmith  
Natedog wrote on Sep 18th, 2018, 9:28pm:
Bought 2 gallons and coated everything in sight  Grin


I'd have done the same but something else you could look at is ventilation and moisture. Woodworm like damp(ish) timber. Once the wood gets below 20% moisture content they tend to leave it alone. So check you have adequate ventilation and that there is no obvious ways that moisture in the house can get into the roof space. For instance you can often get woodworm around the loft hatch as warm air from the house condenses on the timber.

17  DIY Forum / DIY - Building Questions / Re: Grounds built above damp course
 on: Sep 19th, 2018, 8:46am 
Started by JS | Post by woodsmith  
A landscaper would be first choice but a builder may also be interested in doing this sort of work. Make sure you find someone who looks fit and strong, this sort of job is hard work and so be prepared for it being more expensive than you possibly expected.

18  DIY Forum / DIY - Building Questions / Re: India stone steps
 on: Sep 19th, 2018, 8:38am 
Started by CWatters | Post by woodsmith  
Normally you just need to wet the stone. You could try wetting the stone, mixing a small amount of cement and seeing if it sticks to the underside, I'd be surprised if it didn't but if you have no joy you could use an external cement based tile adhesive instead.

19  DIY Forum / DIY - Building Questions / Re: Woodworm
 on: Sep 18th, 2018, 9:28pm 
Started by Natedog | Post by Natedog  
Bought 2 gallons and coated everything in sight  Grin

Think I've got some syringes and needles somewhere.  I'll dig them out

Thanks dude

20  DIY Forum / DIY - Building Questions / Grounds built above damp course
 on: Sep 18th, 2018, 9:14pm 
Started by JS | Post by JS  
Hi, we have damp in most of downstairs and after eliminating other  causes think it is due to the concrete paths around the house being built too high against the house and also being cracked. We basically need the grounds dug up, dug deeper and re-done and with sufficient drainage solutions put in place. However we don't know who to contact to do this, whether it would be a builder or a paving specialist or groundsworker or someone else etc etc

21  DIY Forum / DIY - Building Questions / Re: Woodworm
 on: Sep 18th, 2018, 4:35pm 
Started by Natedog | Post by CWatters  
I'd treat any with holes and for a meter or two in either direction just to be sure.

A syringe as used for refilling printer ink carts might be worth using to inject any holes on the underside of timbers.

22  DIY Forum / DIY - Building Questions / Re: Finished plasterwork exposed to the elements.
 on: Sep 18th, 2018, 4:32pm 
Started by jojoba | Post by CWatters  
+1

Needs to be kept covered up.

23  DIY Forum / DIY - Building Questions / Re: India stone steps
 on: Sep 18th, 2018, 4:29pm 
Started by CWatters | Post by CWatters  
Any ideas how to improve adhesion to the stone? Wet/don't wet it before laying? The stone seems quite impermeable.

24  DIY Forum / DIY - Building Questions / Re: Garage conversion
 on: Sep 18th, 2018, 8:48am 
Started by Glenn Daulton | Post by woodsmith  
Without a decent cavity between the walls you are likely to have damp bridging the cavity unless the builder has done an impeccable job and both internal faces are perfect which is doubtful. I don't know how much space you can afford to lose, ideally you could do with applying a membrane, battening the wall and fitting foil backed insulation between the battens before fitting a vapour barrier and then plasterboarding. However if you don't have that much space to lose you could use insulated plasterboard. In which case you would dot and dab them to the wall using plasterboard adhesive and then adding some screws to prevent the plasterboard from parting with the wall in the event of a fire. If you are dot and dabbing the plasterboard you can't fit a membrane to the wall use the close cell foam insulated plasterboard and it acts as a vapour barrier so no need to add one of those either.

25  DIY Forum / DIY - Building Questions / Re: India stone steps
 on: Sep 18th, 2018, 8:36am 
Started by CWatters | Post by woodsmith  
I'd just remove all the pointing, dig at least 10-15mm of the base out then mortar and point them back in with a 1:4 mix of cement and sharp sand. What you are suggesting may work but i doubt it and if it didn't you would have made a hell of a mess which would be hard to put right.

26  DIY Forum / DIY - Electrical Questions / Re: Help with changing skt to a dimmer
 on: Sep 18th, 2018, 7:24am 
Started by Robsheep | Post by Robsheep  
Just want to give a massive thanks for your reply to my post. Works a treat.

27  DIY Forum / DIY - Building Questions / Re: Garage conversion
 on: Sep 17th, 2018, 11:24pm 
Started by Glenn Daulton | Post by Glenn Daulton  
Thanks for reply. Yes was thinking it would have to be from the inside with insulated plasterboard. Didn’t know about the breather membrane and wasn’t sure about what thickness.
The wall extends up into its own loft space.

Cheers

28  DIY Forum / DIY - Building Questions / India stone steps
 on: Sep 17th, 2018, 5:39pm 
Started by CWatters | Post by CWatters  
We have some brick steps covered with india stone squares and rectangles about 160mm (about 6.5") square and 1" thick. All fine for 10 years but now several slabs that overhang the edges of the steps slightly are working loose, typically leaving the mortar bed on the steps rather than the stone.

How best to repair these.  I'm wondering if I could remove any loose materials, use a resin to seal the mortar, bricks and underside of the india stone, then use something like a PU based adhesive to really stick the b----s down?

Image 16


29  DIY Forum / DIY - Building Questions / Re: Garage conversion
 on: Sep 17th, 2018, 1:28pm 
Started by Glenn Daulton | Post by CWatters  
I suspect your only option is to insulate on the inside.  I think I would fit a breather membrane to the wall then either insulation, battens and plasterboard or just insulated plasterboard. Probably at least 50mm of insulation but check what the Building Regs require.

If it's an integral garage how is the wall of the room above it insulated?

You need to think about how wall, ceiling and floor insulation meets up to avoid gaps.

30  DIY Forum / DIY - Electrical Questions / Re: SELV Chandelier ???
 on: Sep 17th, 2018, 1:18pm 
Started by wozzer | Post by CWatters  
What sort of bulbs does it need?

Perhaps you can wire in LEDs permanently and make any joints IP44 by  potting them or using heatshrink?