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Sep 27th, 2020, 11:20am
Quote: The lottery is a tax on people who are bad at maths - Ambrose Bierce (1842)


1  DIY Forum / DIY - Electrical Questions / Re: Back to Back Single Brick Wall Sockets
 on: Sep 25th, 2020, 1:15pm 
Started by ianmgsmith | Post by ianmgsmith  
Many thanks Lectrician, will remember to offset boxes next time. Take care, ian

2  DIY Forum / DIY - Electrical Questions / Re: Back to Back Single Brick Wall Sockets
 on: Sep 25th, 2020, 6:56am 
Started by ianmgsmith | Post by Lectrician  
Cable straight through is absolutely fine.

It is more common to drill the hole through at an angle so your boxes are not exactly back to back, as single skin walls, especially brick, can end up with almost nothing left behind the boxes.

3  DIY Forum / DIY - Electrical Questions / Back to Back Single Brick Wall Sockets
 on: Sep 24th, 2020, 3:55pm 
Started by ianmgsmith | Post by ianmgsmith  
Hi All,

I am a d.i.y.er seeking your kind advice/guidance adding a 13A double socket in a single-brick wall, opposite to ("back to back" with) an existing 13A double wall socket on the other side.

The existing circuit is a 2.5 mm2 radial on a 16A RCB supporting two 13A double sockets, to which I am adding a third on the end.

My question is, do the regulations require a steel (or other) conduit pipe between the backs of the two metal back-boxes, or is it permitted to simply run the cable through grommeted punch-holes and through the 14mm drilled hole?

I'm using sheathed 2.5 mm2 twin + earth cable, an off-cut from the same circuit which was left over by the Electrician who rewired the house.  

Attaching pic of the 14mm hole.

Many thanks, ian


4  DIY Forum / DIY - Plumbing Questions / Re: Problems with pipes and running water
 on: Aug 27th, 2020, 5:34pm 
Started by OldHouse | Post by thescruff  
not a lot to add.

Check with the neighbor is a good start.

Post how long it takes to fill a 2 Ltr bucket from the kitchen cold tap, midday, and evening. Maybe an idea to repeat at the bath if it's upstairs.

Do you have storage tanks in the loft or a combination boiler?

Do you have a water meter?


5  DIY Forum / DIY - Plumbing Questions / Re: Problems with pipes and running water
 on: Aug 27th, 2020, 3:52pm 
Started by OldHouse | Post by CWatters  
+1

If there is a restriction (eg due to a partly closed valves) then the static pressure can still be good while the flow rate is poor.

Also worth asking the neighbours what their pressure and flow rate is like.

6  DIY Forum / DIY - Plumbing Questions / Re: Problems with pipes and running water
 on: Aug 27th, 2020, 7:31am 
Started by OldHouse | Post by woodsmith  
First thing is to make sure your stop tap, possibly under the kitchen sink, is turned fully on. Then check the water companies valve which is possibly in the pavement outside.

7  DIY Forum / DIY - Plumbing Questions / Problems with pipes and running water
 on: Aug 26th, 2020, 8:49pm 
Started by OldHouse | Post by OldHouse  
Hi there.  Smiley

We bought a house 11 months ago from the council that was in much need of repair but we were told the plumbing and such were in great condition as it was council owned.

I am not sure the estate agents were being 100% truthful (shocker!!) as we have found that when the taps are running downstairs they completely stop upstairs, both hot and cold, as does the electric shower. If the outside tap is turned on all the taps in the house stop running. If the washing machine is running and water is being fed through the same problem happens and the taps loose pressure and stop completely.

Otherwise the water pressure is pretty good, the hot water heats up pretty fast and so do the radiators.

Does anyone know what the cause may be and is it possible to fix? We haven't put down flooring in the hallway and we are planning on having the bathroom redone very soon so is this a problem that might be fixed before doing this for easy access to pipes and whatnot? There is no evidence of any leaks and the pipes seems to be in a reasonable condition from what I can see.

Thank you

8  DIY Forum / DIY - Alarms, Phones, Aerials, CCTV & Datacomms / Re: BT Versatility Commission System - XML file
 on: Aug 10th, 2020, 3:27pm 
Started by phonejack | Post by oh_oh_seven  
Thank you for the reply.

I did locate the correct line in the xml file and compared it to my old system backup which had assigned a value of 1 to it where as the replacement said 0. Edited and copied the XML file back into the phone system but message was still displaying. Did a backup and it read back as 0 again Sad I even tried doing a soft reset after copying it over without any difference.

One thing I noticed was the firmware in this replacement system seems quite an old version, possibly 802. I have no idea what the original one was at but the replacement doesn't work as well. On the old system when you put a call on hold, the line key would flash so when you went to another extension you could see the line key flashing a pick the call up. On the replacement system the line key only flashes on the original extension and you can't pick it up at another extension. The only way to do it is transfer the call properly. I've checked all the settings and I can't find anything connected with this and/or that is different from the original system backup. I'm wondering if I need a newer version of the firmware flashing into it.

If it's possible would you be able to upload/send me the version of the engineering software you have? I have some firmware files, just not the method to update the system.

Many thanks.


9  DIY Forum / DIY - Alarms, Phones, Aerials, CCTV & Datacomms / Re: BT Versatility Commission System - XML file
 on: Jul 31st, 2020, 6:34am 
Started by phonejack | Post by Lectrician  
Sorry, I haven’t worked on these for ages.  

I have the engineering software, but V2.  Last revision was V5 I think.

I can remember finding the part to change in the XML file, but can’t find my notes any longer.

I recall it used to take several attempts to remove the message via dialling out, but there is a high change BT have killed that service though.

If you uploaded your backup XML, I would of thought that would have cleared the commission message, unless it is tied to the CPU hardware number.  If that’s the case, I would be searching the XML file for the hardware number  Smiley

10  DIY Forum / DIY - Alarms, Phones, Aerials, CCTV & Datacomms / Re: BT Versatility Commission System - XML file
 on: Jul 30th, 2020, 5:20pm 
Started by phonejack | Post by oh_oh_seven  
I'm having the same issue as the original poster.

I installed a secondhand BT Versatility system probably 5 years ago in my garage business and I never saw the Commission System message then.

Recently we had a fault with it that I traced to a faulty motherboard which completely died after I power reset it! I replaced it with one from a spare system that I bought for this scenario. Restored the backup and it seemed to work ok except for the Commission System message on the main extension. I have tried the RACE call but that does nothing other than return you to the same menu.

Having read above that its possible to edit the config XML file, I'm looking to find some more information on that. Can anyone help?

Also do I need the Engineering version of the software to do this? I only have the standard programming version and I would like to get hold of a copy of the Engineering version if someone could send it to me so I can check and reflash the firmware to the latest version.

Many thanks in anticipation Smiley

11  DIY Forum / DIY - Building Questions / Re: Replacing staircase timber vertical support with s
 on: Jul 3rd, 2020, 11:20am 
Started by a413982567 | Post by CWatters  
Its also not just about the vertical load. A thin metal tube might be strong enough to take the vertical load but could buckle if a kid swings on it creating a horizontal load.

12  DIY Forum / DIY - Building Questions / Re: Replacing staircase timber vertical support with s
 on: Jul 2nd, 2020, 7:42am 
Started by a413982567 | Post by woodsmith  
A change like this would need building approval from the local planning department. They will want calculations from a structural engineer who will be able to work out exactly what you need to do. Bear in mind though that they will want this to be made fire resistant, as steel is not as good as wood in a fire. There are special paints available which may be acceptable otherwise you would need to box it in with fire resistant material.

13  DIY Forum / DIY - Building Questions / Replacing staircase timber vertical support with s
 on: Jul 1st, 2020, 10:48am 
Started by a413982567 | Post by a413982567  
Hi

On the middle floor in my townhouse, the staircase to the upper floor is supported with a timber 170mm x 70mm x 2500mm

I am renovating the entire house and the handrails will be steel; I'd like to replace the support with a steel one - it will be slimmer and match the ironmongery.

Can anyone tell me:
- How to calculate the load (that the timber can bear)
- What the equivalent steel CHS would need to be

Thanks in advance

14  DIY Forum / DIY - Plumbing Questions / Re: When OFF doesn't mean OFF.....
 on: Jun 16th, 2020, 11:52pm 
Started by londonman | Post by thescruff  
My assumptions are perfectly correct, yes the cylinder is fed from the tank in the loft via the pipe with the red valve, guess as there's not another valve it could be.

anyway let's hope you have it sorted

15  DIY Forum / DIY - Plumbing Questions / Re: When OFF doesn't mean OFF.....
 on: Jun 16th, 2020, 4:44pm 
Started by londonman | Post by londonman  
You're making assumptions that are incorrect.  For example, the cylinder is fed from a cold tank in the loft.  Historic reasons.

Anyway problem solved.  Hans Grohe are supposed to have fitted backflow preventers inside the shower controller.  They are missing and so they are sending me a set.

16  DIY Forum / DIY - Plumbing Questions / Re: When OFF doesn't mean OFF.....
 on: Jun 16th, 2020, 1:21pm 
Started by londonman | Post by thescruff  
Which is why I asked for more information.

what is the make and model of the pumps.

could still do with an as fitted drawing.

After you turn the shower off, what happens if you turn the power off to the pump, count to 10 and turn it back on again, I get the impression the pump wasn't running before you had a shower so why should it run after you have had a shower.

Have you installed the iBox the right way round, are you using the top or bottom outlets or both,

which model iBox is it and what controller.

ps, don't fit the check valve yet,
where were you thinking of putting it.

You do realize the controller can have a backflow.

The red valve is the cold feed to the cylinder, is anything else connected to it.

My problem with the install.
Hot pump is fed from the cylinder, and the cylinder is fed from the pipe with the red valve, therefore the pump is sucking out of the cylinder and the cold feed.

It cannot suck and blow the same pipe.

How can you pressurise an open vented system.


17  DIY Forum / DIY - Plumbing Questions / Re: When OFF doesn't mean OFF.....
 on: Jun 15th, 2020, 6:12pm 
Started by londonman | Post by londonman  
Good point.  The double-check valve arrives tomorrow which should sort it out.  I say 'should'.

I have four separate plumbed areas in the house - each fed from a manifold via a gatevalve. manifold

The one on the extreme right is feeding the ensuite in question.  There are three 'outlets'...the WC, handbasin and the Hans Grohe shower control.  

So just to recap...all works in the ensuite until I come to turn the shower off.  The shower stops flowing but the hot water pump still keeps running. If I turn off the cold gate valve (extreme right in picture) then the h/w pump stops.  If I turn off the Hans Grohe temperature to its coldest then that (sometimes) will also have the same result.  

So this evening I thought...if my theory is correct then if I adjust the Hans Grohe temperature control to, say, mid-point, turn off that gate valve then if I flush the WC then the H/W pump should kick in ...but it doesn't !

I really have no idea now what's going on !   AllI know is that I have no leaks !


18  DIY Forum / DIY - Plumbing Questions / Re: When OFF doesn't mean OFF.....
 on: Jun 15th, 2020, 10:39am 
Started by londonman | Post by thescruff  
High-risk Legionella.

19  DIY Forum / DIY - Plumbing Questions / Re: When OFF doesn't mean OFF.....
 on: Jun 14th, 2020, 10:07pm 
Started by londonman | Post by londonman  
Well, I'm not an expert on pumps.  You're right in that if one pump is running then the water must be going somewhere.  My conclusion is that it's flowing back through the cold water pump into the clean tanks.  Cos there isn't any leak anywhere.

Because you mentioned that the pump should be protected by a double-check valve (it isn't...none of them are..we have five....all here before I came) then it must be feasible for water to be forced back through a pump.

20  DIY Forum / DIY - Plumbing Questions / Re: When OFF doesn't mean OFF.....
 on: Jun 14th, 2020, 10:58am 
Started by londonman | Post by thescruff  
If you say so lol.

So one or more pumps is not turning off?

Where is the water going?

21  DIY Forum / DIY - Plumbing Questions / Re: When OFF doesn't mean OFF.....
 on: Jun 13th, 2020, 9:54pm 
Started by londonman | Post by londonman  
I can assure you that the only design fault is the Hans Grohe iBox.  The rest of the house has a multitude of mixer taps, thermostatic shower controls etc.  All work perfectly well.  When you turn them off, they do turn off.  Cold and hot both pressurise up and the pumps stop.

The i Box has no such luxury.  The only on/off is on the output of the mixer.  So hot and cold circuits commune together quite happily because they are nit turned off.  I can understand that the iBox will work perfectly well if it's installed in a house with, say, a twin Stuart Turner pump because both hot and cold will be of equal pressure...more or less.

But if there is an imbalance between the two of sufficient magnitude then whichever circuit has the higher pressure will force back into the other.

It's simply a duff design and I'm surprised that Hans Grohe have designed it this way.

22  DIY Forum / DIY - Plumbing Questions / Re: When OFF doesn't mean OFF.....
 on: Jun 13th, 2020, 9:38pm 
Started by londonman | Post by thescruff  
System Design fault, usually a secondary circuit.

If either or both pumps are not pressurizing you have an open circuit, so the first task is to find where the water is going other than around and around.

Both pumps should be protected by double check valves.

Ideal world an as fitting drawing, please.

23  DIY Forum / DIY - Plumbing Questions / When OFF doesn't mean OFF.....
 on: Jun 13th, 2020, 7:16am 
Started by londonman | Post by londonman  
...or why a Hans Grohe iBox is such a silly design.

So, you learn something new every day.  Fitting a new ensuite as part of the whole house refurb.

Finally, all systems go. Time for a shower.  

Scenario...our house has two separate pumps for cold and hot water.   The cold pump (historic) is in the cellar.  The hot water pump is new and installed upstairs next to the HW cylinder.  I can hear it when it kicks in and once the hot water is pressurised, it stops.

So into t'shower, turn it on (separate control) and wallow. Have shower.  Turn it off.  Only ....only ..

only the H/W pump does not stop. Thinks...this should not be happening. I've tested it before it was all tiled up.  There are no leaks. It should not be doing this. Switch off the H/W feed to the ensuite at the manifold.  Pump stops.  Sh*t. I must have a leak somewhere.  I have an inspection hatch.  No leak.  WTF ?

Engage brain. Where can it be pumping to?  'cos it is - otherwise it would pressurise up and stop.

Back up the cold water feed ?  Surely not ?  Switch off cold feed at the manifold and the H/W pump stops.

And that is when I realised that OFF on this Hans Grohe cock-a-mamie iBox is only off as far as the shower head is concerned.  Both cold and hot feeds remain 'live' relative to each other and so if there is an imbalance in pressure then one pumps into the other.  The 'fix' is to turn off the temp control on the iBox but what a faff...annoying, to be sure....but even then there is still a slight bleed of water through back into the cold water pipes and so the H/W pump kicks in...on and off.

I think a checkvalve in the cold feed will sort it.

24  DIY Forum / DIY - Plumbing Questions / Re: Thermostatic Valve Leak
 on: Jun 7th, 2020, 10:38pm 
Started by Custard | Post by Custard  
OK - will do - thanks again!

25  DIY Forum / DIY - Plumbing Questions / Re: Thermostatic Valve Leak
 on: Jun 7th, 2020, 7:10pm 
Started by Custard | Post by thescruff  
A good chance the string will do the job, as I said don't overdo it though.

If you wanted to try it first wind it around about 4 times under the O ring, and see what it does.

26  DIY Forum / DIY - Plumbing Questions / Re: Thermostatic Valve Leak
 on: Jun 7th, 2020, 10:19am 
Started by Custard | Post by Custard  
Thanks Thescruff for your advice. I had already ordered the Locktight string from your previous post (coincidentally from Bearing King too!)

Since it's such a tiny leak, do you think the string will hold OK or is it crucial to go to the expense of getting a pro to drain down system/replace the TRV etc?

27  DIY Forum / DIY - Plumbing Questions / Re: Thermostatic Valve Leak
 on: Jun 6th, 2020, 8:45pm 
Started by Custard | Post by thescruff  
It looks like you have 2 O rings seals 1 on the shaft and 1 in the white cap.

Get the small loctite 55 string and follow the instructions on the thread of the white cap, do not put too much one 3-4 turns should be plenty.

You can buy it at most builders and diy outlets.

https://www.bearing-king.co.uk/bearing/loctite-55-pipe-sealing-cord-50m/9058?gcl...

28  DIY Forum / DIY - Plumbing Questions / Re: Thermostatic Valve Leak
 on: Jun 6th, 2020, 3:11pm 
Started by Custard | Post by Custard  
Thank you for the reply. I'm not too sure I feel confident to drain down the system. I think that might be better left to the pros when they let them out of lock-down. So the Locktight thread string might be a temporary solution until then - thanks for the tip.

I did completely remove the plastic nut as you can see balanced to the left on the pipe in the image below. I don't quite get the mechanism but absolutely no water comes out when it's like this. I guess the valve is shut when it's like this?


Image 3

29  DIY Forum / DIY - Plumbing Questions / Re: Thermostatic Valve Leak
 on: Jun 6th, 2020, 12:15am 
Started by Custard | Post by thescruff  
The only way you could possibly stop that is to loosen the nut a couple of turns and wind a couple of wraps of Loctite 55 string under the nut and tighten it back up

Don't overdo it and remember the system is live so all sorts of things could go wrong.

Get the small loctite 55 string and store it in a cool place for future use.

The best plan is still to drain it out.

30  DIY Forum / DIY - Plumbing Questions / Re: Thermostatic Valve Leak
 on: Jun 5th, 2020, 1:36pm 
Started by Custard | Post by Custard  
Apologies, I might not have been clear. The water is coming from between the white plastic item and the brass hex nut. On the image I have indicated a VERY tiny droplet (you may have to click on it to make it larger to see) that forms on the ledge of the protruding triangular bit of the hex nut.

I unscrewed the white bit, cleaned up the rubber grommet inside and the top of the brass hex nut but wonder if a bit of something applied between the two surfaces might help (silicon? jointing compound - no?). There is no branding or make on the valve I'm afraid.

Thank you again

Image 2