Hi Satman68 and welcome to the site

A1
With T&G you have to glue it and it will take longer to do the job.  It is a cheaper option and i would advise going for a click version.  If you have to take the floor up for any reason it is a lot easier.  You can get a mid range version which is a click but once it's clicked you should not pull it back open.  I have found this to be a bit of a pain when your cutting the boards to fit certain areas because you really need to cut it right first time.  If you can afford it go for the one which you can click apart if you need to.

A2
Again you find the more expensive versions more hard wearing.  It should say what it is suitable for and a guarantee should come with the product.  Make sure you follow the guidlines so the guarantee is viable.

A3
Yes, with it being a hall way i would run it down the hall and not across because it wont look right.  Start where you have the straightest run and get the first couple of runs down first.

A4
You only have to take 1 length of skirting off when you are leaving all the skirtings on and cutting the skirtings with say a buscuit jointer, to slide the lam under it.  You then need to take the one length off to put the last board down.

A5
Yes you will have to cut the bottom of the arch's etc.  Just a cheap saw with no back plate will do fine.  Screwfix sell one which will do the job ok

A6
Yes, again this is an easier option.  Make sure you leave a good expansion gap and get quite a large quadrant type beading so you can leave a good gap.  This is then fixed to the skirting boards and not the floor which allows the floor to move.

Think ive covered everything

mmmm i cant think of anything else that would cut the bottom of the skirting boards whilst there on.

The only other options is to use the cover beading
or
Take all the skirtings off and lay the floor and put new skirtings back on.  If the skirtings are painted then s/wood skirting is really cheap.

Yes i have to agree with Big All there

Quadrant painted skirting colour is a good option

the trouble with the correct beading is it comes in relativly short lengths an costs a bomb about £1.50
a mtr  where as  quadrant is less than half that and
comes in much longer lenths especialy at wood yards

Thanks again m8s.  I think I will go for the 'removing the skirting board' method as it seems that will provide me with the best finish.  I know how it will be, I will go the beading method, finish everything and then look back and wish I had taken the skirting boards off!!  It might take longer but the finish will be better.

Satman68

Thanks Big_All for that tip.

are you bying th instilation kit or not


fret saw    jig saw optional [but speeds things updramaticly]right angle could be hand saw[combination sqaure would be better] mitre saw or box for skirting
no nails or whatever you want to fix skirting with
work mate or something simmilar to lean on

click type no glue required
other sort glue

spade bit for plumbing holes ect

any thing ive forgoten i or someone wi add

Ok I have visied B&* where they have the 'loc' system from 'floormaster'  is this ok?  It says it is reusable, probably meaning you can 'click' and 'unclick' the floor sections.

Can anyone advise?

Cheers

Satman68

Try to get a hold of the pipe covers for around the heating pipes in the floor, finishes it of a treat. 8)

oh i almost forgot!!!. when cutting round pipes measure for the hole and drill it then cut the board across the width and you will get a perfect seam and a neat hole!!!. ive done this on load of jobs and its never failed!!

[quote author=jimthejoiner  link=1081786354/15#19 date=1083185570]oh i almost forgot!!!. when cutting round pipes measure for the hole and drill it then cut the board across the width and you will get a perfect seam and a neat hole!!!. ive done this on load of jobs and its never failed!! [/quote]

You lost me with that explanation I'm afraid! I was okay up until the bit of "drill it", but cutting across the width confused me. I thought you always tended to cut laminate flooring to length across the width?

Andrew

Yep. That's the way I took it too.

I think i get you.
If ive unserstood you right, wont there be no t&g on that joint then where you have cut across the board and if it was walked on would dip ???

i would start with one t&g in the center on one pipe as jimthejoiner would,then for the otherside drill the hole,then mark 45 degrees from hole back to wall twice.giving a triangle piece that will glue in tight (no saw drafts).
does this make sense!!

Hey guys
done a lam floors before which was simple 1 door, square room no probs. Now gotta a room to do, room has 4 doors (2 on each opposite wall) - whats easiest direction to run floor ie lengths run into door or at right angles to door - I've got the choice. What do you reckon??

I would run them at right angles to the doors.  You just cut the boards off in length up to the threshold this way, the other way you are having to cut the boards down the length when you come to the final run which is a bit more tricky

wouldnt you lay the floor ing length wise along the length of the  floor ( opposed to  width of floor)  irelevant of the  doors?

windows are a big factor here as the flooring needs too run along so the joints dont flash up!!!!! regardless of doors

Good point Jim about the window.

 Yes i had a picture of a square room as well

Same here Jim, anything parallel to the light source (window) will throw shadows making a slight error look carp. In a hallway the boards should run square to the door which leads the view in making the hall look longer & inviting.
Now you know how to put off door to door salesmen.
Lay the floor sideways to make it seem smaller & not worth their bother.

Hi guys

thanks for the advice - yeh its a square room near enough - doors on opp walls - window along another wall - with all those doors thought it would be easier to run floor 90 deg to doors, hadnt considered light source.
Still might do it that way cos i think it  will be a bugger laying parallel to doors, cutting boards down so as floor can go into doorway on both sides of room also its not the brightest of rooms

cheers

make a joint in the doorway if required
slide under one side
mark and cut slide under other side click together
most clicks will stillwork flat just need more
gentle carressing with a block and or hook
and hammer