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Ask The Trades › DIY Forum › Carpentry Questions › Timber

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Timber (Read 16266 times)

woodsmith Global Moderator Trade Member Author Offline Posts: 4395 Total Thanks: 135 For This Post: 0 Gender: Trade: Joiner	Re: Timber Reply #17 - Jun 22^nd, 2004, 11:04pm Greg I've written a few articles for the woodworker. Fixed shelves tomorrow, sliding dovetails for strength; it is 2 metres tall with only 20mm sides and likely to carry a lot of weight. For adjustable shelves you can use pinned supports or for an easy life you can use book case strips part number 11803 from screwfix
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greg GDPR opt-out Total Thanks: 135 For This Post: 0	Re: Timber Reply #18 - Jun 22^nd, 2004, 11:05pm Ok then - will have to look out for him in my copy
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greg GDPR opt-out Total Thanks: 135 For This Post: 0	Re: Timber Reply #19 - Jun 22^nd, 2004, 11:07pm Keith, i plan to make a jig up for the router for use with the pins - would buy one - but the trend one is quite small if i remember correctly - does anyone else make them
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woodsmith Global Moderator Trade Member Author Offline Posts: 4395 Total Thanks: 135 For This Post: 0 Gender: Trade: Joiner	Re: Timber Reply #20 - Jun 22^nd, 2004, 11:21pm Greg unless you plan to make a lot of bookcases it's probably not worth your while buying a jig, making one should not be too dificult. To be honest I often just use a drill with a lip and spur bit.
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greg GDPR opt-out Total Thanks: 135 For This Post: 0	Re: Timber Reply #21 - Jun 22^nd, 2004, 11:30pm I do have a lot of books Yeah should be fairly easy to make, i was thinking a bit of 3/4 ply, center line drilled at intervals on the drill press with a forstner bit for a suitably sized router guide and a pin type system like worktop jigs to locate on the book case stiles
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woodsmith Global Moderator Trade Member Author Offline Posts: 4395 Total Thanks: 135 For This Post: 0 Gender: Trade: Joiner	Re: Timber Reply #22 - Jun 23^rd, 2004, 8:13am Greg that sounds very smart, can you make me one too You could use MDF instead of ply, I use it for jigs as there are no splinters and it is a very smooth surface.
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jasonB GDPR opt-out Total Thanks: 135 For This Post: 0	Re: Timber Reply #23 - Jun 23^rd, 2004, 6:34pm Greg Have a look at this company's web site, they can supply small amounts of hard and softwoods, i use then quite a lot as they are only 10mins away. Wouldn't recommend them for panel products though. You can download their catalogue which shows different hardwoods & veneers. www.slhardwoods.co.uk Jason
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greg GDPR opt-out Total Thanks: 135 For This Post: 0	Re: Timber Reply #24 - Jun 23^rd, 2004, 9:17pm MDF probably better Keith now you mention it, wont have the hollows often found in ply Ill check the web site thanks Jason
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greg GDPR opt-out Total Thanks: 135 For This Post: 0	Re: Timber Reply #25 - Jun 24^th, 2004, 6:41pm Ok to expand this a little further then, say i wanted to make a bookcase from oak - i phone the timber yard and tell themi want some oak - what info would they typically expect from me
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jasonB

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Re: Timber
Reply #26 - Jun 24^th, 2004, 8:19pm

Lets make a few assumptions first

You will plane the boards yourself
The bookcase will be 7ft tall, 3ft 6" wide 12" deep carcase with 6No 10" deep shelves
All boards 1" nominal thickness
Kiln dried american white oak (Square edge)

This would require the following

Sides 2No @ 84" x 12" nominal
Top 1No @ 42"x 12"
Bottom 1No @ 42" x 12"
Shelves 6No @ 40" x 10"

Unless you want to pay a high premium and have a wide surface planner it will be best to glue up all the panels from two boards. Also allow extra length for planner snipe say 6" per item.

I would ask for 6No 8ft boards 6" wide x 1" thick (sides, top & bot) and 6No 8ft boards 5" wide x 1" thick(shelves) plus any timber for skirting/base and cornice, not forgetting a sheet of 6mm oak veneered MDF for the back.

Expect to be supplied with boards that may be bigger than you ask for as the supplier will give you material to get what you want out of with the minimum of waste ie some may be 9ft long while others may be an inch or so wider(you will be charged for the total volume of oak supplied). If it were English oak I would allow more for waste and waney edges.

This is also explained somewhere on the site that I posted the link for.
http://www.slhardwoods.com/looseboards.asp

Hope this helps, Jason

« Last Edit: Jun 25^th, 2004, 7:24am by jasonB »

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Re: Timber
Reply #27 - Jun 24^th, 2004, 8:54pm

Hi All

I get my timber from a chap around the corner from my workshop.
He has got a large unit full to the brim with "Factory Rejects " ie. Hardwood door Splines @ 60p per length. These are 2 mtrs in length with a rebate for a pane of glass but once this is ripped off you end up with a 3 x 2 x 2 mtr of planed and fine sanded kiln dried hardwood. Not bad for the price. He sells his softwood at 50p per strip( usually around 1.5 mtr lengths , all widths/depths)

So not only do I get cheap timber but also do my bit for the environment because what he cant store gets burnt by the pallet load by the factories.

If anybody wants info please get in touch.

By the way , I live in Lowestoft and he can deliver as far as Ipswich.

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