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Sockets for workshop (Read 16819 times)
LSpark
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Re: Sockets for workshop
Reply #17 - Jul 9th, 2004, 3:37pm
 
Well this trunking runs verticle from a suspended celing space, so it comes down right on top of the board, and couplers and bush will be weird like that, unless i run it down and then into a corner and couple from the horizontal peiece of trunking.
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« Last Edit: Jul 9th, 2004, 3:38pm by LSpark »  
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tellondon
Re: Sockets for workshop
Reply #18 - Jul 9th, 2004, 3:52pm
 
Run it down the wall then tee into a horizontal piece across the top of the board, then as Lectrician says either use 2" bushes with either couplers or lock rings or cut a oval slot out with paxoline sandwiched in between the trunking and the top of the board
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LSpark
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Re: Sockets for workshop
Reply #19 - Jul 9th, 2004, 3:57pm
 
yep sounds about right, just sure ive seen T-Joints that fit onto trunking to alow the cables to spread at the board. thanks guys  Tongue
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tellondon
Re: Sockets for workshop
Reply #20 - Jul 9th, 2004, 3:59pm
 
Yep you can get tee joints with a flange so you can spread the cable out into the horizontal trunking
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LSpark
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Re: Sockets for workshop
Reply #21 - Jul 9th, 2004, 4:02pm
 
sweet  Grin
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Lectrician
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Re: Sockets for workshop
Reply #22 - Jul 9th, 2004, 8:35pm
 
Yea, Tee in to a horizontal length, or right angle it to a horixontal length.

You can buy the bends, or fabricate them using pop rivets. (best to ensure if you fabricate, that the trunking has one side continuous, eg, uncut.  This ensures continuity).

If you buy bends, ensure you use atleast one earth link across the join, the trunking manufacturers make links to fit where theie screw holes are.

Paxoline is hard to get nowadays, and couplers with 2 bushes are a better job.

Dont forget to supp bond the trunking from the fuseboard Smiley

And use round head screws to fix the trunking home, not counter sunk Smiley

And, not many people seem to realise, if you cut the trunking lid, and the cut comes in a bad place, leaving the trunking lid buckles to far from the end.....you can get additional buckles that you can drill in Smiley
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The_Trician
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Re: Sockets for workshop
Reply #23 - Jul 9th, 2004, 9:12pm
 
Flanges? We used to call em bellmouths - just cut a big slot in the top of the dist board with a jigsaw - 2" wide and however long the width of the top of the board will allow, then buy a 'bellmouth' or flange and bolt ot to the dist board top. Bring your trunking straight onto the bellmouth. if it's 2"x2" then you can get a bell mouth which starts at 2" and widens out to accomadate your cables. Just ensure that you maintain good continuity.

I always run a seperate earth in any case, regardless of whether its steel or plastic stuff.

TT
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Lectrician
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Re: Sockets for workshop
Reply #24 - Jul 10th, 2004, 9:08am
 
Dont know if they make bellmouth flanges anymore, I think you may have to take some metalwork classes Smiley
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LSpark
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Re: Sockets for workshop
Reply #25 - Jul 10th, 2004, 12:52pm
 
It's no problem, chap from CEF has found me one now, it's as trician described and same as what tell/lec said I think, secures into the dist board and then secures to a verticle section of trunking.

cheers
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« Last Edit: Jul 10th, 2004, 12:52pm by LSpark »  
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