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Tiling around sockets (Read 17872 times)
ncarron
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Tiling around sockets
Jul 8th, 2005, 11:06am
 
HI,  I am finishing a tiling job but am having trouble with teh sockets. Firdt problem is that when screwing teh cosket in, teh retaining wing is ringed..i.e teh screw is not catching. The box is a msonary box in a plsterboard wall (cowboy electrician did not use dry lining boxes) and cannot be removed. I was thinking of just filling teh whole box with filler or expanable foam and then just screwing the socket into it...Any Suggestions..

Second problem is that the tiles are 2 inch square. The last full tiles are aound 1 inch form the socket so this means teh next ones to be cut need to be about 1 inch wide to allow teh socket to home in. Problem is taht around teh socket box in teh wall is badly damaged and very little left for the tiles to stick to.  Again I was thinking about filling in with polyfilla, have the wires poking out and continue like that...anll suggestions welcome....

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Lurch
Re: Tiling around sockets
Reply #1 - Jul 8th, 2005, 11:14am
 
I'm sure someone will move this post for you soon, but in the meantime.....

Filling the box full of filler is a bad idea and extremely bad practice. The use of a masonry box, (I assume you mean a metal knockout box), is not rough when used in the circumstances you describe.

What I would probably do in your circumstances, mainly because this would be the easiest way, would be to remove the box and fit a new one so this sorts out your screw problem. Once you've done this, use filler\plaster to fill the wall around the box, (not in it), so you can tile right up to the edge of the box. The finish on this bit of plastering obviously doesn't have to be wonderful as you're tiling over it so as long as there's something there then that'll do.
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ncarron
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Re: Tiling around sockets
Reply #2 - Jul 8th, 2005, 11:29am
 
There be the problem...the boxes are wedged. nailed and screwed in...to take out would involve damaging a lot of (expensive) tiles and as the plasterboard is badly damaged, the new drylining boxes grip wings would have nothing to grip to......I have also thought about Gluing the sockets onto the tiles. One is a cooker switch so there will be no pull / push force on that one. The other will be rarely used double socket so I may get away with tah as well........damn electrician...
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Lurch
Re: Tiling around sockets
Reply #3 - Jul 8th, 2005, 11:45am
 
I'm confused, thought you said you hadn't tiled around the box, so how will removing it damage tiles?

And also, I didn't say use a dryline box, I said replace the metal box that's there like for like then fill the gaps between the edge of it and the existing plasterboard for you to tile onto.

Glueing the sockets on to the tiles is not a good idea for various reasons. Mainly, it's rough, also it's going to mean the if it ever needs to be removed for any reaons it'll be a rip some tiles off job and there's probably some more reasons, but I'd never do it.
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Chaddy
Re: Tiling around sockets
Reply #4 - Jul 8th, 2005, 5:32pm
 
Based on your question and theories.  think you would be better getting someone who knows what they are doing in to sort this out. UndecidedI

you don't sound confident in what you are doing.
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Lurch
Re: Tiling around sockets
Reply #5 - Jul 8th, 2005, 8:12pm
 
[quote author=Chaddy  link=1120822026/0#4 date=1120840342]Based on your question and theories.  think you would be better getting someone who knows what they are doing in to sort this out. [/quote]
Yep, that generally sends them away........
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JerryD
Re: Tiling around sockets
Reply #6 - Jul 8th, 2005, 8:56pm
 
and get a spell checker  Grin
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Chaddy
Re: Tiling around sockets
Reply #7 - Jul 8th, 2005, 10:29pm
 
Just trying to help Grin Grin
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scotspark
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Re: Tiling around sockets
Reply #8 - Jul 14th, 2005, 7:01pm
 
can you not get a 3.5mm tap and rethread the socket box?????????????
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brown to red and blue to f****&&&&ommited!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
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santacruz
Re: Tiling around sockets
Reply #9 - Jul 14th, 2005, 7:11pm
 
It would be great to help this guy out and it does sound like the typical situation we all find ourselves in (trades not talking to each other on the jobs).

But I am having a real problem getting to grips with what his problem is - not being rude mate and I suffer from typo's and you may be dyslexic can you be more precise about the problem(s) please. Most of these tiles and sockets things can be sorted out quite easily.

(An electrician)
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Lurch
Re: Tiling around sockets
Reply #10 - Jul 14th, 2005, 9:40pm
 
[quote author=scotspark  link=1120822026/0#8 date=1121364067]can you not get a 3.5mm tap and rethread the socket box????????????? [/quote]

Not when the lug on the box is bigger than 3.5mm. My tap doesn't add metal to big holes. Wink
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JerryD
Re: Tiling around sockets
Reply #11 - Jul 14th, 2005, 10:46pm
 
Why not try a 4mm tap and a 4mm screw?
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Lurch
Re: Tiling around sockets
Reply #12 - Jul 14th, 2005, 11:12pm
 
I don't think the OP really cares what we think as he seems intent on bodgery. Sensible suggestions seem to irate most people and makes them never return to the site, (on all forums, not just this one).
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JerryD
Re: Tiling around sockets
Reply #13 - Jul 15th, 2005, 10:57pm
 
I think you're right  Undecided
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santacruz
Re: Tiling around sockets
Reply #14 - Jul 15th, 2005, 11:01pm
 
What the heck are we meant to say then?  Undecided

I know GripFill the socket in, hand in your bill, get paid and run away? We could rename the web site as Bodgit & Scarper (no that's already been done, where is he by the way?)
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Chaddy
Re: Tiling around sockets
Reply #15 - Jul 15th, 2005, 11:03pm
 
It must have been a wind up.......i mean fill the patress with foam ha ha my sides have split Grin
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sailfishoney
Re: Tiling around sockets
Reply #16 - Aug 30th, 2005, 5:39am
 
You need to do the right thing. dont you'all have drywall there. if you do put a new section of board there.and make sure use cut out hole for METAL box and do not use any plaster on it tile right to dry wall or green board or durrock. make sure it is the same thickness as the board it will but up to. If there is nothing for tile to stick to then you do not a good foundation and will have problems down the road. you will have to cut enough board out that you will be able to screw to the studs. hope this helps.
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