Wolf will be along shortly......................  

You should be able to just give a light sand, for a key, then undercoat/topcoat. Some factory finished pine has a wax coat which will resist paint, in which case you would need to sand that off completely. Best to try a small area.

[quote author=corablimey  link=1144344215/0#4 date=1144429105]
, and slightly sand down between coats. [/quote]

i tried that , and got the sand paper stuck to my jersey!!!!

as W/S states, test first, in an obscure place!!! as some factory applied Varn@#hes have certain catalysts added to penetrate deep into the wood, so appliing a piant finish can go horribly wrong!!!

so test is the name of the game here.....

Bloody varn@#hers!!!!!

[quote author=corablimey  link=1144344215/0#4 date=1144429105]If its been varnished you need to sand it down and get most of it off, not too smooth, but to get a key, and you might have to put a wood primer on it, and if the knots havent been treated, the knot them first, cause they will bleed after a year or so into the paint, then undercoat and gloss etc.
[/quote]


I thought that if the timber was varnished and you didn't sand through to the knot that it could be overpainted without knotting as the varnish has sealed the knot ???

I could be wrong , its not something I do often, and perhaps I've just been lucky

Thanks hamilton, thats exactly what I meant, cause if the varnish is sanded off the knots and they are bare, they would have to be knotted prior to painting.

My pet hate is going in to a job to repaint doors for example and see that whoever has painted them before didnt even bother to knot them, and they have bled through  

Decorators are very agreeable people woody. Aint that right cora.  

Once you have seen the sign to Snodland, you never forget it.  

The Isle of Sheppey Wot a 'ole .They should blow up the crossing to that place and make it into a prison ilsand