Hi,

a) Downlights - the connector blocks should all be covered with special blocks and nit just left exposed

Choc box should be used not just left exposed but in saying that I would have expected crimps and JB's instead of terminal block

Is the above true? Yes

b) Earthing...we have 10mm Earthing going into the main consumer unit, he said this was not enough....however reading on Net I was under the impression 6mm would suffice for majority of domestic purposes?

Main earth 16mm
Main Bonding 10mm to gas and water

Certain exceptions depends on earthing system

c) Water and GAS - what earthing should these have?

d) MCB / RCD - I only have ONE rcd in the CU, and thats for the underfloor heating in the bathroom. the rest are MCB's...is this an issue? I was under the mpression RCD were for outside feeds and bathroom feeds?

e) We have an extension at side of the house....which joins the side of the kitchen. The wiring for sockets, Cooker, Extractor are all on the same ring as the extension and have to be replaced.....so basically my kitchen is on two separate rings...is this an issue?

If clearly identified that sockets are on two rings for kitchen it doesnt have to be an issue.

f) Stainless Steel Switches - Earthing - the casing of the switches which are embedded in the wall are earthed..but there is NO earthing cable going into the switch plate\conntector........is this a problem? As this other psuedo electrician said its stainless steel so should b earthed!??!
Is this correct?

Yes metal switch plates should have the earth going to the earth terminal on the back of the switch plate then to the KO box.

Can someone clarify where and why you would need a RCD?

The regs say that RCD should be used on all sockets that may reasonably be expexted to supply equipment out doors.  Have you got a split load board?

Thats my thinking

Thanks guys!! I really appreciate both of your posts!

My Electrcians needs some words tomorrow!

I just called him and he said the main Earth cable is 20mm and the Gas and Water 10mm...but he said hell check

He said that hell take a look at the steel switches...but I also asked him about the Steel double sockets!...as they also nede to be earthed

A final question...

Ultraspark - You said the Earth should be going at the back of teh swtich and then into the KO Box?....Could you make that more Idiot averse.....sorry!....lol.....Right now the earth is screwed into the casing of the socket.......so are you saying this should go in the earth terminal at the back of the swtich and then another earth from that earth terminal to the casing box?....KO?...Im assuming is the casing box?

K

Scott

Bit confused....if its ONE cable within the 3 core.....so the earth....how can it go into both?.....surely id need two pieces?...or, as expected, Im being thick!

yes im afraid your being thick  

earth wire - sleeved if twin and earth wiring to terminal one(backbox) to terminal 2 with short link (metal front plate)

however, it dosnt amtter what way arround its done

however, to confuse matters further you can take the earth from the twin and earth - or any other cable(exept 3 types of cable your unlikly to find doing the job in domestic) can go straight to the switch/ sockert and not need to earth the backbox as the need was removed for metal backboxes(k/o) with one fixed lug

again if its a metal surface box - like found in garages and workshops ect then the backbox must be earthed as it can be touched(basicly)

cable comes in the following sizes

1-(commonly lighting)
1.5-(commonly lighting)
2.5-(usualy power)
4- (usualy power and water heaters/very small showers, sheds garages ect) - ALSO IF ITS A SINGLE GREEN/YELLOW THEN THIS IS THE SIZE USED FOR CROSSBONDING baqthroom which most electricians dont understand and do it wrong)
6 - small showers and cookers/general power ect
10 - showers/cookers (ALSO WHEN IF ITS A SINGLE GREEN / YELLOW CABLE THIS SIZE OF CABLE IS USED FOR THE GAS/WATER BONDS)
16 - meter tails on small houses/flats and submains ALSO WHEN IF ITS A SINGLE GREEN / YELLOW CABLE THIS SIZE OF CABLE IS USED FOR THE MAIN EARTH TAIL
25 - Main tails on larger houses
35 - VERY VERY VERY large houses/long runs - very rare in a house situation
50 - never ever seen it in a domestic setup
and so on

obviously its a bit more involved that above and you can use smaller/larger cables and may need to use larger cables determind via some nice algerbra  :-D

but roughly above is what you could expect in a domestic
commercial is completely different but domestic is pretty much no brainer wiring

as for an rcd -
an rcd must be fitted on all sockets that may reasonably be expected to supply portable equipment outdoors
so basicly, all downstairs sockets and kitchen if its downstairs, cooker point if its downstairs and has a socket on, plus shed sockets / garage sockets / outside sockets(obviously!)

its handy to have on all sockets and showers because of the added safety but preferably not all on one - imagine the fun of finding what circuit in a bank of 20 on one rcd is faulty with no lights....

i completely disagree that its not retrospectivly enforcable in that BS7671 Is not a statutory  doccument and is only ued by everyone because it can be used to "cover ones backside" in a court of law should the poopie hit the fan and somone gets hert - if you comply with it 100% then its not actuly your fault.
it is however again different in commercial and public buildings since EAWR and HSE can and do insist on electrical maintenance and ive yet to meet a contractor who wont follow it and makes his own regs up....

anyway, back to the rcd, imagine when you sell your house or somone conducts a pir for your insurance and thers not one, whilst he cant make you have one(anymore than domesticly he can make you follow BS7671(Above mentioned arse covering doccument)) however is he going to sign your certificate and put his balls on the line to say all is well? ofcourse not!!! and you will have to have something done then or have no insurance or if selling have money nocked off by the buyer


and the moral of the story - do it by the book, the agro associated with not doing so is completely not worth it in time expence and liability!

ss

Hi,

Supplymentary bonding to Knock Outs (Back Boxes) and accessories.

Socket Outlets

Usually wired using Twin and Earth.  You take the earth wire to the earth terminal on the socket outlet first.  Then using what I call a 'fly back' earth to the back box.

The same for metal decorative light switches.

Just remember outlet first back box second


This is the prefered method of bonding accessories and back box

Hi Kp1512,

Yes the fly back is a seperate peice of earth wire (with green and yellow sleeving)

I think you're gettin there!

Cheers

Another Question! lol

RCD - it appears that its advised that you should have

Bathroom, Downstairs Sockets, Kitchen on RCDs at the minimum.

I am also led to beleive that ONE rcd takes up two slots on the CU (not sure if slots is the right answer!) for the above to occur, aside from getting a new CU, what other options have I got to ensure there all covered?

Im asking as I think my NICEIC Electrician has really messed up!!..I mean HTF do you wire a Steel Switch and NOT earth the switch plate?...Why didnt he know that the earth going into the CU needs to be 16mm?!!

Its now emerged that he hasnt bludy put in a CU big enough for the house!!!!

Oh, one thing....what is the going rate for putting in a CU (swap) for a 10-12 way CU in East London?....just to see if he really has taken the p*ss

The_Trician wrote on Oct 28^th, 2006, 1:09pm:


Yup, very true indeed.