Using 6 core alarm cable from panel to PIR, you connect the alarm pair in the PIR to a spare zone in the panel, removing the link that will be shorting those terminals out.  The tamper pair will go in series with the other zones on the global tamper inside the panel.  The power pair will pickup from the 12v +/- inside the panel.

Colour choice is yours to be honest, there is no standard, and all alarm co's use different color schemes - best to stick to whats been done at yours though to be consistent.

Remove mains power from panel to be safe inside the panel when working, but leave battery connected.  No need to power down.  The alarm will sound when removing the panels cover, unless you enter engineer mode on the keypad (but doubt you know the engineers code?)

Once wired, you would need to configure the zone.  You more than likely want it as default, so you may find it is already configured for your needs.  If so, you wont need to access the engineer menu to change anything.

   

The RL "Remote LED" should be usually left unconnected. If you connect it to a perm 12+ source, the walk test LED on the detector will be disabled (required on a graded alarm to prevent people from "testing out" where the detector can see).

The LA "Latch" should be usually left unconnected.  It is used if you have no spare zones and are tagging this detector onto a zone with another detector.  It allows one of the detectors to "latch" their LED indicator on, so out of the two detectors on the same zone, you know which one was triggered.  You wont require this.

So, leave RL and LA empty.