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https://www.askthetrades.co.uk/cgi-bin/yabb/YaBB.pl DIY Forum >> Carpentry Questions >> cladding https://www.askthetrades.co.uk/cgi-bin/yabb/YaBB.pl?num=1182301692 Message started by newbie on Jun 20^th, 2007, 2:08am

Title: cladding
Post by newbie on Jun 20^th, 2007, 2:08am

Hello to all ;D, i am new to this website so please be gentle ;).

I am replacing a section of my cladded fence, and also adding a gate.
Could you advise me to what screws would be best for fixing the cladding to the fence and to the gate?
Could you also advise me to what fixing would be best for fixing the gate post (6" by 6") to a retaining wall?
Finally could you tell me if it would be ok to use PAR timber for this?

Sorry if these seem like smple qestions but i just dont want to get the wrong materials.

Title: Re: cladding
Post by woodsmith on Jun 20^th, 2007, 7:40am

Hi, welcome to the forum.

I'd use stainless screws, there is a big range available and they aren't too expensive look HERE

A 6x6 gatepost would really need half of it burying in a big hole, why not use 6x3 and that is easier to screw to the wall with coach screws?

PAR won't last 5 minutes outside, you need treated tanalised timber, best to get it from a builders merchant or a specialist fencing supplies merchant.

Hope this helps, otherwise ask away ;D

Keith

Title: Re: cladding
Post by big_all on Jun 20^th, 2007, 12:18pm

heeelllooo newbie and welcome ;D ;D ;D
you may regret your choice of name by the time you reach 50 posts ::) ::) ;)

pretty much what keith says ;D :D

would also like to add treated timber is cheaper and around 6mm bigger for any given size as planeing it smooth and flat removes around 6mm

what size is the gate going to be !!

are you going for a closed design for secutity or a more open desighn!!!

and before attaching anything to a wall you need to satisfy yourself its up to the job but you know that anyway ;D ;)

Title: Re: cladding
Post by newbie on Jun 20^th, 2007, 8:37pm

Cheers guys ;D

Yeah wasn't the best username, but i thought it was best to make it clear i am a novice to woodwork. I will probally change my username once i get in to the swing of things ;)

the gate will be about approx 5 feet tall by 2 feet wide. :-/
It will be uesd to keep the kids in or out depending on how you look at it. So i guess a closed design :-?

Will any stainless steel screws do so long as they are the right length :-/

6x3 will be fine for the gate post fixed to the wall, but the wall is rendered so do you have any tips for getting the post leve ;)l

I will get treated timber as you suggested, but when you say it is 6mm oversized and will need planing to get smooth and flat, do you mean at the timber merchants or by myself (much easier at the merchants i guess ;) :D)

newbie ;D

Title: Re: cladding
Post by Scrit on Jun 20^th, 2007, 8:55pm

All, how do you manage to plane soaking wet freshly tanalised timber. Round here tanalised is always either freshly treated (I've even had the stuff still warm and steaming from the treatment tank) or soaking wet 'coz they leave it out in all weathers (well, it's treated so it ain't going to rot if it gets wet, izzit?). Just curious ;D

Scrit

Title: Re: cladding
Post by woodsmith on Jun 20^th, 2007, 10:01pm

I think what BA was saying is that generally tanalised timber is 6mm bigger than PAR for any given size because it hasn't been planed smooth. That said my local builders merchant is now stocking mostly pre-planed tanalised timber ::)

Scrit just put the timber out in the sun for a few days 8-).

Quote:

Will any stainless steel screws do so long as they are the right length

More or less, Pozidrive drive in easy, but slotted are stronger.

Title: Re: cladding
Post by big_all on Jun 20^th, 2007, 10:46pm

wrote on Jun 20^th, 2007, 8:55pm:

yes sorry about the confusion i was indeed pointing out that if he bought planed timber its smaller and more expensive and not suggesting he does it

thanks for clearing that up keith ;D ;D ;D ;)

Title: Re: cladding
Post by newbie on Jun 26^th, 2007, 3:08am

Aright guys ;D,

After reading your replys and doing some research over the weekend i have come up with a plan of attack. :-/

What if i use 6x3 treated timber for the gate posts fixed with 100mm coach screws M10.
Use 4x2 treated timber to make the gate (two stiles, three rails, and two diagional braces connecting the rails).
Use slotted wood screws for the gate cladding, but i am unsure about what timber size would be best for the cladding.
Use 50mm oval head nails for the weatherboard fence cladding.

What do you think guys does this sound ok? :-/
Any advice about what size timber to use for the gate cladding? :-/
Also the guy at the merchants was trying to convince me to use x4 or 4x2 for the gate post does that seem like a good idea (i suppose you would of suggested it if it was)? :-/

hope you can help ;D

Title: Re: cladding
Post by big_all on Jun 26^th, 2007, 3:28pm

am i understanding this right ::) ::)

your gate is only 2ft wide x5ft high!!!!!

you need 3x2" or 4x2" screwed to the wall

your gate can be constructed from 3x1treated or 4x1" treated

if your gate is made from 2" timber and its inward opening [which i know its not ::)] you will loose 5" of your 24" ;)

Title: Re: cladding
Post by Sandy on Jul 18^th, 2007, 9:27pm

Hiya,

Not sure if I'm too late with this posting but, with regards screws/fixings, have you heard of and/or considered the Spax screws? They do screws that require an 'Allen Key' type driver bit, but, there's no cam out with the bits.

I've done some fencing/decking recently and used some of them and absolutely love them. They drive in really easily with no pilot holes as the threads are really sharp an therefore cut through the wood better.

Anyway, if you've started then it doesn't matter, but, just an idea.

Sandy.

Title: Re: cladding
Post by Scrit on Jul 19^th, 2007, 5:33pm

woodsmith wrote on Jun 20^th, 2007, 10:01pm:

That said my local builders merchant is now stocking mostly pre-planed tanalised timber ::)

Ere WS, you're area aren't arf posh! ;D

woodsmith wrote on Jun 20^th, 2007, 10:01pm:

Scrit just put the timber out in the sun for a few days 8-).

I live in the Pennines - you can't guarantee a few days worth of sun, especially in the winter when people seem to want fencing putting in :-X

On the treated gate front we have a firm over in Oldham called George Hills who will supply softwood for you to machine then take it back and return it pressure tanalised. Neat way of being able to work timber then post treat. It was only a thought.....

Scrit