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https://www.askthetrades.co.uk/cgi-bin/yabb/YaBB.pl DIY Forum >> Electrical Questions >> Installing Galvanised Trunking/Conduit https://www.askthetrades.co.uk/cgi-bin/yabb/YaBB.pl?num=1350941846 Message started by Gary on Oct 22^nd, 2012, 10:37pm

Title: Installing Galvanised Trunking/Conduit
Post by Gary on Oct 22^nd, 2012, 10:37pm

Firstly this is all at the planning stage - will be following the book in terms of notifying BCO etc.

Going to be doing a full rewire of my garage - planning on using galvanised trunking/conduit mainly because I can and I want everything to look really neat. I haven't worked with either before so need a bit of guidance (1/2 the fun I guess)

1. I've noticed from pic's on the net that some people tend to bend the conduit where they gland/connect it to the trunking. What's the reason for this ? Is it just to make it easier to drill the conduit once attached to the wall - i'm guessing I would need a proper pipe bender if I was to do this

2. I've used one of these MK enclosures before (the 4 way version) however they only have knockouts on the side. Is there anything stopping me drilling the top or bottom edge and using an appropiate connector/gland ?

http://www.tlc-direct.co.uk/Products/MK5704.html

Thanks

Title: Re: Installing Galvanised Trunking/Conduit
Post by Lectrician on Oct 23^rd, 2012, 10:54am

Setting the conduit out at the trunking is done to help drill in-situ trunking and to help do up the bush inside. I prefer not to set it to be honest.

You may find you need to set conduit a touch at some accessories - not all have their knockouts at spacerbar saddle depth.

I have found with rotary isolators it is easier to use 'hospital' saddles which stand off the wall a tad more. No setting required.

You could opt for galv trunking at waist height, and just use a conduit coupler and two bushes at accesories. This is quite often preferred these days - easier to install and maintain. Have a look at Phils garage in Eastenders ;D

You could also use galv trunking and PVC conduit. Nothing wrong with this in a lighter commercial application.

With steel conduit, you will require a 20mm pipe bender (hired or bought), and a stock and die set to cut the threads on the ends. With PVC conduit, everything is cut and (ideally) glued, although just push fitting is fine for inside use.

You can drill enclosures where you wish, although I would be looking to use metal clad boards if it was me, particularly type A boards, such as the MEM or Merlin ones. That would be my preference.