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DIY Forum >> Carpentry Questions >> Timber frame https://www.askthetrades.co.uk/cgi-bin/yabb/YaBB.pl?num=1089749968 Message started by chris1969 on Jul 13th, 2004, 9:19pm |
Title: Timber frame Post by chris1969 on Jul 13th, 2004, 9:19pm I Need a bit of advise, i am doing some work for a customer that wants her outer house, with three internal rooms making into a utility room,i have allready put in new door linnings and she now wants the plasterer to plaster the concrete ceiling which she has asked me to make a timber frame to fasten the dry linning boards to. My question is, could joist hangers be used knocked into the brickwork then screwed into place and also what size timbers to use.The internal rooms are only small 6ft x 3, or is there anything else on the market for this purpose.cheers ??? |
Title: Re: Timber frame Post by splinter on Jul 14th, 2004, 12:17am chris 1969, you could fix 2"x2" battens straight to the ceiling using srews and plugs a sds drill would make easy work of drilling the concrete :) |
Title: Re: Timber frame Post by Dewy on Jul 14th, 2004, 2:13am As for using joist hangers. It depends on the height of the ceiling. If it's a high ceiling then it's a possibility to lower it. If already low then battens screwed to the concrete is better. |
Title: Re: Timber frame Post by jasonB on Jul 14th, 2004, 7:42am You could fix two timbers to the 6ft walls with plugs & screws then fix 3ft timbers at rightangles to these at approx 400mm cts just nailed at an angle, as its such a small area joist hangers would be overkill. I've used this method several times on small bathrooms and kitchens maybe with an intermediate support for larger spans using 50x75 or CLS Jason |
Title: Re: Timber frame Post by woodsmith on Jul 14th, 2004, 8:29am After you have screwed the frame to the ceiling make sure you use foil backed plasterboard (which acts as a vapour barrier) to prevent condensation forming in the void. |
Title: Re: Timber frame Post by big_all on Jul 14th, 2004, 10:46am heeelllooo chriss 1969 im absolutly shure youve thought about these points but just a reminder ::) ::) ::) because its a single panel going up mark the position of any joists so you know where they are and dont forget about any wireing |
Title: Re: Timber frame Post by chris1969 on Jul 14th, 2004, 9:22pm Thanks guys for the advise but i think i'll use splinters method of fixing 2 bi 2's to the ceiling ,its not me doin the plastering its my brother and the wireing has already being done so thats not a problem Once again thanks for all your help, cheers. :) |
Title: Re: Timber frame Post by Robbo on Jul 14th, 2004, 10:44pm 2x2 is the best job, though I would be inclined to use compress anchors rather than plugs and screws as they are a great deal faster and tight as a drum.(sds 8mm and 100mm anchors) I do whole houses this way on the hollow core concrete flooring and then counter batten the opposite way with 2x1 screwed with 40mm drywalls, a couple of tips if she is plannining recessed lighting you need to cut out some of the concrete ceiling directly above where the light will be set as even 2x2 plus 2x1 plus 12.5mm board is not deep enough to house them., also with the 2x2 often there is one side a few mill different to the other so can put a bit of a wave in the board if they are not all fixed with the same thickness on the timber. Bit fussy that I know but it can be seen to a critical eye, also try and set your timbers so they fall halfway into an 2400x1200 plasterboard from both ends of the room so that there are minimal cuts and wastage when slabbing. |
Title: Re: Timber frame Post by chris1969 on Jul 15th, 2004, 2:15am Cheers robbo i might just do all that, i cant ramble on now as its 2 in the mornin but if i need any more assistence i'll give ya all a shout. Cheers again. |
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