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Message started by trowelhead on Nov 5th, 2004, 9:33pm

Title: external light switch
Post by trowelhead on Nov 5th, 2004, 9:33pm

I am currently in the thought ( ???) process of fitting an external light and switch to the shed at the rear of my garden.
The shed is seperated from the 'garden' by trellis and i was thinking of putting a light on the shed and the switch on the house side of the trellis so i can turn on the light before i get to the shed.
Question:What make would you pros recomend for the switch?I was thinking of the MK (bluey/grey colour) as it seems to be the preference.
I have some swa (3 core 1.5mm) to dig in (approx 2m) from the shed internal electrics to the switch,does the swa terminate directly into the mk(or other make) switch or do  you terminate into an ip metal box and then run cable(if so what type) into the switch?

Thanks in advance lads.

Title: Re: external light switch
Post by L.Spark on Nov 6th, 2004, 1:44am


wrote on Nov 5th, 2004, 9:33pm:
I am currently in the thought ( ???) process of fitting an external light and switch to the shed at the rear of my garden.
The shed is seperated from the 'garden' by trellis and i was thinking of putting a light on the shed and the switch on the house side of the trellis so i can turn on the light before i get to the shed.
Question:What make would you pros recomend for the switch?I was thinking of the MK (bluey/grey colour) as it seems to be the preference.
I have some swa (3 core 1.5mm) to dig in (approx 2m) from the shed internal electrics to the switch,does the swa terminate directly into the mk(or other make) switch or do  you terminate into an ip metal box and then run cable(if so what type) into the switch?

Thanks in advance lads.


The bluy grey colour is MK 'masterseal' it's the most expensive, and to be honest id go with one cheaper thats just as good for your purposes.

You could gland into the PVC switch box with the correct gland and seal's etc, however I personaly don't like glanding to anything other that metal boxes, however I would in your circumstances if you use 1 core for the earth, and the other 2 cores as in and out to the switch.

If your planning to do this by yourself then theres a few things you will need to know, for starters there are BW and CW type SWA glands, you would need a CW for your switch if it's exposed to the weather.

CW glands have an extra internal seal to stop the water getting in to the connections.

Hope this helps

Title: Re: external light switch
Post by supersparky on Nov 6th, 2004, 12:10pm


wrote on Nov 6th, 2004, 1:44am:
The bluy grey colour is MK 'masterseal' it's the most expensive, and to be honest id go with one cheaper thats just as good for your purposes.



NOOOOO
ive tryed almost every other make and viseted alot of them a month  /year down the line to find water/ damp ha got in

you can get other colours aswell not just grey

they are the best, worth the money!
same as the sockets

ss

Title: Re: external light switch
Post by Lectrician on Nov 6th, 2004, 1:18pm

MK Masterseal are the boys, available in white now aswell, and other colours to-order for large quantities.

MK MK MK MK MK

They are the Rolce Royce, and will last...

Title: Re: external light switch
Post by trowelhead on Nov 6th, 2004, 2:19pm

Thanks for help lads.
Am i right in thinking then that aslong as i use the third core for the earth then i dont have to ensure a good connection or even attatch the the earth to the armour?

Title: Re: external light switch
Post by supersparky on Nov 6th, 2004, 5:03pm

NO! you MUST gland the SWA
you cant not attach the armour to earth anyway...
you have to gland it so the gland does it automaticly

ss

Title: Re: external light switch
Post by plugwash on Nov 6th, 2004, 5:22pm

also the MK ones are much bigger than most

i wouldn't fancy glanding SWA to some of the smaller outdoor sockets and switches i've seen


Title: Re: external light switch
Post by Lectrician on Nov 6th, 2004, 5:43pm

Yea, I regularly gland directly into a Masterseal socket or switch.

You must earth the armour at atleast the supply end, and preferably both.  As you are using plastic enclosures, the banjo that comes with the gland is used to achieve the connection.

Title: Re: external light switch
Post by L.Spark on Nov 6th, 2004, 9:20pm

lol calm down lads, Masterseal is the dogs nuts yeah, but the cheaper options are ok, seen a few in operation (inside), however for glanding masterseal has the most space, also probably has the best waterseal around it.


Quote:
Am i right in thinking then that aslong as i use the third core for the earth then i dont have to ensure a good connection or even attatch the the earth to the armour?


No, one core of the cable is used as your main earth, however the cable should still be glanded properly, the armour will then be earthed trough the gland and with addition of the earth ring, this can be cross earthed at the house end.

Too many times have I seen 3-core armoured cable used with no glands, just with the cores coming out into P\N\E, if someone cuts trough the cable, it's possible for the armour to become live if not earthed.


Title: Re: external light switch
Post by supersparky on Nov 6th, 2004, 9:32pm


wrote on Nov 6th, 2004, 9:20pm:
Masterseal is the dogs nuts yeah, but the cheaper options are ok


challenge you to go back in a few years...

fitted about 4 diffo makes down in newquay
right on the coast
one year later
socket is soaking, lightswitch has water arround the actual switch mechanism
even the floodlight has its terminals somhow rusted!

in went mk masterseal
the floodlight had silicone pumped into it
and all is well  :D

inferior makes arnt up to it no matter what anyone says, flase econmy and expect to be replacing it shortly

ss

Title: Re: external light switch
Post by sparkyjonny on Nov 6th, 2004, 9:57pm

Strictly speaking electric fittings should not be fixed to a wooden fence.  In practice its ok, so long as the trellis posts are firmly anchored to the ground (bolted / concreted in to a decent depth), using tanalised timber in healthy condition,a nd the whole structure is not going to blow over in strong winds for many years.
Alternatively, if the trellis is weak, set a dedicated post in the ground next to the trellis, so even if the trellis blows over, the electrical post remains upright.

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