Post by billythekid on Nov 12th, 2004, 12:43am
here's a "drawing!" haha
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DIY Forum >> Carpentry Questions >> Staircase https://www.askthetrades.co.uk/cgi-bin/yabb/YaBB.pl?num=1099928320 Message started by roadblock on Nov 8th, 2004, 3:38pm |
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Title: Staircase Post by roadblock on Nov 8th, 2004, 3:38pm I need a staircase, total rise of 2550 usual 860 width. Doesn't have to be anything special......any ideas? looked at Stairplan .com but thought the price was a bit much, specially the delivery ! All help appreciated |
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Title: Re: Staircase Post by JerryD on Nov 8th, 2004, 5:25pm Any local joinery shop should be able to make a staircase. I usually pay from around £650 + vat for a single winder (quarter turn), softwood strings, mdf treads and ply risers. For a straight flight I would expect it to cost about £450. This would include all newels, handrails and spindles (all in softwood) Prices rise from there according to materials used. |
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Title: Re: Staircase Post by HandyJon on Nov 10th, 2004, 1:45pm www.loftshop.co.uk do a straight run staircase for £249, total rise 2640mm/total going 2750m, 864mm total width |
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Title: Re: Staircase Post by JerryD on Nov 10th, 2004, 9:53pm Jon, that ain't gonna fit! Floor to floor rise he needs is 2550. I presume the loftshop one is 'off the shelf' (rather than custom made to order?) You can go to Magnet and get a straight flight (2600 rise) for £100 or so. It's the 'custom made' bit that costs the money. |
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Title: Re: Staircase Post by billythekid on Nov 10th, 2004, 10:46pm could you not just take 50mm off each step? might be showing my ignorance here ;) |
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Title: Re: Staircase Post by big_all on Nov 10th, 2004, 11:03pm Quote:
think of it logicaly billy your suggestion is move every step down individualy by 50mm the easiest way to do that is to remove 50mm from the bottom of the stringers and bottom riser but you shouldnt do that be cause it dosnt comply with building regs cos the stairs arnt all the same[bottom step 2inches less ::) ::) ;) |
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Title: Re: Staircase Post by JerryD on Nov 10th, 2004, 11:38pm and if you take 50mm off each tread, you end up with the top tread 700mm below the landing :o ??? |
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Title: Re: Staircase Post by roadblock on Nov 11th, 2004, 11:38am So it looks like I should stop being a tight sod and pay the 410 pounds for the straight flight, no balustrade just the stairs..........100 delivery seems a rip off though! Why the architect specified 2547 as the finished floor height to finished floor height also remains a mystery :'( |
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Title: Re: Staircase Post by Cliff_Top on Nov 11th, 2004, 9:59pm If it's a straight flight why not make it yourself? It's a fairly simple process. A decent router and a jig will take care of the strings; the nosings and riser rebate on the treads can also be done with the router, that just leaves four mortice and tenon joints to cut. A little bit of planning and a couple of days work and it's done. |
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Title: Re: Staircase Post by JerryD on Nov 11th, 2004, 11:48pm wrote on Nov 11th, 2004, 11:38am:
That's cos his mate makes custom staircases ;D |
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Title: Re: Staircase Post by billythekid on Nov 12th, 2004, 12:20am wrote on Nov 10th, 2004, 11:38pm:
no it doesnt, your only gonna get 50mm off the entire thing, each tread height( bar the top one ) doesnt affect the height of the stairs. you would have dropped the total height by 50mm only, even though you've taken off 700mm of wood. i think im talking about stringers (thats the notchy ibts right) if you take 50mm off each one then surely they would all be the same height, even the bottom one, coz you took 50mm off every one, not just the bottom edge. |
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Title: Re: Staircase Post by JerryD on Nov 12th, 2004, 12:29am nah........ if you reduce the height of one tread rise by 50mm then the total height of the staircase is reduced by 50mm. But if you then reduce every tread's rise by 50mm then the effect is cumulative. How can you have 700mm of offcut wood but the stairs only lowered by 50mm? Perhaps we are all talking about different things here? Treads: The bit yer foot goes on Risers: The vertical bit from one tread to the next Strings: The wide timber sides that the treads and risers are fixed into. So the strings sit on the floor at the bottom and lean against the landing trimmer. Does any of this make sense? ;D |
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Title: Re: Staircase Post by billythekid on Nov 12th, 2004, 12:37am im talking about the zig-zag bit(string?) like i said before, showing my ignorance but the effect wouldnt be cumulative coz your cutting off 'from the middle of the run' on the tops, not affecting the height of the total 'zig-zaggy bit'( when i saw them beign made was out of 2x12's? i think. ) |
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Title: Re: Staircase Post by billythekid on Nov 12th, 2004, 12:43am here's a "drawing!" haha |
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Title: Re: Staircase Post by big_all on Nov 12th, 2004, 12:55am right ok lets resolve this one ::) ::) ;) billys solution is to drop every step by 2 inches in relation to each other so the rise is constant between each step as it was before so final drop 2 incheswhich is exactly the same as removing 2 inches off the bottom [bottom step two inches less rise than the rest ;) whilst jerry d is saying if its accumulative 2inches of each riser assuming 14 would be 700 a tread or riser cannot be altered[easily]becasuse they are in grooves with wedges set into the strings :o :o :) ;) |
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Title: Re: Staircase Post by Dewy on Nov 12th, 2004, 4:22am Never done stairs but as I understand it building regs say that each riser has to be equal and also each tread must be equal. Therefore total rise must be divided by number of steps and treads must be divided my distance along. |
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Title: Re: Staircase Post by billythekid on Nov 12th, 2004, 8:49am ok yeah i see how the bottom one would be shorter now i've drawn a pic, then you have to lower the joists........ |
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