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Message started by JohnD on Apr 3rd, 2005, 7:59pm

Title: Floorboards
Post by JohnD on Apr 3rd, 2005, 7:59pm

Modern metric floorboards are just a little thinner than the old fashioned imperial ones - about 2 mm.

Is there a simple dodge to build up the joist, or have I really got to plane a wooden shim for each ruddy joist - about 64 at the last count?!   I have seen Marley floor tiles used in the past but don't want to go down that route as they can split when nailed.

Thanks,

JohnD


Title: Re: Floorboards
Post by big_all on Apr 4th, 2005, 4:40pm

heeelllooo john d

if i am missreading your post sorry ::) ::)

i am shure you realise that wood from the timber yard is usualy 2 mm thicker than the sheds ;)

Title: Re: Floorboards
Post by Dewy on Apr 4th, 2005, 7:29pm

Adding to what big all said a timber yard can machine boards to match the existing ones and still be cheaper than the DIY sheds.

Title: Re: Floorboards
Post by JohnD on Apr 5th, 2005, 2:55pm

Didn't realise this at all.  Although I normally use builders merchants for most things, I hardly ever do anything in wood, and therefore use B & Q......I will try a wood yard and if still in difficulty I will get some planed to the right size!

Thanks

JohnD

Title: Re: Floorboards
Post by dirtydeeds on Apr 5th, 2005, 5:52pm

a quick dodge, use 2mm window spacers

Title: Re: Floorboards
Post by Dewy on Apr 6th, 2005, 1:37am

When I need some wood machined to an exact size that I am unable to do I always get the timber yard to machine it.
When I wanted some hardwood to fit in the mitre gauge slides on my table saw for jig making it only took them a couple of minutes to size them perfectly.

Title: Re: Floorboards
Post by JohnD on Apr 30th, 2005, 10:37pm

Result!  100 foot of floorboard, good quality, planed to exact size.  Cost  was £60 for 100'.   Cheaper than thinner stuff from B & Q.

It would have cost more for a tongue and groove, but I didn't want one, as the joists are every 18" so springing isn't going to be much of a problem with a 5" x 3/4" board, and absence of the groove will make it much easier to get the boards up for the next rewire.  

Thanks, Dewy!

JohnD

Title: Re: Floorboards
Post by The_Trician on May 1st, 2005, 2:20am

You just can't beat your local wood yard - Stuff is usually better quality, and if you use em often enough, it'll be cheaper than the crap stuff they sell out of the sheds.

TT

Title: Re: Floorboards
Post by woodsmith on May 1st, 2005, 10:12am

John IMHO you would be better off getting it t&g'ed it's not just there for support, although that is its primary purpose. But as the boards contract and expand it helps to fill the gaps, which otherwise howling gales can blow through; bringing masses of dust with it.

And wait till someone drops something and it goes rolling along the floor and drops through the gap :-/

John I have written this as much for someone else who looks at this thread and would otherwise get the impression that it is good practice, which it isn't.

Keith

Title: Re: Floorboards
Post by JohnD on May 3rd, 2005, 12:43am

Keith
Boards are for one bedroom and the landing. I take the point about support, although with 3/4" board and 3" joists at 18" intervals - i.e. 15" apart - I can't see this will be a problem.  There is one wider gap which I will brace laterally.

Howling gales, dropped pennies etc will be taken care of by gaffer tape, and then the floor will be carpeted.  It just saves me removing tongues in 30 years time, should I still be here!

JohnD

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