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DIY Forum >> Painting, Decorating & Tiling Questions >> painting bare wood https://www.askthetrades.co.uk/cgi-bin/yabb/YaBB.pl?num=1155850875 Message started by wretch on Aug 17th, 2006, 10:41pm |
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Title: painting bare wood Post by wretch on Aug 17th, 2006, 10:41pm just fitted new wooden skirting and architrave in my kitchen.filled in all gaps with gripfill,now to paint it! sand smooth clean surface with white spirit one coat of oil based primer light rub down one coat oil based undercoat one coat oil based gloss light rub down final gloss coat is this the best way or do i need a bit of professional guidance these are jobs you do for years and suddenly realize no one has ever really shown you the best way to do it best regards wretch |
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Title: Re: painting bare wood Post by WOLF on Aug 18th, 2006, 12:19am should have used stopper and oiled the timber!! but seeing as you want to paint it, i leave it in Hammy's or Cora's capable hands!! one tip though, if you do clean down with white spirit, give it a light (fine) sand after the first wipe, as applying a liquid (spirit or other wise) to bare wood will raise the grain slightly, so as follows . wipe with spirit, sand lightly when dry, wipe over again or use a tack cloth/rag! to remove dust/impurities! then apply an oil based primer/sealer! (pink ones best!)... AFTER you have applied a knotting solution to any knots that are visable on the surface! or you can/will get bleed through of the knots!!! ................ .................. ...................... "paint" grumble moan, ...Var@#sh, mumble groan!!!" sulk! sulk!! |
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Title: Re: painting bare wood Post by woodsmith on Aug 18th, 2006, 1:58am TIMBA-WOLF wrote on Aug 18th, 2006, 12:19am:
;D just a bit of pine, not too bad ::) I prefer two coats of undercoat and one gloss :-/ if I have to paint. |
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Title: Re: painting bare wood Post by corablimey on Aug 18th, 2006, 8:56am If the knots havent been pre-treated then you must dab all the knots with knotting prior to any painting, as a year or so down the line the knotts will bleed thru, and its a bugger to put right through all the layers pf paint. Either use an old brush or a bit of cotton wool and dab on the knots, it will dry very quickly then prime. Personally I would do at least 2 coats of the oilbase U/C, you get a nicer finish, and in between coats you will see little indents holes or nicks, as the more white you put on the more it shows. So you might have to do a bit more filling in between coats, if you are having new wood, and want a smooth finish to last, then its best you do spend the time and do it the right way from the very beginning. It breaks my heart if I go in and repaint doors, frames etc, and I see the knotting bleeding thru, for the sake of 10 mins or so, it can all be avoided. :) |
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Title: Re: painting bare wood Post by wretch on Aug 18th, 2006, 5:34pm thanx for the advice everyone.i'll try two undercoat and one gloss and of course i'll treat the knots!as for varnish and stain go i did an old outside s---house once and it looked very nice |
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Title: Re: painting bare wood Post by hamilton on Aug 18th, 2006, 10:28pm Can't add to anything Cora has said really, she has covered it well. Just don't forget to hoover up round the base of the skirting and make sure there is no dust about, and use a tack rag after sanding. |
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Title: Re: painting bare wood Post by Bayden_Rank on Aug 21st, 2006, 7:47pm TIMBA-WOLF wrote on Aug 18th, 2006, 12:19am:
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Title: Re: painting bare wood Post by wretch on Aug 21st, 2006, 7:54pm so now the wood is taken care of,just got to finish gloss it,how can i prepare the newly plastered(thats a laugh) walls.there are quite a few areas of filler and lots of little knocks that need covering.the problem is the different surface finishes often show up especially with downlights.the walls have had a thin coat of pva to keep the dust down.i want to finish them with a matt kitch & bath emulsion. best regards wretch |
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Title: Re: painting bare wood Post by corablimey on Aug 22nd, 2006, 7:24am Thats the downside of plastered walls, they look lovely in the natural light, but get the artificial light on them and it shows every nic and indent. you can either paint them with a white quite thin miscoat, or if you have a lot of the colour specially if its quite light you can use that, this will show up every nic etc, give the walls a light sand down before you do this, as you will have loads of nibs on the plaster. After you have miscoated and you fill all the nics and indents, rub them down, and then whack some paint on the filled areas with a brush at least 2-3 times, then do your normal coats. This is called 'spotting the filler' and what happens is if you dont spot and just roll as normal, then the white filled areas will 'flash' show thru the paint, I never have this as I always spot at least 3 times. In between coats again give a light sand down with either a worn bit of sandpaper, or very fine, and carry on with your coats. I have said this on other threads, but when you do your final coat, cut in and roll one wall at a time, you get a far better finish. Also, Use a good quality Matt paint, dont use silk, or soft sheen, its sort of okay for skimmed plaster, but silk and soft sheen isnt very kind to the walls, it tends to empathise and lumps and bumps in the walls. |
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Title: Re: painting bare wood Post by WOLF on Aug 22nd, 2006, 4:35pm Paint the walls with "SUEDE" paint...???? :o :o no marks then at all!!!!! confused?? N.B: this is an actual product!!!!) :o :o |
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Title: Re: painting bare wood Post by wretch on Aug 22nd, 2006, 11:56pm thanx cora two coats of undercoat gives a really deep base for the gloss so i will follow your advise on spotting the walls . best regards wretch |
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