Ask The Trades | |
https://www.askthetrades.co.uk/cgi-bin/yabb/YaBB.pl
DIY Forum >> Painting, Decorating & Tiling Questions >> tiling wooden floors https://www.askthetrades.co.uk/cgi-bin/yabb/YaBB.pl?num=1164638092 Message started by senor_j on Nov 27th, 2006, 2:34pm |
Title: tiling wooden floors Post by senor_j on Nov 27th, 2006, 2:34pm hello all. can i have some advice on tiling wooden floors please? I plan to tile throughout a hallway to a kitchen, over a combination of patched up floor boards and 18mm board. What is the ideal depth for the board i will tile on to? 6mm? Hardboard or ply? Also,can anyone recommend a flexible tile adhesive?one that goes off quick - if there is such a thing! Any other advice greatly appreciated . Thanks. J. |
Title: Re: tiling wooden floors Post by Simes on Nov 27th, 2006, 5:33pm Hi I use a product called 'Hardibacker' to really good effect. It's designed specifically for the task. Comes in 6mm for floors and 12 mm for shower walls etc. Sheet size is 900 x 1500 for about £15. Info: http://www.pureadhesion.co.uk/product/172/hardibacker%20250%20(6mm%20floors) For the adhesive, just ask the tile shop for "flexible rapid" in 10 or 20 kg bags, drymix. It's worth using flexible grout too, or put a flex additive in to your chosen grout. Any good tile shop will give you advice on the products they sell. Good luck! Cheers, Simes. |
Title: Re: tiling wooden floors Post by jasonB on Nov 27th, 2006, 5:36pm Make sure all the existing boards are screwed down firmly to the joists. Then overboard with a minimum of 12mm WBP ply screwed to the old boards at 200mm centers (25mm screws into pre countersunk holes) Something like BAL Rapidset Flexible will do the job and can take light foor traffic after about 3hrs. Use a flexible grout as well, BAL Superflex wide joint grout is what I usually go for. You should be able to get these from a decent tile shop or your local Topps Tiles will have them. Jason |
Title: Re: tiling wooden floors Post by senor_j on Nov 28th, 2006, 3:04pm thanks very much for the advice. i think I will board it with the ply, as it's quite a large area it could be very costly with the hardibacker, though i may give it a whirl in the bathroom! cheers. J. |
Title: Re: tiling wooden floors Post by Simes on Nov 28th, 2006, 11:43pm I'd give the ply a couple of coats of pva before you lay the tiles. |
Title: Re: tiling wooden floors Post by jasonB on Nov 29th, 2006, 8:02am DO NOT use PVA unless the adhesive maker specifically advises it. Read this Jason |
Title: Re: tiling wooden floors Post by senor_j on Nov 29th, 2006, 2:11pm Thanks for that Jason. will deffo check with BAL. J. |
Title: Re: tiling wooden floors Post by WOLF on Nov 29th, 2006, 10:28pm a very good pointer there JasonB, and a small bit of Hedumakashun too!!!! interesting ...thanks!!! having had this arguement before with someone, and NOT being able to stated why i never pva ply!!! now i can give substance to my arguement! |
Title: Re: tiling wooden floors Post by jasonB on Nov 30th, 2006, 4:11pm It's a hands link to send people to. Can't take the credit for it, Alan at AT Stone is our occasional visitor "Mudster" Jason |
Title: Re: tiling wooden floors Post by CWatters on Dec 11th, 2006, 5:58pm My carp has been fitting Hardibacker to ort bathroom/shower.. He's found it blunts jigsaw blades real fast. Used about 20 so far! |
Title: Re: tiling wooden floors Post by WOLF on Dec 11th, 2006, 7:28pm tell him to stop buying the CHEAP Screwfux ones then dude!! ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D heard they are made from tinfoil! :o |
Title: Re: tiling wooden floors Post by jasonB on Dec 12th, 2006, 4:20pm Tell him to use aquapanel as it cuts like plasterboard and stanley knife blades are a lot cheaper than jiggy ones. BTW Hardibacker make a spacial tool for cutting their boards. Jason |
Title: Re: tiling wooden floors Post by Gammy_leg on May 25th, 2007, 9:18am Chaps, Following on from the original question, I am tiling in my kitchen / diner at the moment. The kitchen end was quarry tiled originally and I have just tiled straight over them - no problem. At the dining room end, I have wooden floorboards which are at a slightly lower level so I have made up the difference with 3mm hardboard sheets. From previous experience trying to tile onto the shiny side of these is a no-no because the adhesive won't stick, would I be safe tiling onto the rough unfinished side?, do I need to prime first. I am using Wickes dry mix tile adhesive. Thanks Gammy |
Title: Re: tiling wooden floors Post by jasonB on May 26th, 2007, 7:41am DO NOT tile onto hardboard, it will expand with the moisture from the adhesive and when it dries out will crack the adhesive. Ideally you either need to overboard with 12-15mm plywood or replace the existing floorboards with 25mm WBP ply then tile with a flexible adhesive and flexible grout. Some will say you can tile straight onto floorboards with the right adhesive I don't take the risk, if you want to go that route then use a two part flexible adhesive with a large format trowel, this will give a thicker bed of adhesive and allow you to loose the 3mm height difference. Jason |
Ask The Trades » Powered by YaBB 2.3! YaBB © 2000-2008. All Rights Reserved. |