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https://www.askthetrades.co.uk/cgi-bin/yabb/YaBB.pl DIY Forum >> Carpentry Questions >> Chipboard Floor https://www.askthetrades.co.uk/cgi-bin/yabb/YaBB.pl?num=1220113584 Message started by Lectrician on Aug 30^th, 2008, 5:26pm

Title: Chipboard Floor
Post by Lectrician on Aug 30^th, 2008, 5:26pm

I am about to order some green chipboard to lay on my newly erected suspended floor.

Do I just use white PVA wood glue on the T+G? I have seen people also run a bead of glue on the joist?

Am I right that as long as the T+G is glues, and correctly fitted, and boards staggered, it does not matter if a joint falls between joists?

Would you nail with ring shanks? There is no ceiling below.

Some people still seem to prefer to screw?

Do you leave a gap at walls?

Any other advice greatly recieved!

Title: Re: Chipboard Floor
Post by WOLF on Aug 30^th, 2008, 7:30pm

Lec try this link, it has a down load brochure, and how to use the stuff, there are so many variables that with out looking, it is hard to advise directly!!

http://www.kronospan.co.uk/products/tgflooring/index.html

Title: Re: Chipboard Floor
Post by Dolallytap on Aug 30^th, 2008, 11:07pm

Have a look at Caber floor

Title: Re: Chipboard Floor
Post by woodsmith on Aug 31^st, 2008, 4:25pm

Quote:

Do I just use white PVA wood glue on the T+G? I have seen people also run a bead of glue on the joist?

Yes white PVA is OK. I personally dont put PVA on the joist because if you ever have to take part of a board up it would be a nightmare.

Quote:

Am I right that as long as the T+G is glues, and correctly fitted, and boards staggered, it does not matter if a joint falls between joists?

See my note below

Quote:

Would you nail with ring shanks? There is no ceiling below.

You can but I prefere to screw

Quote:

Do you leave a gap at walls?

Yes about 10mm, fill it with expanding foam to stop draughts

Quote:

Any other advice greatly recieved!

I was asked a similar question a while back for the magazine.

Quote:

I am replacing a floorboarded floor which is in very poor condition with tongue and grooved chipboard flooring and I have a few simple questions which I can not find the answer to, can you help?
1. Chipboard comes in 18 and 22mm thickness, which one should I use?
2. Should the joints be glued?
3. Do I need to align the joins over the joists?
4. What is the best way to fix them, nails or screws?

Your help would be appreciated and is there anything else I need to consider?

It is quite an easy job to lay a chipboard floor, the boards are not too heavy but it would be wise to get some help laying them as the relatively thin edges of the boards are easilydamaged. Chipboard floors are renowned for squeaking if they are not fitted properly so firstly you will need to clean up the tops of the joists in order that the boards have a good flat surface to fit to. It is a good idea as you are laying the boards to mark the positions of any pipes or wiring with an indelible pen on the surface of the boards and do not forget to leave a 10mm gap round the edges to allow for movement. As to your specific questions;
1. The thickness of flooring depends mainly on joist spacing; if the joists are spaced 450mm or less then 18mm flooring can be used. If the joist spacing is 600mm then use 22mm chipboard.
2. Yes glue all the joints with PVA adhesive, it stiffens the floor and helps to prevent it creaking.
3. The boards run across the joists so the long joints will not be supported but the short joints should be aligned with a joist, if not you will need to add a noggin to support the joint.
4. Ring shank nails are often recommended for chipboard floors but I always screw flooring down, it takes a little longer but screws do a far better job. Spax make a screw specifically designed for flooring, Screwfix sell them part no 56710, and they cost £3.96 for 100. Screws should be fitted at about 200mm spacing.

Title: Re: Chipboard Floor
Post by Sandy on Sep 2^nd, 2008, 9:38pm

Hi Lectrician,

I've recently re-floored one of my bedroom with T&G Sheeting. I would agree with everything that woodsmith has suggested.
1) Not gluing and screwing instead of nailing makes it easier to lift the boards again (if required) without damaging the boards.

2) The only extra thing I did was half way down the room I removed the tongue of one sheet and the groove of the sheet butted next to it. The reason being that if access is needed to get to wiring underneath, then I can reduce the amount of sheets needed to be lifted. The more times the sheets are lifted, the less they tend to go back down tightly and then they start creaking badly.

Only a thought though.

Title: Re: Chipboard Floor
Post by Lectrician on Sep 6^th, 2008, 8:07pm

Thanks for the input.

The printed side goes up I assume?

How do you start a run?

Do you cut the tounge/grove off the two edges which will be against the walls?

And I am trying to work out if the tounge or groove goes against the wall so to speak. I am assuming that the groove should be on the 'open' end of the board, ready to accept the next sheet?

Title: Re: Chipboard Floor
Post by woodsmith on Sep 7^th, 2008, 8:02am

Sandy; I wouldn't recommend cutting off the tongue and groove to allow possible access in the future. It is easy enough to cut an access hole in chipboard if you ever need to.

Lec, I put the groove against the wall, leaving a small gap for expansion, makes it easier to apply glue to the joints. Plus if the joists are not completely flat it is easier to fit the groove over the tongue.

Make sure the room is square, if not you may have to cut the board against the wall. Make sure the first row is perfectly straight and get the joints clamped as tight as you can before screwing down. If you don't get them sqaure the difference magnifies as you go and you won't be able to get the joints to clamp up on later joints.

Hope that makes sense.

Title: Re: Chipboard Floor
Post by Dolallytap on Sep 7^th, 2008, 9:29am

For what this may be worth. The few times have laid this type of flooring I have not screwed any boards it in place until all the boards have been laid. Once the floor is fully laid then I flick a chalk line to indicate the position of the floor joists. With this method you can easily correct any discrepancies before finally fixing the boards.

Also for what its worth when I positioned the joists I set them at 400mm centres this makes sure where possible to have a joist positioned at every 2400mm. Be using 18 or 25mm boards.

You guys know I produce guides on various aspects of cabinetry and joinery do you think it would be worth while producing one on this subject?

Title: Re: Chipboard Floor
Post by woodsmith on Sep 7^th, 2008, 11:16am

DT that's OK unless you glue the joints, which you should IMHO. If you glue and lose lay, in all but the smallest rooms, which won't run out of square anyway, the glue will set before you get chance to correct any out of squaredness.

Title: Re: Chipboard Floor
Post by Lectrician on Sep 7^th, 2008, 11:25am

So you dont cut the tounge off the long edge of the first board where it meets the wall?

Title: Re: Chipboard Floor
Post by woodsmith on Sep 7^th, 2008, 11:40am

Lectrician wrote on Sep 7^th, 2008, 11:25am:

So you dont cut the tounge off the long edge of the first board where it meets the wall?

No, because I put the groove against the wall ;)

Title: Re: Chipboard Floor
Post by Dolallytap on Sep 7^th, 2008, 11:46am

woodsmith wrote on Sep 7^th, 2008, 11:16am:

Should have added screw the boards down once you have flicked the chalk line. And I think I mentioned about correcting any discrepancies squaredness

Title: Re: Chipboard Floor
Post by Lectrician on Sep 7^th, 2008, 11:51am

woodsmith wrote on Sep 7^th, 2008, 11:40am:

Lectrician wrote on Sep 7^th, 2008, 11:25am:

So you dont cut the tounge off the long edge of the first board where it meets the wall?

No, because I put the groove against the wall ;)

[smiley=duh.gif]

Ha! You know I meant groove!

Title: Re: Chipboard Floor
Post by woodsmith on Sep 7^th, 2008, 1:28pm

Lectrician wrote on Sep 7^th, 2008, 11:51am:

woodsmith wrote on Sep 7^th, 2008, 11:40am:

Lectrician wrote on Sep 7^th, 2008, 11:25am:

So you dont cut the tounge off the long edge of the first board where it meets the wall?

No, because I put the groove against the wall ;)

[smiley=duh.gif]

Ha! You know I meant groove!

;D No I leave it, it doesn't take any load as it will be mostly under the skirting

Title: Re: Chipboard Floor
Post by woodsmith on Sep 7^th, 2008, 1:32pm

wrote on Sep 7^th, 2008, 11:46am:

woodsmith wrote on Sep 7^th, 2008, 11:16am:

Should have added screw the boards down once you have flicked the chalk line. And I think I mentioned about correcting any discrepancies squaredness

Trouble is, even if it screwed down, the long joints will tend to creak unless glued. Plus sometimes the boards need dramatic cramping to pull them in line.

Title: Re: Chipboard Floor
Post by Lectrician on Sep 11^th, 2008, 6:11pm

Floor down and done.

Cheers fellas.

Will take some pics at some point ;D

Title: Re: Chipboard Floor
Post by greg on Oct 20^th, 2008, 9:02pm

Lectrician wrote on Sep 6^th, 2008, 8:07pm:

The printed side goes up I assume?

Doesn't it go printed side down?

Title: Re: Chipboard Floor
Post by Lectrician on Oct 21^st, 2008, 6:15am

Yea, I have done it, and I did go printed side down.