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https://www.askthetrades.co.uk/cgi-bin/yabb/YaBB.pl DIY Forum >> Plumbing Questions >> Wediboard - Shower Cubicle https://www.askthetrades.co.uk/cgi-bin/yabb/YaBB.pl?num=1272995929 Message started by Sandy on May 4^th, 2010, 6:58pm

Title: Wediboard - Shower Cubicle
Post by Sandy on May 4^th, 2010, 6:58pm

Hi all,

I have some questions about fitting in a shower cubicle and the materials I'm considering for preparation and finishing. My bathroom currently has a bath with electric shower over. The bath's going and will be replaced by just a 900 x 900 shower tray and cubicle to make more room in what is currently a tiny bathroom.

Anyone like to cast their opinions on the virtues of Hardiebacker or Wediboard? I see from a layman's viewpoint, they do the similar job, but made of completely different materials.

Wediboard's website shows a massive list of products. Am I looking for Wedi-Tilebacker Building Boards? If so, is there a guideline thickness I need to consider for a shower area?

The website mentions "driving in plastic or metal dowels after the adhesive has cured". Are these there to help stop the foam being crushed should anything/anyone fall on to the finished wall (and rupture the tiling)?

As the material is foam based, how would a shower be firmly attached to the wall? Long screws seems a simple but too obvious a solution.

Any thoughts gratefully accepted.

Title: Re: Wediboard - Shower Cubicle
Post by thescruff on May 5^th, 2010, 12:24am

In the good old days we would use 12mm ply, I still would instead of all this fancy stuff.

Title: Re: Wediboard - Shower Cubicle
Post by PatPending on May 5^th, 2010, 8:48am

Have done some research into this and is worth noting that Wedi Board and other 'waterproof' materials are, in fact, not waterproof. They delay the ingress of water through the wall but ultimately allow it to pass through without destroying the board. Trad plasterboard or ply would deteriorate.

The key is the quality of the tiling as the first barrier to water, and the tanking of the area between the tiles and the board with waterproof tapes and resins.

P

Title: Re: Wediboard - Shower Cubicle
Post by CWatters on May 5^th, 2010, 8:58am

I have both in my bathroom. I would probably opt for hardibacker.

I built a wash basin stand from wedi board and while it is easier to cut I decided it needed wooden dowels and blocks let in to provide local re-inforcment for things like towel rails. I don't think falling through it would be an issue. With Hardi you can decide later where you want fixings to go. Hardi can be cut with a jigsaw but the blades don't last long.

If you decide to go with plywood I'd look at good quality WBP. Some places sell more than one grade. Some of the rubbish at DIY stores isn't very waterproof. It shouldn't need to be but water has a way of getting everywhere.

Title: Re: Wediboard - Shower Cubicle
Post by Sandy on May 5^th, 2010, 6:00pm

Might be an obvious question, but if I opted for WBP/marine ply, I assume (I know, dangerous thing to do ;)) the plaster comes off and I'd bond the sheet material directly to the brickwork, rather than plant straight onto the existing plaster?

Title: Re: Wediboard - Shower Cubicle
Post by CWatters on May 6^th, 2010, 8:03am

Backing board is normally used on stud walls instead of plaster board. If you have a plastered brick or block wall you can tile directly onto the existing plaster if it's in good condition (eg not loose or water damaged or greasy).

If you want to overboard the existing plaster I see no reason to remove it unless it's saturated or not flat.

Title: Re: Wediboard - Shower Cubicle
Post by Sandy on May 6^th, 2010, 6:24pm

Thanks for those comments.

Final question then. Fit tray first and tile up from the top edge of the tray. Or, tile first and butt the tray up to the tiles?

Title: Re: Wediboard - Shower Cubicle
Post by CWatters on May 6^th, 2010, 6:45pm

What sort of tray?

Some trays don't have vertical sides, they taper to allow them to be removed from the mold when they are made. So you can't push them up against vertical tiles as there could be a rather large gap at the top (= ugly large fillet of sealer).

Some trays also have an upstand designed to go behind tiles. The plaster may have to be cut back to allow the tray to go close enough to the wall so that the tiles can go down over the upstand.

If you just have a simple tray... Fit the tray checking it's tight enough to the wall that the gap at the top isn't huge. Run sealer along where the tray meets the wall, tile the wall down to the tray, grout, allow to dry etc then run more sealer along where the tiles meet the tray. Well that's what I'd do but I'm not a professional.