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This any good?

Jason

Come on guys, what y'all thinking!

Cut out a section on the 200mm run and replace it with a new piece of pipe, soldered on with TWO slip connectors.

So say you cut out 60mm of the old pipe, get a 60mm length of new pipe, clean/flux it and slip on a slip-connector onto either end.  Put the new piece of pipe into place and slide each slip connector outwards by half their length.

Assuming all is clean and fluxed, apply heat and solder.

Stand back and admire job.

Once drained down this whole process should take less than 5 minutes.

This will only work if the pipe can be drained and kept dry during soldering.





Above are two types of soldering slip connectors, top one is endfeed, bottom one pre-soldered.

Slip connectors don't have a central 'stop' so can be completely slid over the pipe and off the other end (if you want!)

Chaddy, these lovely slip connectors have saved the day for me many times.  

You can even get 100mm ones for soil pipe repairs.  

Todays Tip: Always best to mark the wall behind the pipe exactly where the join is, that way you can be sure the slip connector ends up central over the join and not 'a bit to one side'

rats tail file inside a standard 15mm end feed coupling will also work!

[quote author=billythekid  link=1132244302/0#8 date=1132409700]
i often use a hacksaw blade on regular 110 pvc unions to make them slip couplings, usually because I have ordered the wrong stuff! lol


btk [/quote]

The Polypipe 100mm straight couplings have central stops that are 'knock outs'.  This is useful as you don't have to order slip couplings specially, as they use the same fitting.  Just knock out the four small lugs with a small chisel or screwdriver.

If you can get all the water out of the pipe without cutting it a simple repair I was told about does work.

Clean the pipe around the hole and 10mm either side.

Wrap a length of copper electric wire around and around the pipe to form a coil as close and tight as you can.

Apply Laco or similar self cleaning flux and solder the wire to the pipe, allow the solder to capilary right round the repair.

test for leaks.

Try it on a scrap lenght of pipe