Have you got a URL or specification for the LED tube?  I'd like to see brightness data.

The balast generates the high voltages needed to get an ordinary tube to strike. I imagine that would damage an LED lamp so I presume you have to remove the balast and run 240V to each lamp holder. Exactly how you do that should be in the instructions supplied with the LED tube. Probably a job for an electrician.

I'm not an electrician (just an electronics engineer) and I'm not sure what the safety or regulations implications there are for doing this.

the info is as follows:

Comes in Aluminum alloy material with acrylic cover.
- Available for 100-150V 60Hz and 190-260V 50Hz. 277V version is also available.
- Built with dedicated LED driver with PWM constant current supply to ensure
unlike many other designs where only normal rectifier and simple RC circuit is
employed.
- Direct plug-in replacement for conventional T8 Fluorescent tube i.e. with electrical
or magnetic ballast & starter. Note that it does not need such ballast & starter to
operate, and normally its performance should not be affected, if left intact. However,
for these models with HB LEDs and higher power factor value, it is recommended to
bypass the magnetic ballast if there is negative impact on PF value or blinking,
please make sure there is no condenser in the fixture.
.
- Not recommended for fixtures with electronic ballast / starter due to much higher
voltage. The internal wiring of such fixture must be reconnected to have the
electronic ballast / starter removed.


14W 800lm
Warm white(3500-4100K)
>0.9 25

hope this helps

Not much help but...

http://www.google.co.uk/search?hl=en&q=%22for+these+models+with+HB+LEDs+and+high...