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Cold radiators (Read 15599 times)
woodsmith
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Cold radiators
Apr 1st, 2011, 6:22pm
 
I have a long thin house and I have just discovered that the two radiators furthest from the boiler (at each end of the house) are cold. I've had the pump and diverter valve changed but it has made no difference.

The system has worked fine for 10 years and is a Bosch combi, with 15 radiators. Piped in Hepworth 22mm to manifolds then down to 10mm to rads.

The Bosch service guy recommended a Powerflush. Last year I used a cleaner and had it running for a week before draining and refillig with Fernox, is a Powerclean so much better?

I've been quoted £452 for a Powerclean and £220 to fit a Magnaclean, is this reasonable?

Scruff I have seen you recommended the Magnaclean last year, is this still the best? Is it better than the Fernox total filter?

Final question, the pipework is Hepworth grey pipe, I am wondering if they fitted non barrier pipe, do you know if Hepworth make a non barrier version? The Speedfit barrier pipe has a black layer, this pipe is grey all through.

Thanks
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thescruff
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Re: Cold radiators
Reply #1 - Apr 2nd, 2011, 1:12am
 
The Spriro Magnet & filter is the best, but most expensive.

I just fitted a magnaclean at home, but unless you fit the filter tech then it only cleans the magnatite.

Back to the problem, I wouldn't pay for a powerflush especially on a manifold system, as in my opinion at best it will do nothing.

What I would do in your case, because it works and best it doesn't cost a penny other than you time

In the summer, I would drain down the system and isolate the boiler.

Next turn all the rad valve off except one.

Disconnect the valves and connect two hose pipes, one to drain and the other to the mains, turn it on and wait till it is clean.

When done turn the mains off, while you open the next radiator, and repeat, only this time you are flushing the radiator as well.

The radiator you disconnected can be flushed out down the garden.

What you are doing is flushing each rad and pair of pipes with mains pressure.

It's also best if you reverse the flow each time as well.

When done add the inhibitor.
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« Last Edit: Apr 2nd, 2011, 1:13am by thescruff »  
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londonman
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Re: Cold radiators
Reply #2 - Apr 2nd, 2011, 7:06am
 
You have my sympathies, WS. Been there. Done that. Got the stains. Sued the company. Won the case.

Would I be correct in saying that you possibly have kept the heat down or even off in these rooms? That is what we did in some of the rooms in our house and like you have plastic pipes fitted - although larger at 15mm. Same problem. Cold radiators.

I did everything that Scruff suggested. In fact you will find my thread on the very same topic here http://www.askthetrades.co.uk/cgi-bin/yabb/YaBB.pl?num=1284813832/13#13

I removed the radiators that were in rooms without carpet, took them outside and flushed them in both directions with a hose connected to mains pressure. Shook 'em, swilled 'em until all the black magnatite came out.  Reconnected.  Still not working.

Drained the system down, took up some floorboards and broke into the 15mm pipe to find this ...

and this was after I had tried powerflushing it.  I got some of that curtain flexible plastic cased curly-wurly stuff used for hanging curtains - no idea what it's real name is.  I then put that in a drill and spun it as I fed the stuff back into the pipe...a sort of scouring action...but that only worked so far as the curly-wurly just knotted itself up.  So Plan B was to just keep shoving this wire up and back down the pipe trying to get out as much black crud as I could.

So I reckon that this is what you've got.  The strange thing is that in static water flow, the black crud seems to have a preference for blocking up plastic pipe because 15mm copper in the same circuit remains as clean as a whistle.  Maybe this is the dirty little secret that plastic pipe manufacturers would prefer kept quiet.

Did I succeed ?  Nope because to get even further down the pipes would have required taking up the fitted carpets in the bedroom.

The one thing that powerflush advocates and also those who say how wonderful the system cleaner products are forget to mention.  That is that you actually need some flow through the blockage otherwise they do absolutely nothing. If your pipes are really blocked like mine then you'd get more fun out of burning £452 of pound notes then you would from having your system powerflushed.
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« Last Edit: Apr 2nd, 2011, 7:12am by londonman »  

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woodsmith
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Re: Cold radiators
Reply #3 - Apr 2nd, 2011, 9:53am
 
Much obliged for the replies, things look pretty bleak then, but at least I have saved myself £452.

Scruff the Spiro Magnaclean 2 is about £100 is that the one you mean? Like Roger I wish I had known about these things earlier, every system should have one IMHO.

I will do as you suggest and run the mains through the system as soon as we get a couple of warmer days.

Roger one of the rads does not get used as it is in the room with the log burner, the other is a heated towel rail and is on all the time. The thought of having to renew any pipework is totally depressing, the house is full of beams and the pipes all run behind the plasterboard walls, it would be a disaster.

I'm still wondering if the pipework is not barrier pipe that would help to create a lot more magnetite in the system, not much I can do about that now though Undecided
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« Last Edit: Apr 2nd, 2011, 9:54am by woodsmith »  
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CWatters
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Re: Cold radiators
Reply #4 - Apr 2nd, 2011, 2:46pm
 
Interesting article on this subject (or at least on the chemistry of a heating system)..

http://www.energymanagertraining.com/Documents/lecture15.doc

Seems magnetite is good (section 2.4)...

Quote:
The formation of magnetite prevents further steel/water contact and thus the reaction is self limiting


but Hematite is bad (section 2.5)...

Quote:
Water reacts with iron to form magnetite only in the absence of oxygen. The presence of oxygen promotes the formation of Hematite or Red Iron Oxide which is non-protective.


How do you tell the difference? Is it simply a matter of looking at the color?  I wonder why magnetite doesn't appear to be self limiting in domestic heating systems?
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« Last Edit: Apr 2nd, 2011, 2:47pm by CWatters »  
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thescruff
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Re: Cold radiators
Reply #5 - Apr 2nd, 2011, 3:46pm
 
Was talking about this baby.

http://www.magnabooster2.co.uk/

One thing you could do is run a strong magnet around any exposed pipes, if you have a magnetite problem it should stick to the pipes
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woodsmith
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Re: Cold radiators
Reply #6 - Apr 2nd, 2011, 6:22pm
 
Thanks for that Scruff, I will order one later, and get the baby up and running as soon as I get it.

I'll try the maget idea too: Ta.
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woodsmith
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Re: Cold radiators
Reply #7 - Apr 5th, 2011, 6:31pm
 
Well I've fitted it Grin

And then had a go at running the mains through the system; unfortunately it flushed through the rads which get hot, but the cool ones did not have anything like enough water running through to carry any sediment (we have 2.5bar mains pressure here). So thanks again for the advice as I doubt the powerflush would have had much joy either.

So now I have put two packs of cleaner in the system and will let it run it for four weeks in the hope that the Spiro will take out some of the slurry the cleaner disturbs. Then have another go with the mains.

Thanks again for the help.

Keith

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londonman
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Re: Cold radiators
Reply #8 - Apr 5th, 2011, 6:57pm
 
Good idea about the magnet. Have you got any of those flat rare earth magnets in your workshop?
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woodsmith
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Re: Cold radiators
Reply #9 - Apr 5th, 2011, 7:46pm
 
londonman wrote on Apr 5th, 2011, 6:57pm:
Good idea about the magnet. Have you got any of those flat rare earth magnets in your workshop?


We have loads of magnets, Judith is fascinated by them. Trouble is we have no accessible pipework that is blocked.

Its hot here; I'm running the heating full belt. Perhaps I should have done this last December Grin
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greg
Re: Cold radiators
Reply #10 - May 10th, 2011, 6:13pm
 
Keith, whilst the weather is a little warmer, it may be worthwhile shutting off all the radiators except the two that are not heating up and try getting some cirulation through them to get the cleaner in them.  If you get no circulation through them, then you may be able to force the blockage by disconnecting the rad valve from the radiator(collect the water from the rad) and connect a bucket pump to the valve and push water back through the pipe.  Be careful of creating too much pressure though so as not to blow a joint.
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greg
Re: Cold radiators
Reply #11 - May 10th, 2011, 6:14pm
 
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woodsmith
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Re: Cold radiators
Reply #12 - Jun 11th, 2011, 7:01pm
 
Greg, sorry I didn't reply, I've only just spotted your post but I now have a fully functioning system.

We took Scruff's advice and did loads of running the mains through the system. We then fitted a Spirotech to the boiler return, but I must say I am a bit underwhelmed with its performance.

We have obviously been disturbing the magnetite as we have been flushing and found we had more radiators not working after flushing.

In the end half the rads did not work so we bought a Magnaclean which we fitted to the flow from the boiler. Since fitting it this has been collecting about 100 times more bits than the Spiro and with another couple of flushes we were left with just 2 rads which did not work.

I tried compressed air (up to 8 bar) but even that would not shift it so we ran in two new pipes which has obviously solved the problem.

Thanks for all the advice, much appreciated now, and we will be especially grateful when the cold weather comes back.
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Re: Cold radiators
Reply #13 - Jun 11th, 2011, 9:50pm
 
Were they plastic pipes?
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Re: Cold radiators
Reply #14 - Jun 12th, 2011, 12:04pm
 
Yep, 10mm Hepworth which we replaced with copper
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Re: Cold radiators
Reply #15 - Jun 22nd, 2011, 8:50am
 
Interesting. Confirms my own observations that static water in a central heating system will deposit (ie block up) plastic pipe in preference to copper.  Quite why, I have no idea.
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Re: Cold radiators
Reply #16 - Jun 22nd, 2011, 11:44pm
 
woodsmith wrote on Jun 12th, 2011, 12:04pm:
Yep, 10mm Hepworth which we replaced with copper



Magnaclean should be in the return not the flow.

As should other brands.
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« Last Edit: Jun 22nd, 2011, 11:45pm by thescruff »  
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