Call your local authority - under Part P they are supposed to supply resource to do the certification.

However, it might be worth getting a helpful local spark round first to give some advice. Reason being that if you get the local authority in and they fail it then you've got the test fees all over again. A local spark ought to be able to answer any obvious questions you might have, and might even give it the once over before you go to the local authority (without him actually issuing the certificate).

Just a thought.

HM

'Contracts' agreed betweem 2 parties before 1st of Jan and due to be completed before March are presently exempt from Part P, so make a contract with your wife and do it yourself - no one'll know in any case unless you involve your local Building Control people for any other aspect of the shed construction.

Keep coming here for further advice too.

TT

[quote author=Gisburne  link=1102118646/0#4 date=1102156141]Typical, I've had years to build a shed and do the wiring, and now when I finally do it they bring in new laws! [/quote]

They won't stop at part P. Rumours are flying around that they are looking at Part XYZ for plumbing. Soon you won't be able to change a tap washer without involving your local council.

HM

I'm in Derby (just off the ring road near the Showcase cinema) so if anyone wants to contact me and quote me for the parts of the job I don't want to do, I would certainly appreciate it.  I can PM my number to anyone interested.  

I will almost certainly need a new consumer unit in the house, given that the box I have appears to be made of brown bakelite (!) and isn't a 'consumer unit' as such, probably a 'fuse box', so I doubt if it would be suitable for fitting the required RCD protection needed for the shed.  But please don't spoil my Christmas by telling me I need a total re-wire of the house!  That was to be another question - do I need a total rewire just for a new consumer unit?

My original plans are to use the shed as a workshop, (for woodworking), but my girlfriend wants a TV/DVD etc in there because the inside is actually bigger than our living room!  Luckily the keys belong to me!

I have my eye on a rather nice table saw which is 2.2kw, plus maybe 2-3kw for heating, but I do want the flexibility to do whatever I like in there, so basically the more power I have the better.  Who knows if I will want to put a chest freezer or clothes dryer in there, so plenty of power please!

10mm or even 16mm SWA is fine by me, and I'm aware of the expense but would rather get it in at the start than dig up the trench in a year's time.

For lighting, at present I have 2 rooms, one with 3 light fitting spread evenly across the ceiling, and the other room has one fitting in the middle, so 4 in all.  I have a loft, and as the shed is an L-shape I probably want 2 lights up there.  I bought a couple of bulkheads the other day which would probably be suitable.  I also want some outdoor lighting - again, just a couple of bulkheads attached to the underside of the roof overhang so as to shine light downwards.

There's plenty of work there, though as I say it's the thought of digging a 60-foot long trench down the garden in winter which is putting the brakes on most of it.  A new house consumer unit (if needed) is probably the first job, which can be done 'as soon as', so if there is anyone in the area, let me know and we can take it from there.

Since finding this forum yesterday I've been reading a lot more of it, and it is certainly a great place for help and advice, so I'll definitely be here regularly.

Cheers

Nick

If the cable is modern (less than 30 years old) PVC insulated & sheathed, and you have sufficient sockets in rooms, and no braided flex suspending pendant lights, then the chances are you don't need a rewire (dependant on insulation resistance etc).  You'll probably need your main bonding to water & gas incomers upgrading, supplementary bonding in the bathroom, and RCD protection on some circuits.
Main bonding is a good example of the things you can do yourself, or at least the cable runs, with most of the work being these cable runs.

You'll need a split-load consumer unit (decent brand - MK?) in the house.  Do you have TT (earth rod) earthing arrangement, or is the Main Earthing Terminal connected to the incoming service fuse?  Considering the size of your workshop, I'll also fit another split-load board in here, so your lighting does not fail when the RCD trips.  This board will be fed from the non-RCD side of the house's board, so if the house trips, the shed doesn't, and vice versa.  Your outdoor ligting could be on the RCD side - even though it's not a requirement of the regs, it improves safety if any metal fittings are used or there is a chance they could be touched.

[quote author=rabbit_rabbit  link=1102118646/0#10 date=1102177643]As TT says just get on with it and do it as in "Me Gov? I finished that job back in errr... April 2004". [/quote]

And be sure to explain that all the receipts for the shed materials were post-dated a year later than that because you put the electrics in a whole 12 months before you erected the shed......

HM

[quote author=rabbit_rabbit  link=1102118646/0#10 date=1102177643]From a purely accademic point of view, the installation will need and EIC (Electrical Installation Certificate) and the persons signing it need to sign for 'Design', 'Installation' and 'Inspection and Testing'.

It would be a brave man that would sign all three sections where - YOU did the design and YOU did the installation. [/quote]

I'm missing something here. Ain't that what the local council are supposed to do then? DIYer does the electrics, the council tax grabbers pay a visit, and the certificate is yours.

What's different about a regular spark issuing such a certificate then?

HM

[quote author=Gisburne  link=1102118646/0#14 date=1102181489]

On another note, how much does it cost to get someone official in to inspect and pass my work as safe, which I presume is the alternative route to take?  Expensive?

(Digs deep in pockets)

Nick [/quote]

word on the street is about £200 + vat.  That's assuming they find nothing wrong otherwise it's a re-test after any corrective work has been done  

Hello Nick

I quote you -

"Rabbit, it seems to get worse the more I hear about the new regs - 'Design', 'Installation' and 'Inspection a Testing' ALL have to be done by a qualified person?  But pehaps my get-out is the fact that I won't be designing the work which adds the CU, buried cable, etc.  Or does the certificate also spell out the full details of the entire installation, in which case I'm stuffed again!

Well there's nothing else for it, I'm going to have to dig the trench and get someone in quick!  Please tell me it's okay to bury the cable even if the bottom of the trench isn't completely dry - because it obviously won't be at this time of year!

I wouldn't have this problem if I was able to do the WHOLE job myself, but as with most 'competent DIY' people, I know my limitations, and I don't want anything to do with the main supply in the house.  I could let a spark do the whole job, but that's at least one or two more days labour onto the bill.

I'm going to ring an electrician up (unless someone on here local to Derby would like to contact me?) and see what he can do for me.

Just a thought: let's say this was an outbuilding which had been unused for some time and the electrics had been disconnected.  Would the work involved to connect it back up again also have to involve an inspection of the existing circuits?  You see what I'm saying - that was already there, guv, I just had the supply connected to it.  Which in effect is what is happening."

Yes its 'madness' but that is because the whole of Part p is in a state of 'flux' (plumber talk for - what a load of rubbish). Mind you with Pisscott heading it up did you expect anything else? It is EXACTLY the same as when Gorgi registration came into effect - turmoil.

Dont worry the fact that the ground is wet as ya dig the trench - just take care please and dont drown.

1. Have you worked out the maximum load in shed?

2. You know the length of cable between CU and shed I assume.

From 1 and 2 you can determine SWA cable csa needed (ask Plug - he is a gem on this sort of thing)

3. Make sure SWA cable is 750 mm (yes sorry 750m) deep in areas that caould be dug (borders etc.)

4. Make sure you have an RCD protecting the SWA cable circuit.

5. Make sure you put in a 'Garage/Shed unit' (CU) with main 30 mA RCD isolator in shed.

6. I always shove in a rod at the shed end - that's coz I am an old git and old habits die hard (and for £5 I would rather not die).

7. Connect up your lights and sockets.

8. Get in a sparky to test RCD at BOTH ends and get him to do a visual - buy him a pint or two.

And get it done before say March next year.

And most importantly enjoy doing the job, be diligent which I have NO doubt at all that you are - stuff the Part p bit.

Any problems get back here and ask I know some here live near you!

RR

lol Jonny - tell ya one thing; I have only ever once put an swa that deep its what the regs require!

As for rods - WHAT Jonny ya dont have a rod meter in ya kit bag? Never met one yet who has so ya not alone.

Errr when it comes to checking the rod resistance stand by with a bucket of water   you throw it and I will take the reading OK.

RR

I know Jonny  

RR

lmao Gisburne ya GREAT!! Have ya not completed the project yet mate!

Well if ya using SWA shove it off to on side under the hedge mate. Failing that get Mrs Gisburne to bury it - tell her its your grave she's digging and watch how quickly she digs it!

Just don'tt hook the SWA up against a fence that is a no-no.

Look I am up in Chesterfield Monday and Tuesday on a course can ya get the whole of it done by then? I will come across check it and sign it off for ya!

DONT WORRY SO MUCH!

RR

Ray, slow up a minute, for starters the guy doesn’t have to have an electrical certificate at this time, come part-p everything changes, having the work done sooner the better, an installation certificate would require everything to be signed for and this just complicates matters.

He should look at doing what he feels he is 'competent' to do, and leave the rest to the spark to deal with, as long as he understands that all the Earthing would need to be correct, all bonding etc.

As I said, there’s no reason to complicate this any more than it has to be, if the work or some of it is to be done after January then a written contract of some description should be put in place encase of the unlikely.

Is there no way you could 'mole' this cable down the garden, I've had this work done in the past and it's way cheaper than digging long trenches (and no making good after).  All you need is a 3 foot long trench at each end for the mole to start and finish.  It would punch through  most walls but if your wall is megga then you may have to aim under the footing.

Well......I've never seen one in B&Q but you never know  

See this link:

http://www.hammerheadmole.com/methods/horizontal_boring_method.htm

btw, the mole 'punches' its way through the ground rather than drilling so there is no waste soil created, just a lovely hardwalled hole through the ground.

They're used a lot for sending cables under roads, saves digging up the road.  I've heard of them being used to send cables under bowling greens and tennis courts for floodlighting, saves tracking all the way round the perimiter etc etc.

Sorry chaps been away and trying to catch up.

Jonny - not exactly a 'course' and not at Technique. I am being assessed to become a local area assessor. And I think, only think, I have passed - twas quite intensive but 'refreshing'. Met up with some REALLY nice sparks from around the UK and had some 'fun' evenings etc.

Regarding rods: Err aint there some reference (BS 7671) to "Thou shalt NOT rely on RCD's....."?. As I said I am of the old school - like I earth knock out boxes but note the new Brown books says ya dont have to any more - I shall of cousre continue to do so.

rr