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Chess Table (Read 9575 times)
jasonB
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Chess Table
Feb 3rd, 2005, 5:56pm
 
As it's been a bit quiet lately, thought I would post a pic of a table that is due to be delivered tomorrow

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v156/jasonballamy/Chess%20Table/PIC11.jpg

...

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v156/jasonballamy/Chess%20Table/PIC13.jpg

It is a commision by regular client, a present for her husbands 50th birthday.

Made from a combination of veneer and solid maple with solid ebony accents and veneer squares. The apron was made by laminating 9 layers of 1.5mm birch skin ply over an MDF former then a layer of maple veneer over that.

There are more photos of the finished table and some in-progress shots in this album

http://photobucket.com/albums/v156/jasonballamy/Chess%20Table/

Jason
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« Last Edit: Feb 3rd, 2005, 5:59pm by jasonB »  
 
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woodsmith
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Re: Chess Table
Reply #1 - Feb 3rd, 2005, 9:15pm
 
Jason, as usual, very nice indeed, I won't post a picture of what I have been making; (a dog shelter Roll Eyes)

What do you do to keep the ebony from marking the maple? I have just been making an ash and ebony box and it is very hard to stop the  dust getting into the grain of the ash and spoiling the finish, even if it is all pre treated.

Keith
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WJOHNM
Re: Chess Table
Reply #2 - Feb 3rd, 2005, 9:17pm
 
yip very nice table there jason.
what joint did you use on the drawer front-drawer sides?
what finish did you use?
i have 3 pieces of sawn maple all 185x63
1 @1370
2 @1150
looking for ideas on what to make and best finish to use.
cheers john
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trowelhead
Re: Chess Table
Reply #3 - Feb 3rd, 2005, 9:35pm
 
Just a little personal enquiry jason,what age bracket are you in?
I do enjoy looking at  your photo work,its how work should be done,properly and with a sense of pride.
I get the feeling that you are quite young yet your work seems to be 'old school', just like my dear old dad used to do.No matter how long it takes do it right and be proud to call it 'all your own work'.
Keep it up,there are few of you left.
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coggy
Re: Chess Table
Reply #4 - Feb 3rd, 2005, 9:38pm
 
I know that is fantastic work. that must have cost them a fortune to buy that

Great workmanship, puts my MDF units to shame Embarrassed Embarrassed

Jasec
Coggy
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jasonB
Re: Chess Table
Reply #5 - Feb 4th, 2005, 7:25pm
 
Keith, that was one of my concerns so it thought I would go for a cabinet scraper but gave up after a while, not helped by the fact that the ebony veneer was about 1.0mm and the maple only 0.5mm. In the end I went for my Metabo SXE450 with a clean bag in the dust extractor which pulled the dust awat as quick as I could make it, worked down to 400g

Sprayed the first coat of Aquacote to avoid it pulling any dust out of the ebony and onto the maple.

The open grain of your ash probably didn't help as I have had problems withoak/ebony


John
I cut 3 stepped grooves into the draw front (you can just see two of these in the pic where the apron sections are being glued ) with matching steps on the draw ends. Counterbored and screwed through the front of the draw into the sides and pulled it together with screws. Then filled with epoxy and laid the veneer over the front.

Finish is matt Barfords Aquacote

Trowelhead I'm 38.

Jason
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big_all
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Re: Chess Table
Reply #6 - Feb 4th, 2005, 8:38pm
 
Quote:
Great workmanship, puts my MDF units to shame  

Jasec
Coggy


not for long jase get your workshop up and running you will soon progress to mdf batgammon sets Roll Eyes Roll Eyes

no but seriously jase your skills are coming along nicely and your confidence is good just practice with odd bits of wood amd make somthing to get the feel of the wood the way it cuts routers ect but hopfully you will not end up with hardwood matchsticks Shocked Shocked Wink
or hamster bedding Wink
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« Last Edit: Feb 4th, 2005, 8:39pm by big_all »  

big all ---------------  we are all still learning
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splinter
Re: Chess Table
Reply #7 - Feb 4th, 2005, 8:59pm
 
Jason,
        A chess table and a half I've got say.
Being of the old school I was all taught to use a scraper on hard wood and  glasspaper on softwood .The reason being is that the scratches woud always show through on hardwood .We also use to use white spirit to clean any foriegn bodies of the veneer before we put any finishing coats on the material
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JerryD
Re: Chess Table
Reply #8 - Feb 5th, 2005, 7:24am
 
I'm blown away with the quality of that table Jason!

If I make anything, I usually use sawn/tanalised timber, cut on a DeWalt chop saw and assembled with 90mm nails using a Paslode 350  Sad Shocked
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« Last Edit: Feb 5th, 2005, 7:24am by JerryD »  
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ColG
Re: Chess Table
Reply #9 - Feb 5th, 2005, 9:04pm
 
So you're into fine woodworking then Jerry Grin

Nice piece Jason - Just setting up my workshop/shed, gives me something to aspire towards.
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JerryD
Re: Chess Table
Reply #10 - Feb 6th, 2005, 12:54pm
 
[quote author=ColG  link=1107453384/0#9 date=1107637442]So you're into fine woodworking then Jerry Grin
[/quote]
Yes, I'm going to try and make some palletts next  Roll Eyes Grin
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jasonB
Re: Chess Table
Reply #11 - Feb 6th, 2005, 2:50pm
 
Jerry remember to use the no-mar end for the 350 on your next project to get that "fine furniture" look and you could try using CLS instead of thet rough sawn stuff Grin

Jason
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JerryD
Re: Chess Table
Reply #12 - Feb 6th, 2005, 5:21pm
 
[quote author=jasonB  link=1107453384/0#11 date=1107701433]Jerry remember to use the no-mar end for the 350 on your next project to get that "fine furniture" look and you could try using CLS instead of thet rough sawn stuff Grin

Jason [/quote]

Thanks for the tip Jason!

CLS is a good idea too, it needs less Cuprinol than sawn!  Grin lol

Aaaaaah, tis good to be a craftsman...........  Sad Grin Wink
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ColG
Re: Chess Table
Reply #13 - Feb 6th, 2005, 11:00pm
 
CLS!!!!!  Straightest bit of timber you can buy from that quality firm B&Q - use it for all my fine woodworking Cheesy
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