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Apr 22
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› Help with sapelle hardwood worktop
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Help with sapelle hardwood worktop (Read 5197 times)
numbnutz
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Help with sapelle hardwood worktop
Feb 6
th
, 2007, 11:05am
hi i need to do 45 degree mitre cut on sapelle hardwood worktops
is it best to use a router or circular saw an what would be best type 4 job to hire /buy
cheers
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Scrit
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Re: Help with sapelle hardwood worktop
Reply #1 -
Feb 6
th
, 2007, 7:48pm
Good quality circular saw with a fine toothed blade and a straigfht edge guide or a guide rail system. You might still need a well sharpened and honed jack plane to trim the fit, though
Scrit
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jasonB
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Re: Help with sapelle hardwood worktop
Reply #2 -
Feb 7
th
, 2007, 7:34am
Assuming this is for a flat corner joint (not the best joint to use)
If you don't have a sharp plane you may well be better off rough cutting buy hand or with a circular saw if you have one then trim with a router against a straight edge.
If its for a returned end support then saw and plane as scrit says with a few biscuits to hold the joint in place.
Jason
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numbnutz
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Re: Help with sapelle hardwood worktop
Reply #3 -
Feb 15
th
, 2007, 12:24pm
what oil do i use
an how often should they be oiled
and how many coats from new any know plz lol
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jasonB
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Re: Help with sapelle hardwood worktop
Reply #4 -
Feb 15
th
, 2007, 1:14pm
Rustins Danish oils is OK
Once a day for a week, once a week for a month. once a month for 6months then as and when it needs it say every 6months.
Make sure you get several coats on the underside and cut edgesbefore fixing.
Remove any excess oil thats on the surface within 10mins otherwise it goes sticky, rub down between coats with a grey Scotchbrite pad.
Jason
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Last Edit: Feb 15
th
, 2007, 1:15pm by jasonB
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wretch
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Re: Help with sapelle hardwood worktop
Reply #5 -
Feb 16
th
, 2007, 10:51pm
hi everyone
i've just had the most stonking american black walnut worktops fitted.the chippie planed the edges sq and butt jointed them,screwing them together.he shaved the joint to get rid of any step but to be fair there was only about half a mill bend in them.i sanded them to 150 grit and put five thin coats of VARnish on and they look the biz.he said the joint should be fine but obviously its wood in a kitchen.with a sq edge worktop what other types of joint would be more suitable?
p.s. with the cost and weight of these blocks its really best left to a proper carpenter,they do exist!
best regards
wretch
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jasonB
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Re: Help with sapelle hardwood worktop
Reply #6 -
Feb 17
th
, 2007, 8:18am
A butt joint with worktop bolts is fine for solid wood worktops.
Varnish is not ideal but its too late now. Did you apply several coats of the same finish to the underside and all cut edges, tap holes etc before fixing, if not you will have problems with the worktop bowing and water staining. 150g as a bit on the rough side would be better going to 240g and 320g between coats or grey scotchbrite pad.
Jason
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wretch
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Re: Help with sapelle hardwood worktop
Reply #7 -
Feb 18
th
, 2007, 6:33pm
thanx for the reply jason.
pleased to know the joint is o.k.
by the way i was teasing about the varnish,i've read in the past what you blokes think about it.i did use rustins DANish oil.i found five coats were neccessary but they were thin applied with a rag.the surface is now as waterproof as anyone would need and surprisingly tough.the timber blocks are 600x150 not the usual 40mm and look really smart oiled.the grain is very good.almost black against the reddy brown wood
p.s. don't let the oil dry on sinks or appliances it,s a bugger to shift,i had to use thinners.
best regards
wretch
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TIMBA-WOLF
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Timba-Wolf..... Var@*sh,
should be banned!!
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KENT,(under a tree!!!!)
United Kingdom
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Trade: Joiner
Re: Help with sapelle hardwood worktop
Reply #8 -
Feb 18
th
, 2007, 7:34pm
Quote:
by the way i was teasing about the varnish
AH! good lad!!! nice one!!!
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AS HONEST AND LOYAL AS THE TIMBER-WOLF. --VAR@*SH, DON'T YOU SWEAR AT ME!! PAL!!&&I DON'T SUFFER FROM INSANITY- I DAMNED WELL ENJOY IT!!!!!
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