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cladding
Jun 20th, 2007, 2:08am
 
Hello to all Grin, i am new to this website so please be gentle Wink.

I am replacing a section of my cladded fence, and also adding a gate.
Could you advise me to what screws would be best for fixing the cladding to the fence and to the gate?
Could you also advise me to what fixing would be best for fixing the gate post (6" by 6") to a retaining wall?
Finally could you tell me if it would be ok to use PAR timber for this?

Sorry if these seem like smple qestions but i just dont want to get the wrong materials.
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woodsmith
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Re: cladding
Reply #1 - Jun 20th, 2007, 7:40am
 
Hi, welcome to the forum.


I'd use stainless screws, there is a big range available and they aren't too expensive  look HERE

A 6x6 gatepost would really need half of it burying in a big hole, why not use 6x3 and that is easier to screw to the wall with coach screws?

PAR won't last 5 minutes outside, you need treated tanalised timber, best to get it from a builders merchant or a specialist fencing supplies merchant.

Hope this helps, otherwise ask away Grin

Keith
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Re: cladding
Reply #2 - Jun 20th, 2007, 12:18pm
 
heeelllooo newbie and welcome Grin Grin Grin
you may regret your choice of name by the time you reach 50 posts Roll Eyes Roll Eyes Wink


pretty much what keith says Grin Cheesy

would also like to add treated timber is cheaper and around 6mm bigger for any given size as planeing it smooth and flat removes around 6mm

what size is the gate going to be !!

are you going for a closed design for secutity or a more open desighn!!!

and before attaching anything to a wall you need to satisfy yourself its up to the job but you know that anyway Grin Wink
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« Last Edit: Jun 20th, 2007, 12:24pm by big_all »  

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Re: cladding
Reply #3 - Jun 20th, 2007, 8:37pm
 
Cheers guys  Grin

Yeah wasn't the best username, but i thought it was best to make it clear i am a novice to woodwork. I will probally change my username once i get in to the swing of things Wink

the gate will be about approx 5 feet tall by 2 feet wide. Undecided
It will be uesd to keep the kids in or out depending on how you look at it. So i guess a closed design  Huh

Will any stainless steel screws do so long as they are the right length  Undecided

6x3 will be fine for the gate post fixed to the wall, but the wall is rendered so do you have any tips for getting the post leve Winkl

I will get treated timber as you suggested, but when you say it is 6mm oversized and will need planing to get smooth and flat, do you mean at the timber merchants or by myself (much easier at the merchants i guess  Wink Cheesy)

newbie Grin
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Scrit
Re: cladding
Reply #4 - Jun 20th, 2007, 8:55pm
 
All, how do you manage to plane soaking wet freshly tanalised timber. Round here tanalised is always either freshly treated (I've even had the stuff still warm and steaming from the treatment tank) or soaking wet 'coz they leave it out in all weathers (well, it's treated so it ain't going to rot if it gets wet, izzit?). Just curious  Grin

Scrit
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Re: cladding
Reply #5 - Jun 20th, 2007, 10:01pm
 
I think what BA was saying is that generally tanalised timber is 6mm bigger than PAR for any given size because it hasn't been planed smooth. That said my local builders merchant is now stocking mostly pre-planed tanalised timber Roll Eyes

Scrit just put the timber out in the sun for a few days  Cool.

Quote:
Will any stainless steel screws do so long as they are the right length  


More or less, Pozidrive drive in easy, but slotted are stronger.
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Re: cladding
Reply #6 - Jun 20th, 2007, 10:46pm
 
Quote:
All, how do you manage to plane soaking wet freshly tanalised timber. Round here tanalised is always either freshly treated (I've even had the stuff still warm and steaming from the treatment tank) or soaking wet 'coz they leave it out in all weathers (well, it's treated so it ain't going to rot if it gets wet, izzit?). Just curious  Grin

Scrit



yes sorry about the confusion i was indeed pointing out that if he bought planed timber its smaller and more expensive and not suggesting he does it

thanks for clearing that up keith Grin Grin Grin Wink
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Re: cladding
Reply #7 - Jun 26th, 2007, 3:08am
 
Aright guys Grin,

After reading your replys and doing some research over the weekend i have come up with a plan of attack. Undecided

What if i use 6x3 treated timber for the gate posts fixed with 100mm coach screws M10.
Use 4x2 treated timber to make the gate (two stiles, three rails, and two diagional braces connecting the rails).
Use slotted wood screws for the gate cladding, but i am unsure about what timber size would be best for the cladding.
Use 50mm oval head nails for the weatherboard fence cladding.

What do you think guys does this sound ok? Undecided
Any advice about what size timber to use for the gate cladding? Undecided
Also the guy at the merchants was trying to convince me to use x4 or 4x2 for the gate post does that seem like a good idea (i suppose you would of suggested it if it was)? Undecided

hope you can help Grin
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Re: cladding
Reply #8 - Jun 26th, 2007, 3:28pm
 
am i understanding this right Roll Eyes Roll Eyes

your gate is only 2ft wide x5ft high!!!!!

you need 3x2" or 4x2" screwed to the wall

your gate can be constructed from 3x1treated or 4x1" treated

if your gate is made from 2" timber and its inward opening [which i know its not  Roll Eyes] you will loose 5" of your 24" Wink
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Re: cladding
Reply #9 - Jul 18th, 2007, 9:27pm
 
Hiya,

Not sure if I'm too late with this posting but, with regards screws/fixings, have you heard of and/or considered the Spax screws? They do screws that require an 'Allen Key' type driver bit, but, there's no cam out with the bits.

I've done some fencing/decking recently and used some of them and absolutely love them. They drive in really easily with no pilot holes as the threads are really sharp an therefore cut through the wood better.

Anyway, if you've started then it doesn't matter, but, just an idea.

Sandy.
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Scrit
Re: cladding
Reply #10 - Jul 19th, 2007, 5:33pm
 
woodsmith wrote on Jun 20th, 2007, 10:01pm:
That said my local builders merchant is now stocking mostly pre-planed tanalised timber Roll Eyes

Ere WS, you're area aren't arf posh!  Grin

woodsmith wrote on Jun 20th, 2007, 10:01pm:
Scrit just put the timber out in the sun for a few days  Cool.

I live in the Pennines - you can't guarantee a few days worth of sun, especially in the winter when people seem to want fencing putting in  Lips Sealed

On the treated gate front we have a firm over in Oldham called George Hills who will supply softwood for you to machine then take it back and return it pressure tanalised. Neat way of being able to work timber then post treat. It was only a thought.....

Scrit
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« Last Edit: Jul 19th, 2007, 5:35pm by Scrit »  
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