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Finish for oak window sill (Read 16221 times)
AndyOlds
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Finish for oak window sill
Aug 23rd, 2007, 12:54pm
 
Hi,

Just had a coiuple of new (uPVC  Embarrassed) windows fitted, and we've had light oak sills (or cills??) fitted with them.

The fitters have recommended oiling them (rather than using the dreaded V word).  Any recomendations on what oil to use (I want to darken the wood a bit, to match the oak furniture we have in the same room), how to use it and any other useful advice?

The sills actually go round a couple of internal corners, so are joined here.  There are currently slight gaps at these joins.  Am I best off oiling first, then filling the gaps (what with?), filling first then oiling, or juct getting the fitters back to fill the gaps for me?

All help and avice greatly appreciated.

Cheers,

Andy.
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hammy
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Re: Finish for oak window sill
Reply #1 - Aug 26th, 2007, 9:53am
 
Andy, I don't usually come over to the carpenters section but I see you have had twenty views and no answers yet. I don't usually have much to do with oils and that sort of thing, I think Wolfie is the man you want.

However I will attempt to answer your question.

Raw linseed oil is always good for oak. Oak is a dense wood and linseed oil (raw) takes a long time to dry so has plenty of time to soak in. It will however darken the wood a bit, but as you want that anyway it should be alright.

As regards the gaps on the window board (we are talking inside, aren't we) I suggest brummer stopping. The shop should have a small chart with the different shades available.

Push the brummer into the gap and level it off, Wipe any excess off with a damp cloth.  Thin the first coat of oil with a little white spirit to enable it to soak in and wipe on with a cloth. You can also use a paint brush and then wipe the excess oil off with a cloth.  

Leave to dry (could be a couple of days.)  When dry recoat with oil without thinning.  It is important not to scrunch up and leave any oily
rags lying around, as they can spontaneously combust. Open them out flat and leave in the garden, or better still put in a bucket of water.

If speed of drying is important then I suppose you can use something like Danish oil instead.

I'm not an expert in this, but I hpoe it helps.  If it is wrong we will soon get some more replies.
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CWatters
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Re: Finish for oak window sill
Reply #2 - Aug 26th, 2007, 8:56pm
 
We had our interior oak (stairs, cills and rails) done to match the oak floor. Used OSMO Polyx Oil (Formerly called Hard Wax Oil). It looks great. Very pleased with the results.

http://www.greenshop.co.uk/acatalog/For_Interior_Wood.html

I've since had to repair some damage to a small bit of oak floor and it was very easy. Just brushed on some left over oil. You can't see the difference between old and new. I believe this is the big advantage of oiled finishes.

We also have some oiled oak furniture and that was done using just linseed oil. The finish is different to hard wax oil. Linseed looks like "wet wood" and is matt. The hard wax oil has a more "sealed" or "waxy" look to it.

I recommend you try out both on scraps of wood. Spill some red wine on them and see what happens!  


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AndyOlds
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Whitley bay, United Kingdom
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Re: Finish for oak window sill
Reply #3 - Aug 28th, 2007, 8:27am
 
Hamilton & Cwatters,

Thanks for the replies.  I gotthe window installers to leave e a scrap of the oak they used.  I'll give all your suggestions a try before doing anything permanent to the house!

The red wine test is a very good idea!  My wife has a habit of having little red wine related accidents now and then!

Cheers for the advice.
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Re: Finish for oak window sill
Reply #4 - Aug 28th, 2007, 8:31am
 
that wouldnt be when she is a little tipsy would it?
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AndyOlds
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Re: Finish for oak window sill
Reply #5 - Aug 28th, 2007, 12:03pm
 
That's the one Badger.  Consequently, we bought a red carpet and suite for our living room - if you can't avoid it happening in the first place, at least you can try to hide it!
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