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Wiring in timber frame outbuilding (Read 7199 times)
CWatters
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Wiring in timber frame outbuilding
Sep 17th, 2009, 8:12am
 
I'm building a timber frame outbuilding - basically 2"x4" frame with ply and oak cladding on the outside and OSB or ply inside. I'll obviously be using a Part P electrician to do the electrics but haven't got one lined up yet.

To cut a long story short...Does wiring in this sort of structure have to be done in conduit on the inside or can it be done with bare cable in the frame before the inside is lined with OSB? It makes a difference as to when I get an electrician out.

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Re: Wiring in timber frame outbuilding
Reply #1 - Sep 17th, 2009, 11:40am
 
assuming your using 12mm boards if you drill a 22mm hole dead centre in the 4" you will be 2" away from the face so i believe in a safe zone

dont forget you need to downrate a cable that surrounded by insulation or pinned into position
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big all ---------------  we are all still learning
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wozzy
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Re: Wiring in timber frame outbuilding
Reply #2 - Sep 17th, 2009, 7:54pm
 
obviously conduit would be lovely for rewiring, mechanical reasons, but are these walls or structure going to be any more onerous (is that the correct word?) than a normal stud wall?

Out of curiosity are the walls insulated?
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All advice is at least two years out of date.
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CWatters
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Re: Wiring in timber frame outbuilding
Reply #3 - Sep 18th, 2009, 7:58am
 
Thanks for the replies.

The building will mainly be used for storing mowers and the like. One half will be a potting shed. I guess the most likely loads are a float charger for the mower battery and possibly a low power heater for a seed propagator. Haven't decided if I will insulate the walls yet.

I'm hoping that the electrician will be able to connect into an existing armoured cable that was professionally installed three years ago to power a single garden socket. That currently has it's own 20A RCD in the house CU. If not then things will be a bit harder as my CU is physically full. Lots more to worry about. I think there is quite a long length of 2.5mm ? between the CU and outside wall where it changes to an armoured cable. Haven't yet worked out all the lengths but that could well be a factor I guess.

The building will be fine without the internal boarding so will leave that off until I can get the electrician in. Lots of other work to do on it until then - it still hasn't got a roof.
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Re: Wiring in timber frame outbuilding
Reply #4 - Sep 18th, 2009, 4:48pm
 
CWatters wrote on Sep 18th, 2009, 7:58am:
20A RCD in the house CU.



Didnt realise they made em   Wink
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sparky415
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Re: Wiring in timber frame outbuilding
Reply #5 - Sep 18th, 2009, 6:59pm
 
CW,
A 20 amp supply is probably fine for a socket and a couple of lights but will you be turning it in to something else in the future (office/workshop)?
Can you access the outside of the SWA?
With any luck you will be able to see the size of the cable (3 x 4mm for example)
How long is the run?

If you do have to run a new cable you will have room in the fuse board when the old cable comes out  Smiley

If I'm concerned about my cables in stud walls, although they are in the safe zones
(kitchen for example) I will sometimes nail on some 'safe plates' so the kitchen fitters don't get too carried away   Wink
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CWatters
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Re: Wiring in timber frame outbuilding
Reply #6 - Sep 19th, 2009, 2:36pm
 
sparky415 wrote on Sep 18th, 2009, 6:59pm:
CW,
A 20 amp supply is probably fine for a socket and a couple of lights but will you be turning it in to something else in the future (office/workshop)?Wink


No it's just a garden store/potting shed.

Quote:
Can you access the outside of the SWA?
With any luck you will be able to see the size of the cable (3 x 4mm for example) How long is the run?


Just uncovered a section and unfortunately it looks like 2.5mm. It's marked 3 x 2.5. So existing circuit looks like this..

20A RCD (or do I mean an RCBO?) in house CU
approx 18 meters of 2.5mm to get to outside wall
Junction box inside
approx 20 meter armoured cable marked 3 x 2.5
Single 13A MK masterseal socket

If that were to be extended to the new building by the most obvious route the armoured cable would be approx 43 meters (gulp) making a total of around 61 meters each way in 2.5 mm.

Google says the resistance of 122 meters of 2.5mm is around 0.87 Ohms.  At 20A that's a voltage drop of 17V which I think is more than you are allowed? Oh bother.

If the cable took a short cut across the lawn the total length would be a bit shorter at around 55-56 meters each way.  Resistance would be 0.8 for a 16V drop so I don't think that works either.

Am I thinking on the right lines or have I missed something?

Quote:
If you do have to run a new cable you will have room in the fuse board when the old cable comes out  Smiley


Ah yes hadn't thought of that. I guess I could disconnect the old one.

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« Last Edit: Sep 19th, 2009, 2:37pm by CWatters »  
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CWatters
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Re: Wiring in timber frame outbuilding
Reply #7 - Sep 19th, 2009, 2:45pm
 
In an ideal world I'm looking to have two sockets and three lights out there. I know what we want to use the sockets for won't take anything like 20A total but what do I have to allow for?
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Re: Wiring in timber frame outbuilding
Reply #8 - Sep 19th, 2009, 4:15pm
 
Its probably an RCBO,

Sounds like you will need a new SWA mate
You can please yourself with what you allow for
Personally I would put in a 6mm 3 core (4mm min)
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