customer asked me to have a look at there gate opener
manufacturer is "came"

cust says not worked for a while,i switched unit off and on, tried the key fob and the relays clicked a few times and heard what sounded like the motor turning ,
(the gate was in the "manually operated" mode where you can open and shut the gate by hand, (orange switch picture 4) if switch turned the other way it sets it back to motor only)
key fob didnt seem to do anything after that,i reset the unit,tested for power going to the motor,-
there are 3 connections
w v u
w-brown
v-black
u blue

i got 230v between v + u
nothing on the brown at all
black to earth on the motor 170v
blue to earth on motor 170v

could have been a bad earth most likely
but
what does the brown do ??

picture 3 -you can see the green connector with uvw connections- 3 core +earth flex to motor terminals in connector block in picture 4

is the brown ment to be powered ??
i checked controll fuses in unit,they were fine

of course lec -a live to open and one to close

there are 2 small bollard IR beams in the customers garden,im guessing entry from the road via key fob then the ir beams detect the car and close the gate,when i swiped my hand accross the "beam" they clicked so they seem to register

where would the thermal cutouts on the motor be located ?

with the gate in manual mode i.e the motor disconectd from the swing arm i could hear movement in the motor box after pushing the key fob, when i put the box into automatic mode i.e the gate should only open with the key fob-- there was no turning noise heard from the motor box but i was getting power to the motor ??

Starting capacitor?

thanks for the replys

lec-its just one motor

i am going to go out in the next day or 2 for a better look,i was there doing another job and was asked to look at the gate whilst there

i will update when i have another look

IR beams are very narrow, and can't really help to protect people.

New gates do need to have cutouts on motor slight motor overloads caused by obstruction, and you actually have to use a tester to test the compression force and record it on a certificate!  Not that I have had to do this, but have spoken with a spark who has.

i got back to the job a few days ago with some time for a better look

the limit switches were out,loose on the spindle, properly adjusted them and tightened up,reset the gate control pack,a push of the key fob and it opened ,,but wouldnt close with the key fob
i checked the 2 safety sensors on the "road side" of the gate,one of the sensors had burned out on the circuit board
the other side was the master unit with the contacts -common and NC were used.i linked them out,and bingo a closing gate
new sensors required for the customer

thanks for the previous input