wozzer
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As an apprentice (many years ago) I was taught to make joints in solid domestic cables using a wrap & solder technique. The joint had to be mechanically good (tight) before soldering. The joints were wrapped using smooth-jaw pliers, the copper was not allowed to be scratched or otherwise marked. In-line joints and "tee" joints were both taught. The final proviso was that the core insulation had to be replaced to the same thickness as the original and then the outer sheath to the same thickness as original. Back in the day, this was done using self-amalgamating tape to build up with a final overwrap of PVC, stretched slightly as it was applied. Ring terminations for the core ends were made using smooth-jaw round nose pliers (which I still have!).
I too own a 1950's vintage 150-Watt Henley-Solon Iron (brilliant bit of kit) I can solder 1/8" piano wire with it (model Aircraft) - god knows what I'll do when the element eventually fails....
All in all, it would be possible to do the jointing this way, but veeerrry time consuming. I have used "maintenance free" joints (crimped connections and resin potted) on cables up to 95 mm and 4 cores (I am a Maintenance spark in the North Sea), but again these are bulky and time-consuming.
If I can't talk the gentleman out of moving the CU, then I think I'll have to go down the Industrial JB route. Choice of terminal type will be important, so I'd probably opt for the barrier strip type if I can get them suitably rated, and make ring loops on the cores or Weidmuller SAK6 if not.
The link was interesting, so thanks for that!
I hold a current 17th Edition C&G certificate, even though the 17th doesn't actually apply offshore (Marine & Vessels regs apply out there, but we use 17th as "Best Practice")
It is, in truth, a situation I have never encountered, I was pretty sure the regs don't make any specific demands, so wondered what everyone else did.
Thanks again.
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