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Wiring Shed / Garden (Read 23985 times)
Adama
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Wiring Shed / Garden
Oct 17th, 2004, 8:15pm
 
Hello everyone, this is my first post and I wonder if anyone can help me.

I'm about to embark on wiring up my shed and garden. I've done plenty of wiring in my house such as light fittings, extra sockets etc, but this is my first "big" project. I have my plan sorted, but I just want to run it by this forum to ensure what I plan is correct, legal and safe.

My father-in-law gave me the basic outline of a plan (he's a proper spark) and donated a load of armoured cable and I'm about to set it in motion, but he's away on a big cruise now so can't run my plan by him at the moment.

Originally when we made up the plan, I told him my existing consumer unit was full, so he told me I would either have to replace it with a new split board or alternatively, buy a small RCD protected CU and wire that into my main CU, then wire up to my shed from that second CU.

Now it transpires that I do actually have a spare way on my CU (which is not a split board). So, here's my plan.

The donated cable I can't really identify a size (because I'm too thick to work it out...) it's AEI BS5467 600/1000V 4-core cable with an overall diameter of 20mm - each core has a diameter of about 4mm, but each core is made up of 7 copper wires, each with a diameter of about 1mm - so would this be 6mm cable?

I plan on having 4 radial circuits on new a CU in my shed - 3 lighting circuits with 6A MCB's and 1 socket circuit 16A MCB.

The first radial lighting circuit will go out of the shed along the wall down the side of a side passage and will serve a 10A MK Weatherproof 1 gang 1 way switch which in turn will provide power to 3 x 60W bulkhead lights along the wall. The cable run to the switch will be about 7.5m then the lights are at 2.5m intervals giving a total radial length of 15m. I plan on using 1.0mm cable in conduit along the wall.

The second radial lighting circuit will purely provide for two overhead lights in the shed. Both are 60W lights with pull cords (reusing two bathroom lights that I have replaced). Total cable run will only be about 4m from the CU, so I plan to wire along the shed roof in trunking, again using 1.0mm cable.

I realise that there is nothing stopping me combining these two circuits but I'm happy to keep them separate for ease of maintenance and to in fact, make my cabling runs less complicated.

The third radial lighting circuit will employ 3 metres of cable through the shed wall to an MK Masterseal 2 gang 1 way 10A single pole weatherproof switch which will separately control a water feature from one switch (12W / 3A) and as many as 4 outdoor spotlights (50W each) from the other. From the shed CU to the switch I was planning on using 1.0mm cable. From the weatherproof switch to the position of the water feature / lights is about 15m and I will be utilising the 4-core armoured cable again for this run, terminating in some sort of junction box (not decided yet - any advice?). I'm hoping to utilise the two live wires separately for the two systems and sharing the neutral and earth. (i.e. L1 supplies to the fountain, L2 supplies to the 4 spot lights, N and E common) so that I can switch the lights and the fountain separately through the one cable run. Am I okay to do this?!?

Finally, the fourth radial circuit would purely provide a double socket, 1 will be used by a tumble dryer (which says on it 250W - 2900W MAX) and the other socket will be used for either a lawnmower 1.15kW or a strimmer 250W with potentially both sockets being used at the same time. I had initially planned to use a 16A MCB for that circuit, but according to the TLC calculator, there is a potential maximum load of 17.39A so should I use a 20A MCB for this circuit instead of the 16A? The cable run will be no more than 2 meters in trunking. I am planning on using 2.5mm cable here.

All of this would be protected by a 40A 30mA RCD (correct size given the information above?) in the consumer unit in the shed.

From the house to the shed I would be running about 8-10 meters of the 4-core armoured cable clipped to the wall. I am planning on attaching it directly to my existing house CU on the spare with utilising a 40A MCB - this is probably the part I am most unsure of - as two people have told me that I should have an RCD at the house end too which would probably entail exchanging my existing CU with a split board (or can I get a 1 unit width RCD to go in my existing CU and supply outside without having a split board CU??).  Two other people have told me that I don't need an RCD at the house end. This would be my preferred method, just an MCB protected circuit heading outside via the armoured cable to the shed CU which has the RCD protection. If someone could clearly lay out my options and the preferred solution to this part of the plan I would be very grateful.

Oh, I am also (on advice) considering that the armoured cable from the house to the shed stops just outside the shed at an industrial socket (such as http://www.tlc-direct.co.uk/Products/GW240slash63slash3S.html) then having a fly lead from that into the shed CU which would be about 2 meters cable - but I'm not sure what cable I would need to build this fly lead from - can't really find any flex that is heavy duty enough (can only find 4.0mm 32A flex) and twin and earth would be impractical for this... but the idea of being able to detach the shed and therefore also isolate the 4 circuits and the CU merely by removing the fly-lead has it's plus points. Any thoughts on this?

Well, that's a whole lot of text, but I hope it's a well-thought out plan. Any offers of advice or encouragement that the plan is sound would be great. Thanks for your time!

Adama
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LSpark
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Re: Wiring Shed / Garden
Reply #1 - Oct 18th, 2004, 12:29am
 
Hey Adama

Very Long post!

Quote:
The donated cable I can't really identify a size (because I'm too thick to work it out...) it's AEI BS5467 600/1000V 4-core cable with an overall diameter of 20mm - each core has a diameter of about 4mm, but each core is made up of 7 copper wires, each with a diameter of about 1mm - so would this be 6mm cable?


No idea, but unlikely 6mm cable by sound of it

You sound like you have it all worked out, a few points to note, make sure you have in the house protecting all this, ensure you only rate the circuit in the house at 16A, unless you can be sure what size cable it is?

If not then this is your first problem, it sounds like a big system your trying to install here...Im also seriously concerned that it may be best left for when he gets back..
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The_Trician
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Re: Wiring Shed / Garden
Reply #2 - Oct 18th, 2004, 12:43am
 
Hi
Just a few quick observations.
Sounds like your donated SWA is only 2.5 or 4mm at the most.
You should on no account use a 40A mcb to protect this from the huse CU. Stick to a 20A mcb at the most.

You mentioned using a common neutral to some of your sub-circuits - this is NOT permitted, unless it is done to run more than one light from the same switch or mcb.

Shared Neutrals are dangerous.

Good luck

TT
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Re: Wiring Shed / Garden
Reply #3 - Oct 18th, 2004, 11:21am
 
Thanks for your time and answers guys. I would in fact only be performing the mechanics of buying the bits and cabling the shed, wall, garden. I wouldn't attempt to hook it finally to the house without getting everything checked over properly first.

How about my questions of the fly lead going to the shed CU? What sort of cable should I use to go from the industrial plug / socket to the CU (some sort of flex? rather than t&e)?

And the RCD in the shed, would 40A 30mA trip be sufficient or is that in fact too high, given that I would be protecting the overall circuit at the house end with a 16A/20A MCB?

Finally - over the shared neutral thing - does this mean realistically then that I sill have to either run my armoured cable up the garden then have the switches at the far end of the garden, or then run more cable back to the house from the far end of the garden just so I can have the switch at the shed end?

Of course, if I had the lights and fountain come on together this wouldn't be a problem, but my wife would rather have them switched independently.

Thanks for your help,
Adama
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LSpark
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Re: Wiring Shed / Garden
Reply #4 - Oct 18th, 2004, 12:00pm
 
Quote:
How about my questions of the fly lead going to the shed CU? What sort of cable should I use to go from the industrial plug / socket to the CU (some sort of flex? rather than t&e)?


This fly lead you want is from a CEE/C Form type industrial plug and socket?

For reference the plugs and sockets are coloured by voltage e.g.

Red = 400V
Blue = 230V
Yellow = 100V

You would want a blue plug and socket, these come in 16A\32A\63A, '32A' is really your only option

Twin and Earth cable is unsuitable for using on plugs, I suggest 4mm Flex, this would go well with your 32A plug and socket.

Quote:
And the RCD in the shed, would 40A 30mA trip be sufficient or is that in fact too high, given that I would be protecting the overall circuit at the house end with a 16A/20A MCB?


There are two ratings on the RCD, one is a current rating, this is the current the RCD will take safely, this is 40A, however this does not mean the RCD will trip and 40A, it will just burn out because it is not like a fuse or MCB

The second rating is a trip rating, this is 30mA, 30mA is the standard rating for supplementary protection against direct contact, e.g. electric shock.

This RCD would be suitable, but don't treat it like a fuse, it must be combined with a fuse to protect the shed.


Quote:
Finally - over the shared neutral thing - does this mean realistically then that I sill have to either run my armoured cable up the garden then have the switches at the far end of the garden, or then run more cable back to the house from the far end of the garden just so I can have the switch at the shed end?


Il leave that for trician to explain, however you should have no problem using a 4-cored cable for multiple controll, as long as it is served via 1 protective device, and nothing is a sub circuit from this.

protective devices = fuse/miniture circuit breaker etc
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« Last Edit: Oct 18th, 2004, 12:01pm by LSpark »  
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ban-all-sheds
Re: Wiring Shed / Garden
Reply #5 - Oct 18th, 2004, 3:00pm
 
[quote author=Adama  link=1098040520/0#0 date=1098040520] Originally when we made up the plan, I told him my existing consumer unit was full, so he told me I would either have to replace it with a new split board or alternatively, buy a small RCD protected CU and wire that into my main CU, then wire up to my shed from that second CU. [/quote]
I'm not sure he did tell you that - why would he tell you to wire a second CU in to your main CU as a way round the fact that your main CU was full?   Where would you connect it?

Quote:
Now it transpires that I do actually have a spare way on my CU (which is not a split board). So, here's my plan.

Does it have any RCD protection?

Quote:
The donated cable I can't really identify a size (because I'm too thick to work it out...) it's AEI BS5467 600/1000V 4-core cable with an overall diameter of 20mm

The 4-core SWA that TLC sell:

6mm²: 18.3mm O.D.
10mm²: 20.3mm O.D.

Quote:
- each core has a diameter of about 4mm,

4mm dia = 2mm radius, therefore 12.58mm²

Quote:
but each core is made up of 7 copper wires, each with a diameter of about 1mm - so would this be 6mm cable?

1mm dia = 0.5mm radius, therefore 0.785mm² x 7 = 5.49mm²

What are you using to measure the various diameters you have quoted?

Quote:
From the weatherproof switch to the position of the water feature / lights is about 15m and I will be utilising the 4-core armoured cable again for this run, terminating in some sort of junction box (not decided yet - any advice?).

You will struggle to terminate SWA inside the box of the Masterseal switch, so you'll need to have a suitable adaptable box at both ends.

Quote:
I'm hoping to utilise the two live wires separately for the two systems and sharing the neutral and earth. (i.e. L1 supplies to the fountain, L2 supplies to the 4 spot lights, N and E common) so that I can switch the lights and the fountain separately through the one cable run. Am I okay to do this?!?

I don't see anything wrong with this - it is not a "borrowed neutral" and I'm not sure what TT is concerned about - it's just the same as a normal lighting circuit - one original live feed, many switched lives and one neutral.

Quote:
Finally, the fourth radial circuit would purely provide a double socket, 1 will be used by a tumble dryer (which says on it 250W - 2900W MAX) and the other socket will be used for either a lawnmower 1.15kW or a strimmer 250W with potentially both sockets being used at the same time.

NO - you cannot do this - a double socket is rated at 13A, not 26A, so if you want to use the lawnmower and the T/D at the same time, then you must buy a petrol mower or fit two sockets.

Quote:
I had initially planned to use a 16A MCB for that circuit, but according to the TLC calculator, there is a potential maximum load of 17.39A so should I use a 20A MCB for this circuit instead of the 16A?

Yup - 20A breaker on a 2.5mm² radial.

Quote:
All of this would be protected by a 40A 30mA RCD (correct size given the information above?) in the consumer unit in the shed.

That would be fine.

Quote:
From the house to the shed I would be running about 8-10 meters of the 4-core armoured cable clipped to the wall. I am planning on attaching it directly to my existing house CU on the spare with utilising a 40A MCB

More struggles - you'd find it much easier to terminate the SWA in a box, and run 6mm² T/E into the CU.

Quote:
- this is probably the part I am most unsure of - as two people have told me that I should have an RCD at the house end too

No - you do not need, and do not want, an RCD at the house end as well.

Quote:
which would probably entail exchanging my existing CU with a split board (or can I get a 1 unit width RCD to go in my existing CU and supply outside without having a split board CU??).

Depending on the make of board you might be able to get a single-module RCBO, but as I said, you really don't need an RCD at the house end.

However, you might like to consider replacing the CU with a split-load one anyway - do you never use any of the ground floor sockets to supply equipment outdoors?

Quote:
Two other people have told me that I don't need an RCD at the house end. This would be my preferred method, just an MCB protected circuit heading outside via the armoured cable to the shed CU which has the RCD protection. If someone could clearly lay out my options and the preferred solution to this part of the plan I would be very grateful.


40A MCB - 6mm² T/E to metal box - SWA to metal box - 6mm T/E to shed CU.

Quote:
Oh, I am also (on advice) considering that the armoured cable from the house to the shed stops just outside the shed at an industrial socket (such as http://www.tlc-direct.co.uk/Products/GW240slash63slash3S.html) then having a fly lead from that into the shed CU which would be about 2 meters cable - but I'm not sure what cable I would need to build this fly lead from - can't really find any flex that is heavy duty enough (can only find 4.0mm 32A flex) and twin and earth would be impractical for this... but the idea of being able to detach the shed and therefore also isolate the 4 circuits and the CU merely by removing the fly-lead has it's plus points. Any thoughts on this?

My thoughts are that if you want to be able to isolate the shed (I'm sure you have your reasons), and you want to do it frequently enough not to use the MCB at the house, then you should supply the shed via a switch-fuse in the house, and isolate from there.


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Adama
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Re: Wiring Shed / Garden
Reply #6 - Oct 18th, 2004, 3:40pm
 
[quote author=ban-all-sheds  link=1098040520/0#5 date=1098108007]
I'm not sure he did tell you that - why would he tell you to wire a second CU in to your main CU as a way round the fact that your main CU was full?   Where would you connect it?
[/quote]

Well, this was floated as an option because I pulled a face at having to replace the CU - the idea being to add a little 2 way RCD protected CU (garage type) - effectively a split board made out of two CU's rather than being 1 unit - of course he did tell me that this wasn't a great idea but was possible (said it was possible to wire them correctly but at that stage I wasn't taking detailed notes). I just thought it would be a lot easier than replacing the CU. Of course, now that I find I have a spare way on my CU then this is no longer being considered.


Quote:
Does it have any RCD protection?

No, my house CU doesn't have any RCD protection.


Quote:
The 4-core SWA that TLC sell:

6mm²: 18.3mm O.D.
10mm²: 20.3mm O.D.

4mm dia = 2mm radius, therefore 12.58mm²

1mm dia = 0.5mm radius, therefore 0.785mm² x 7 = 5.49mm²

What are you using to measure the various diameters you have quoted?

Admittedly, I do not have a micrometer, so I'm estimating using a rather scientific 30p plastic ruler!  Smiley


Quote:
You will struggle to terminate SWA inside the box of the Masterseal switch, so you'll need to have a suitable adaptable box at both ends.

Any suggestions?  Smiley


Quote:
NO - you cannot do this - a double socket is rated at 13A, not 26A, so if you want to use the lawnmower and the T/D at the same time, then you must buy a petrol mower or fit two sockets.

Not a problem - is probably better anyway as I can have the sockets at either end of the shed then which would be more flexible for me.


Quote:
However, you might like to consider replacing the CU with a split-load one anyway - do you never use any of the ground floor sockets to supply equipment outdoors?

I do at the moment on a standard RCD plug adapter, but once I have my outside (shed) sockets, I won't need to do that any more.


Quote:
My thoughts are that if you want to be able to isolate the shed (I'm sure you have your reasons), and you want to do it frequently enough not to use the MCB at the house, then you should supply the shed via a switch-fuse in the house, and isolate from there.

Well, I suppose I can isolate it easily enough at the MCB at the house - just saves me taking my muddy gardening boots off etc if I can isolate it from outside - though I guess I don't need to isolate it on a regular basis.

Thanks for your time, my plan is now getting nicely fine tuned.

Adama
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Re: Wiring Shed / Garden
Reply #7 - Oct 18th, 2004, 5:05pm
 
Use a weatherproof box, available from screwfix with knockouts (easier but dearer) or a standard adaptable box (needs drilling, but cheaper and can look neater with no other knockouts visable.  Make sure you're happy with terminating SWA & using a brass bolt through the hole in the banjo to earth the armour.  If not, leave this bit to a sparky.
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