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Kiln vs Seasoned Oak - plus best place for plans?! (Read 8786 times)
bik038
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Kiln vs Seasoned Oak - plus best place for plans?!
Oct 25th, 2006, 10:33am
 
Morning all,

My wife is expecting in March  Grin and I've managed to persuade her that it would be great for me to build a cot and chest of drawers / changing unit for the nursery.

Not the fun starts...!   Roll Eyes  I've made some small-scale furniture before so this is quite ambitious for me - I'm really keen to give it a go though.

Firstly...

Kiln vs Seasoned oak - what's the benefits of kiln over seasoned (ie air dried)?  I have been talking to woodbypost.fsnet.co.uk - their prices are very reasonable but their oak is seasoned down to around 12% rather than being kiln dried.  If I bring some of this home and keep it in the garage / coldish room then will it naturally reduce moisture content to single figures?  Or could I go ahead and make the furniture with a content of 12%?

Also, what kind of finish would you guys recommend for the wood, considering that a baby might try to eat it...!  Some kind of natural wax?

Thirdly, I'm looking at buying one of the 'worktop' planer / thicknessers.  There is a charnwood and a sip version - both under £200 on ebay brand new and they both handle up to 4" x 6".  Should be fine for what I need it for, but has anyone here got any good / bad experiences from them?

Finally (!), does anyone have advice for the bext place to go for plans?  I am going to go to John Lewis, Mothercare etc to get ideas and inspiration on designs and ways to build the furniture, but it would also be good to get hold of some woodworking plans.  I've done some searches on the net but not overly successful...

Many thanks

Gary
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jasonB
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Re: Kiln vs Seasoned Oak - plus best place for pla
Reply #1 - Oct 25th, 2006, 12:53pm
 
As this will be your first major project and there is a time constraint I would go for kiln dried timber for two main reasons.

1.Air dried will at best have a 12% MC, this will not come down much more in a garage or unheated room. In a centrally heated enviroment the MC will fluctuate throughout the year but will come down to around 7%, you will need to get your airdried timber to theis level by leaving it stacked with spacers in a heated room for several months. Even with kiln dried it is worth aclimitising it for a few weeks.

2. Airdried timber will move when bought inside so any design will have to take this movement into account and all joints and construction made to allow for this especially avoiding cross grain situations.

An oil and wax would be the best finish but check the products are OK with children

Not had much experience with the small benchtop units, you may get more responce if you ask here also search the buying advice forum.

The above site has a links section that includes several "free" plans sites, you could also have a look at the New Yankee plans fromBrimarc

Jason
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woodsmith
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Re: Kiln vs Seasoned Oak - plus best place for pla
Reply #2 - Oct 25th, 2006, 6:13pm
 
If you store timber in an unheated garage it'll be about 16%MC in no time, well mine is anyway. As Jason said it would be best to store it in the house, I would also go for kiln dried for this sort of project.

Chestnut and Liberon finishing oils are both certified "toy safe" so should be fine for you.

I would go for the SIP in preference to the Charnwood, the SIP has a 2 year guarantee and SIP have really improved their quality in the last few years.

I've had a look  but couldn't find any specific plans for what you are intending to make, cribs, beds and bunk beds but not a combined unit Sad
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jasonB
Re: Kiln vs Seasoned Oak - plus best place for pla
Reply #3 - Oct 25th, 2006, 6:29pm
 
I interpreted it as a cot and separate a chest of draws with a top for baby changing.

Jason
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Re: Kiln vs Seasoned Oak - plus best place for pla
Reply #4 - Oct 25th, 2006, 6:34pm
 
Quote:
I interpreted it as a cot and separate a chest of draws with a top for baby changing.

Jason


Ahhh Roll Eyes

I couldn't find a cot either but there are plenty of designs for a chest of drawers.
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bik038
Re: Kiln vs Seasoned Oak - plus best place for pla
Reply #5 - Oct 25th, 2006, 6:36pm
 
Just to clarify it IS a separate cot and chest of drawers, not a combined unit.

The issue with Kiln dried timber is (obviously!) cost...!  The quote for 8 cubic feet of timber from woodbypost was about £180.  I priced up the wood i needed from slhardwoods.co.uk (PAR Oak) and it came to about £600 or more.  Ouch...

So, this leads to the question - would it be a WASTE OF TIME and TOO RISKY to go ahead with air dried timber, left indoors for a few weeks before using?  I don't want to spend all that time crafting the furniture only for it to warp, but surely (he says optimistically...!) there won't be too much warping on 1" stock?

The issue with spending £600 on oak (and buying a thicknesser planer) is that the "wife" hurdle may be hard to overcome!!  

Where does everyone buy their timber from?  Any suggestions for local (or not so local) suppliers near Potters Bar, Herts (J24 of M25) would be greatly appreciated!

Thanks

Gary
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Re: Kiln vs Seasoned Oak - plus best place for pla
Reply #6 - Oct 25th, 2006, 9:54pm
 
Quote:
The quote for 8 cubic feet of timber from woodbypost was about £180.


Thats £22.50 per cubic foot, that must be sawn timber, do you plan to machine the timber yourself? You would need some reasonably serious machinery to do so.

I occasionally use air dried timber because I know a local farmer who has a barn full of oak and ash, but it takes me ages to machine it all up, plus sometimes there can be as much as 50% wastage. This is why kiln dried is so much more expensive.

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jasonB
Re: Kiln vs Seasoned Oak - plus best place for pla
Reply #7 - Oct 26th, 2006, 8:12am
 
Quote:
do you plan to machine the timber yourself


Could be why he asked about the sip P/T Wink Smiley

Another source for prepared boards is solid oak flooring, I tend to use this quite a bit as it works out around £40 a cubic foot for 22mm finished size. Almost cheaper than buying sawn and no time factor for preparing it except ripping off the T&G. Still give it a week or two to settle down.

All the oak cabinets in thiskitchen are done with it as are the units in thisbathroom and thisone as well.

Jason
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« Last Edit: Oct 26th, 2006, 8:13am by jasonB »  
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bik038
Re: Kiln vs Seasoned Oak - plus best place for pla
Reply #8 - Oct 26th, 2006, 9:40am
 
Quote:
Quote:
do you plan to machine the timber yourself


Could be why he asked about the sip P/T Wink Smiley

Another source for prepared boards is solid oak flooring, I tend to use this quite a bit as it works out around £40 a cubic foot for 22mm finished size. Almost cheaper than buying sawn and no time factor for preparing it except ripping off the T&G. Still give it a week or two to settle down.

All the oak cabinets in thiskitchen are done with it as are the units in thisbathroom and thisone as well.

Jason


Thanks for the info, Jason.  Very impressive furniture - it looks amazing.  If my cot is half as good as that my baby should sleep well...!!

Where's the best place to get solid oak flooring from?  

I'd need to buy (ideally) oak flooring without T&G and without a finish on it - this isn't the sort of stuff you can pop into Wickes or B&Q and buy...!!

I was going to buy a thicknesser planer to machine the seasoned timber, but I'm not seriously reconsidering that option, based on the feedback on this forum.  If I'm going to end up wasting a fair bit then maybe I should bite the bullet and go for oak flooring timber - if it's about £40 per cubit foot then it's almost twice as expensive but should be much more stable and have less waste.

I'm still hoping someone else is going to pop up and say it will be fine to use air dried oak...still waiting...!!

This might seem like a daft question but if everything said above is true then why would anyone buy air dried timber?  If it's prone to warping then would it only be purchased for projects outdoors?  Or would it be people with their own kiln that would purchase it and kiln dry it themselves before using (I can't imagine many carpenters have their own kiln?!).  I'd still really like to go to the timber yard and pick up some of the timber he has - just to play around and experiment with.
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Re: Kiln vs Seasoned Oak - plus best place for pla
Reply #9 - Oct 26th, 2006, 4:19pm
 
Quote:
I'd need to buy (ideally) oak flooring without T&G and without a finish on it - this isn't the sort of stuff you can pop into Wickes or B&Q and buy...!!


Try reclimation? My local reclaimed materials yard is solopark..

http://www.solopark.co.uk/

They have reclaimed flooring and the like that would probably be suitable for furniture.  .
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Scrit
Re: Kiln vs Seasoned Oak - plus best place for pla
Reply #10 - Oct 26th, 2006, 6:09pm
 
Quote:
I'm still hoping someone else is going to pop up and say it will be fine to use air dried oak...still waiting...!!

You might be waiting for a while, then. Over the last 40 odd years almost every house in the country has gone over to central heating, so the MC in timber within houses has dropped from a highish 10 to 13% that we used to see in coal-heated houses in wet old Lancashire to 6 to 8% typical in centrally-heated dwellings. However, there are still many projects where air dried is required, such as replacing timbers in buildings, renovation and restoration, etc.

Quote:
Or would it be people with their own kiln that would purchase it and kiln dry it themselves before using (I can't imagine many carpenters have their own kiln?!)

Actually I used to have an Ebac LD82 kiln at one time, and I must know 3 or 4 other people who still own and use a small dehumidifier-type kiln, so not as uncommon as you might imagine amongst hardwood workers. Joiners doing exterior work, such as doors, gates, etc (and that is a great part of the joinery trade) don't need to kiln air dried any further as their stuff is going to be ouitside - those working on interior fitments, furniture, etc., do. The biggest problem for a merchant is that hardwoods are expensive (your £22 / cubic foot on oak is actually pretty good) so the time it stays on the rack after kilning affects it MC - even if you kiln to 8%, leaving timber on a rack in an unheated shed in a Pennine autumn or winter would see you back at equilibrium with the surrounding air (12 to 14% or possibly higher MC) in a matter of weeks. That means the only way you'll get timber from a merchant at low MC levels is generally either to buy from the largest merchants, the ones with their own kilning facilities (such as John Boddy) or those who ship such vast quantities into the manufacturing trades and who consequently always have fresh stock which doesn't hang around long enough to reabsorb atmospheric moisture (such as Timbmet). For this reason some of use always take a wood moisture meter when visiting timber yards.

Scrit
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jasonB
Re: Kiln vs Seasoned Oak - plus best place for pla
Reply #11 - Oct 28th, 2006, 11:46am
 
There are plenty of places selling solid oak flooring, usually from France or Eastern Europe, I would try to get the French as its beter quality.

If the supplier is willing to let you sort through the boards you should be able to pick our fairly knot free ones so keeping waste to a minimum. With the knots left in it look like this

The boards I get come 7,9 & 11 inches wide and are finished 22m thick which is a lot better than 1" nominal boards that will likely end up about 18-19mm once prepared. Although kiln dried they are stored in a barn so still worth giving them a few weeks to settle.

I would avoid reclained boards as they will probably need a pass through a thicknesser and may have nail holes if face fixed and you will be paying a premium for wide boards. They may also have been stored in open buildings so the MC may well have risen.

Not much on their site but this is who I use http://www.scottimber.co.uk/

Jason
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« Last Edit: Oct 28th, 2006, 11:48am by jasonB »  
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