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tiling wooden floors (Read 8295 times)
senor_j
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tiling wooden floors
Nov 27th, 2006, 2:34pm
 
hello all.
can i have some advice on tiling wooden floors please?
I plan to tile throughout a hallway to a kitchen,
over a combination of patched up floor boards and 18mm board.
What is the ideal depth for the board i will tile on to? 6mm?
Hardboard or ply?
Also,can anyone recommend a flexible tile adhesive?one that goes off quick - if there is such a thing!
Any other advice greatly appreciated .
Thanks.
J.
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Simes
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Re: tiling wooden floors
Reply #1 - Nov 27th, 2006, 5:33pm
 
Hi
I use a product called 'Hardibacker' to really good effect. It's designed specifically for the task.
Comes in 6mm for floors and 12 mm for shower walls etc. Sheet size is 900 x 1500 for about £15.
Info: http://www.pureadhesion.co.uk/product/172/hardibacker%20250%20(6mm%20floors)

For the adhesive, just ask the tile shop for "flexible rapid" in 10 or 20 kg bags, drymix.

It's worth using flexible grout too, or put a flex additive in to your chosen grout. Any good tile shop will give you advice on the products they sell.
Good luck!

Cheers, Simes.
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« Last Edit: Nov 27th, 2006, 5:38pm by Simes »  
 
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jasonB
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Re: tiling wooden floors
Reply #2 - Nov 27th, 2006, 5:36pm
 
Make sure all the existing boards are screwed down firmly to the joists. Then overboard with a minimum of 12mm WBP ply screwed to the old boards at 200mm centers (25mm screws into pre countersunk holes)

Something like BAL Rapidset Flexible will do the job and can take light foor traffic after about 3hrs. Use a flexible grout as well, BAL Superflex wide joint grout is what I usually go for. You should be able to get these from a decent tile shop or your local Topps Tiles will have them.

Jason
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senor_j
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Re: tiling wooden floors
Reply #3 - Nov 28th, 2006, 3:04pm
 
thanks very much for the advice.
i think I will board it with the ply, as it's quite a large area it could be very costly with the hardibacker,
though i may give it a whirl in the bathroom!
cheers.
J.
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Simes
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Re: tiling wooden floors
Reply #4 - Nov 28th, 2006, 11:43pm
 
I'd give the ply a couple of coats of pva before you lay the tiles.
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jasonB
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Re: tiling wooden floors
Reply #5 - Nov 29th, 2006, 8:02am
 
DO NOT use PVA unless the adhesive maker specifically advises it. Read this

Jason
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senor_j
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Re: tiling wooden floors
Reply #6 - Nov 29th, 2006, 2:11pm
 
Thanks for that Jason.
will deffo check with BAL.
J.
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TIMBA-WOLF
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Re: tiling wooden floors
Reply #7 - Nov 29th, 2006, 10:28pm
 
a very good pointer there JasonB, and a small bit of Hedumakashun too!!!!


interesting ...thanks!!!

having had this arguement before with someone, and NOT being able to stated why i never pva ply!!!

now i can give substance to my arguement!
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AS HONEST AND LOYAL AS THE TIMBER-WOLF. --VAR@*SH, DON'T YOU SWEAR AT ME!! PAL!!&&I DON'T SUFFER FROM INSANITY- I DAMNED WELL ENJOY IT!!!!!
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jasonB
Re: tiling wooden floors
Reply #8 - Nov 30th, 2006, 4:11pm
 
It's a hands link to send people to.

Can't take the credit for it, Alan at AT Stone is our occasional visitor "Mudster"

Jason
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CWatters
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Re: tiling wooden floors
Reply #9 - Dec 11th, 2006, 5:58pm
 
My carp has been fitting Hardibacker to ort bathroom/shower.. He's found it blunts jigsaw blades real fast. Used about 20 so far!
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TIMBA-WOLF
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Re: tiling wooden floors
Reply #10 - Dec 11th, 2006, 7:28pm
 
tell him to stop buying the CHEAP Screwfux ones then dude!! Grin Grin Grin Grin Grin Grin

heard they are made from tinfoil! Shocked
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AS HONEST AND LOYAL AS THE TIMBER-WOLF. --VAR@*SH, DON'T YOU SWEAR AT ME!! PAL!!&&I DON'T SUFFER FROM INSANITY- I DAMNED WELL ENJOY IT!!!!!
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jasonB
Re: tiling wooden floors
Reply #11 - Dec 12th, 2006, 4:20pm
 
Tell him to use aquapanel as it cuts like plasterboard and stanley knife blades are a lot cheaper than jiggy ones.

BTW Hardibacker make a spacial tool for cutting their boards.

Jason
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Re: tiling wooden floors
Reply #12 - May 25th, 2007, 9:18am
 
Chaps,

Following on from the original question, I am tiling in my kitchen / diner at the moment. The kitchen end was quarry tiled originally and I have just tiled straight over them - no problem. At the dining room end, I have wooden floorboards which are at a slightly lower level so I have made up the difference with 3mm hardboard sheets. From previous experience trying to tile onto the shiny side of these is a no-no because the adhesive won't stick, would I be safe tiling onto the rough unfinished side?, do I need to prime first. I am using Wickes dry mix tile adhesive.

Thanks

Gammy

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jasonB
Re: tiling wooden floors
Reply #13 - May 26th, 2007, 7:41am
 
DO NOT tile onto hardboard, it will expand with the moisture from the adhesive and when it dries out will crack the adhesive.

Ideally you either need to overboard with 12-15mm plywood or replace the existing floorboards with 25mm WBP ply then tile with a flexible adhesive and flexible grout.

Some will say you can tile straight onto floorboards with the right adhesive I don't take the risk, if you want to go that route then use a two part flexible adhesive with a large format trowel, this will give a thicker bed of adhesive and allow you to loose the 3mm height difference.

Jason
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