Welcome, Guest. Please Login or Register
Welcome To Ask The Trades!
May 3rd, 2024, 10:20am
Quote: Ok, so what's the speed of dark?


Pages: 1 2 3 
Send Topic Print
Garage floor (Read 18565 times)
john59
GDPR opt-out









Garage floor
Aug 11th, 2005, 7:49pm
 
Hi all, At the moment I am erecting a concrete sectional garage onto the existing concrete garage floor. The purpose of the garage is not for the car but as a home cinama.  I know the proceedure regarding screeding and such to make the floor warm and level ready for the final covering (carpets) but I have a problem, the door that I am fitting is 81 inches tall (frame) and from the base of the garage to the top of the  wall plate that I will be putting on measures 82 and a half inches so I only have inch and a half for the screed and the carpet, are you with me so far. Apart from sand and cement screed is there any other method I could use to creat a warm sound floor.
Regards.
John.
Back to top
 
 
IP Logged
 
JerryD
GDPR opt-out









Re: Garage floor
Reply #1 - Aug 11th, 2005, 8:08pm
 
The warm floor is created well below the level of the screed.  Insulation of 100mm Jablite (or equivalent) should be under the concrete floor slab.  Undecided

If the insulation needs to go directly under the screed then you need 75mm screed (mesh reinforced) on top of 100mm insulation.

That's 7 inches..................................  Kiss
Back to top
 
 
IP Logged
 
john59
GDPR opt-out









Re: Garage floor
Reply #2 - Aug 11th, 2005, 8:32pm
 
Oh Bugger Angry  Thats realey set me back I can't rip up the concrete and I can't lift the roof any more than I have, back to the drawing board then unless someone else has any suggestions Cry
Back to top
 
 
IP Logged
 
JerryD
GDPR opt-out









Re: Garage floor
Reply #3 - Aug 11th, 2005, 8:34pm
 
But where did you think this 'warmth' was going to come from?

Has your slab even got a dpm?  ???
Back to top
 
 
IP Logged
 
john59
GDPR opt-out









Re: Garage floor
Reply #4 - Aug 11th, 2005, 8:53pm
 
Thanks for the reply, I think it has a dpm Embarrassed If it hasn't what next, this may sound daft but if I was to lay down a layer of sand then visquene (is that how you spell it)  then a layer of polystyrene and finaly plywood (please don't laugh I'm doing this on a shoestring budjet,very little money at the mo) would this be plausable? Just to add, the room will be used for two and a half hours max at any one time and will be heated with oil filled rads in cold weather.
Regards .
John
Back to top
 
 
IP Logged
 
CWatters
Super Member
*****
Offline

"Daddy fick it" says James

Posts: 5150


Total Thanks: 58
For This Post: 0


Gender: male

Re: Garage floor
Reply #5 - Aug 11th, 2005, 10:34pm
 
Could you lay a few courses of bricks around the edge and put the sectional garage on top of that. This would raise it up enough to fit in the insulation and screed floor. Not sure where the dpc would have to go - perhaps a layer over the whole slab before you start?.
Back to top
« Last Edit: Aug 11th, 2005, 10:37pm by CWatters »  
Thank User For This Post View members image gallery  
IP Logged
 
john59
Re: Garage floor
Reply #6 - Aug 11th, 2005, 11:00pm
 
Cheers CWatters.
Allready done that Smiley, but thank's anyway, I put a coarse of bricks down a built the sections on top to give me more head room when finnished but even with a wall plate at the back of the garage at 4 inches I still only have 82 and a half inches to play with and I can't put the door anywhere else.
Best regards.
John.
Back to top
 
Thank User For This Post  
IP Logged
 
woodsmith
Global Moderator
Trade Member
Author
*****
Offline


Posts: 4395


Total Thanks: 135
For This Post: 0


Gender: male

Trade: Joiner

Re: Garage floor
Reply #7 - Aug 12th, 2005, 7:17am
 
I'm not sure if you need to comply with building regs ??? it is not an habitable room so probably not. In which case you could lay 25mm Xtratherm or Kingspan, not sure if you can get 25mm Jablite. The Xtratherm is about £14 per 8x4 sheet. Then lay minimum 1000 gauge dpm over the insulation and 150mm up the walls; then lay 18mm t&g flooring chipboard, glueing all the joints and leaving a 10mm minimum expansion gap round the edge.

This does end up being 43mm without carpets but does have the advantage that the floor has little thermal mass so the room will warm up quickly. You would be advised to fit a 2x1 tanalised batten at the door reveal to support the chipboard floor and anywhere else round the edge where the floor may have to take a particular load.

Hope this helps

Keith
Back to top
 
Thank User For This Post View members image gallery  
IP Logged
 
john59
Re: Garage floor
Reply #8 - Aug 12th, 2005, 9:36am
 
Cheers Keith, great help Wink  I have been thinking, to put in place a 5 inch wall plate instead of four is feesable so I would then have 60mm approx of depth at the floor.
Again thanks for the advice on product recomendation.
On building regs, that is something  that worries me a bit simply for the insurance of the contents within the garage (approx £3500 worth of equipment) If i ever move I could always revert the garage back into a garage if you see what I mean.
Back to top
 
Thank User For This Post  
IP Logged
 
CWatters
Super Member
*****
Offline

"Daddy fick it" says James

Posts: 5150


Total Thanks: 58
For This Post: 0


Gender: male

Re: Garage floor
Reply #9 - Aug 12th, 2005, 1:52pm
 
I think Building Control Approval is required if the floor area is bigger than 30 (or is it 36?) square meters.
Back to top
 
Thank User For This Post View members image gallery  
IP Logged
 
john59
Re: Garage floor
Reply #10 - Aug 12th, 2005, 2:02pm
 
30 I think,I will check it out. It's an 18 foot by 8 foot garage (pretty standard I think) just wondering how to calculate that to metric?
Back to top
 
Thank User For This Post  
IP Logged
 
JerryD
Re: Garage floor
Reply #11 - Aug 12th, 2005, 7:58pm
 
What are you intending for the walls and ceiling regarding insulation?  Most heat goes out through the roof, then through the walls.  The floor looses the least (as heat rises).
Back to top
 
Thank User For This Post  
IP Logged
 
john59
Re: Garage floor
Reply #12 - Aug 12th, 2005, 9:21pm
 
taken some advice from an AV forum I visit so I will probebly go along with this method.

Brick the garage door up to form your outer leaf (if it's only single storey you should be ok building straight off the concrete floor. The inner leaf I'd construct in timber frame (say 75mm x 50mm studs) like you suggested - but you'd need to keep it approx 50mm off the face of the outer leaf. Your vapour barrier would be between the outer leaf and the timber studs (to stop the insulation getting any moisture in it). pack the studs out in mineral wool insulation then put a breather membrane on top followed by the plasterboard sheets and a skim finish. There are lots of horror stories about timber frame constructions but they're all to do with not being built right - if it's done correctly then they're brilliant at keeping the heat in (Scandinavians use 300mm thick of insulation and most of the houses are built that way).The blockwork should be pretty good at sound deadening - where most sound transmittance occurs, it comes from gaps around doors frames especially the bottom - even those draught excluder brushes can be very effective as well as escutcheons over keyholes.

Back to top
 
Thank User For This Post  
IP Logged
 
woodsmith
Global Moderator
Trade Member
Author
*****
Offline


Posts: 4395


Total Thanks: 135
For This Post: 0


Gender: male

Trade: Joiner

Re: Garage floor
Reply #13 - Aug 13th, 2005, 7:05am
 
John, timber frame internal wall sounds OK but the vapour barrier goes between the plasterboard and the studding. The vapour barrier is there to prevent warm moist air from inside the room condensing on the cold inner face of the outer wall not to prevent moisture from outside affecting the insulation.

The wall I would build is as follows;

line the inner face of wall with breathable membrane, (Ruberoid or Tyvek) pretty expensive at about £100 a roll!!

3x2 stud wall from tanalised timber

Use 70mm Expamet(I meant  Xtratherm  Roll Eyes well it was early) or the like to insulate between the studs, you need to get a good a fit as you can then fill ALL the gaps with expanding foam.

Then lay a vapour barrier over the studding, before applying 2 layers of 12mm plaserboard, staggering the joints to aid sound-proofing.

The studding can be attached to the outer wall for strength or leave a gap for better sound insulation, but then it may need bracing on the long wall.

One simple job, so many ways of doing it Roll Eyes

Keith

Back to top
« Last Edit: Aug 13th, 2005, 11:43am by woodsmith »  
Thank User For This Post View members image gallery  
IP Logged
 
JerryD
Re: Garage floor
Reply #14 - Aug 13th, 2005, 8:54am
 
Woody, I didn't know Expamet made insulation  Tongue

Cheesy
Back to top
 
Thank User For This Post  
IP Logged
 
woodsmith
Global Moderator
Trade Member
Author
*****
Offline


Posts: 4395


Total Thanks: 135
For This Post: 0


Gender: male

Trade: Joiner

Re: Garage floor
Reply #15 - Aug 13th, 2005, 11:52am
 
[quote author=JerryD  link=1123786176/0#14 date=1123919656]Woody, I didn't know Expamet made insulation  Tongue

Cheesy [/quote]

Neither did I, I think it's news to them too Cheesy

I was actually thinking that John could use a metal stud wall rather than timber and in the early hour got my Xtra mixed up with my Expa Roll Eyes.

Thanks for spotting the cock up, good job we are a team round here Wink
Back to top
 
Thank User For This Post View members image gallery  
IP Logged
 
JerryD
Re: Garage floor
Reply #16 - Aug 13th, 2005, 12:45pm
 
We are a team, remember the screed cock up, if it hadn't been for you someone would be chest deep in the stuff  Grin
Back to top
 
Thank User For This Post  
IP Logged
 
Pages: 1 2 3 
Send Topic Print