Anyone know how to hang one? I know what the end result is meant to look like but have a few questions about the process...

The bottom hook has a tapered spike that has to be driven into the oak post. Ok so I assume some sort of pilot hole has to be drilled. What diameter? It seems to me that if I get it wrong and I'll find myself with the spike not far enough in yet unable to get it out?

Then there is the bolt through top hook. This is a square bar threaded at one end. Obviously the threaded end goes through a hole drilled in the post and the nut fitted on the back. But it appears the square part is too long to set hook the right distance away from the post. It looks like the square section has to be pulled partly into the post? Again it looks very hit and miss?

or is it me missing something?

If you are fitting this to an oak post you won't be able to drive it in very much so the depth that you drill is just as critical as the diameter.

I drill the same diameter as the width of the square section, leaving just the shoulders to grip. Drill the hole only very slightly less deep than you want the peg to fit. I usually give it a couple of belts with a sledge hammer to seat it (make sure it's square though)

Drill the top hole the same diameter (that is if the two brackets are the same section). The threaded part should push through the hole, fit the nut and washer and tap the fitting into the post making sure it is square. Then you can pull the rest of the fitting into the post by tightening the nut. Once you are anywhere near, fit the gate then you can turn the nut and set the gate level.

Keith

I think you are better off with the pin type if you can fit it, the plate hanger is more for fitting onto masonry and not as strong.

Plus, grease the threads on the top hanger, it'll make life a lot easier when you come to level the gate.

Glad you got it sort, I take it the cold is better

Click to enlarge...










The keen eye may spot a few slight errors..

It's a cheap oak gate. Could be better quality but it's a paddock after all.

If it looks a bit high that's because there is a slight hollow I want to fill in under the gate to make the ground flatter on the lawn side.

The hooks aren't quite on the center line of the post like they should be. That's because I put the striker post in while I still had the post hole boring machine for the fence (eg before hanging the gate) I measured and remeasured before concreting the hanging post...and still got it slightly wrong.

The striking post is a bit narrow for the gate latch - I thought a 6" post would do that end and forgot it needed to be wide enough for the hoop latch.

I can't decide if I should put the top rail on the fence or cut it short so the paddock feels attached to the house.

Ooo rrrr missus Its huge!  

Looks a good job, also looks like bloody hard work! Well done mate!

> Bottom hammer in spike - mine is 20mm square so best to drill 20mm diameter hole?  

Yes that's what I did. It went in ok using a club hammer then a sledge hammer. Not too hard. I'd suggest drilling the hole 15-20 mm shallower than you want the spike to go in. eg so the spike goes into the bottom of the hole. When the gate is open 90 degrees there is a lot of load pushing the bottom spike in. (About 2.5 times the weight of the gate). I think having the bottom spike stick out say 10mm  too far is better than having it 10mm too far in or having it pressed in too far by the weight of the gate. The correct depth is so that about 60mm sticks out (measured from the face of the post to the center line of the hinge pin). Got that off the web somewhere.

After you hammer it in a say 1" stop then to check it's not rotating in the hole due to the grain. If it is rotating use large spanner to twist it back but over do it a bit to allow for further twisting. Mine ended up a bit off true but it doesn't seem to effect the way it works. Lots of play in the hinge anyway.

> Top bolt - 20mm square and then 20mm diametre thread so again
> 20mm hole all the way through the post?   Obviously a 20mm square
> won't fit through a 20mm diametre circle but will it go through ok by
> tightening the bolt and whacking with a hammer?  

Yes top was easier then the bottom as the square section doesn't have to go in as far. 20mm hole right through. On mine the square section tapered down to round. It was quite a steep taper but not abrupt. My drill was too short so had to get longer. Again I tapped the square section in gently with the sledge hammer. Wasn't too hard. Tightening the nut also drew it in.

I put the top one in with pin pointing up like the bottom but some people advise putting it in higher up with the pin pointing down so nobody can just lift the gate off. For that you need people to hold the gate while you install the pin.

You can either hang the gate between the posts so it opens both ways (but only about 90 degrees) or against the face of the post so it opens one way (but 180 degrees). I hung mine against the face. The open width works out the same. If your ground slopes even slightly that might effect the decision to put the gate between or on the face because the adjustment works in one direction.

Best to dig the post hole for the striking end after you have hung the gate. Consider using an 8" post that end as well if face mounted. I opted for a cheaper 6" and that made it harder to position the post so that a standard field gate latch was in exactly the right place. You lose a bit of width where the gate strikes the post. It has to be in the right place or the spring loading is too heavy to operate the catch. The extra 2" would have made it a bit easier.

Apart from digging the holes (clay soil) I quite enjoyed doing it and it hasn't moved or dropped any. I didn't treat the gate and it's looking quite black with a hint of silver. Hopefully it will go silver properly eventually.

Mine looked like this one. Where the washer is you can just see it's got a 45 slope between square and round. Went into my post ok.

http://www.toolstation.com/images/library/stock/webbig/43203.jpgrand=930706406