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Finishing/Polishing (Read 2758 times)
Sandy
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Finishing/Polishing
Mar 4th, 2009, 5:46pm
 
I've a question about finishing/polishing if anyone can assist?

I've an old large chest of drawers that I've dismantled, sanded and is nearly ready to re-assemble, however, I've spent ages taking it apart and going through the grits, that I don't want to knacker it up now. The top, 2 sides and 5 drawer fronts are made from solid mahogany and the front is a soft wood, veneered with an unknown wood.

After finishing the sanding (down to 320 grit) and scraping, I lightly moistened the surface to raise any grain and re-scraped once dry. I've then gone over the whole thing with 3 coats of sanding sealer (cutting back lightly with 320 grit paper).

Now is the stage that I'm a little confused at. I want to build up a nice deep glossy finish, but I don't know what the next stage is. I've read a few different books about finishing and I'm more puzzled than I was before. If I'm right in saying, I can continue building up sanding sealer to a gloss finish, or I can move on to the french button polish. Is this correct?

If I go down the french polish route (which is where I think I'm heading), I then have a few more questions. I've an offcut of similar timber and have prepared it in exactly the same way. I've applied some Liberon Pale French Button Polish with a cloth and gently applied. From some of the books I have read they recommend using a "figure of 8" rubbing technique. However, very quickly the surface goes tacky. The only way I can stop this is by applying a little more polish which I can already see is building up a deeper shine. Is this correct? If so, how do I eliminate the swirls that I can see on the surface?

If I'm on the right path then I'm thinking that this is almost the same technique as the "bulling your boots" as you would in the Army for example (Button polish is the wax polish, but what is the equivalent of the spit?). Is this right?

Sorry about the length of this. Any advice gratefully accepted.
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« Last Edit: Mar 4th, 2009, 5:48pm by Sandy »  
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woodsmith
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Re: Finishing/Polishing
Reply #1 - Mar 5th, 2009, 7:49am
 
French polishing is a bit of an art and you really need to see a demonstration.

Failing that, get a piece of wood and practice before you start on the chest.

Normally I brush the first coat of button polish on which then needs to be left to dry before it is sanded smooth.

Then I make up a rubber, an old handkerchief with cotton wool inside works, this is soaked in polish and then as much polish as possible needs to be squeezed out, I put a drop of raw linseed oil on the rubber then rub the rubber on the surface.

It should not stick and any swrl marks should quickly evaporate away. If you are getting marks then you are putting too much polish on. Never let the rubber stop or it will stick and you are back to square one.

Sanding sealer is AFAIK very thin shelac I have never tried building up a finish with it as it is not designed for this.

Compared to "ordinary" button polish I find pale polish harder to use, it does off very quickly and so you need to ensure it is fresh stock, in fact it is better to mix your own. I you want to use a pale polish I would suggest practicing with button polish first.

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Sandy
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Re: Finishing/Polishing
Reply #2 - Mar 5th, 2009, 6:41pm
 
Thanks for the advice WS.

D'oh, it never dawned on me to brush the first coat on. Never even crossed my mind.

I now have another question. In the various books/articles I've read about polishing, they also mention linseed oil as do you. However, some say use raw and others say boiled.

I'm certainly not questioning your decisions and choices, but what's the difference (other than one has obviously been heated) and why do you say use raw?

Thanks.
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« Last Edit: Mar 5th, 2009, 6:41pm by Sandy »  
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woodsmith
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Re: Finishing/Polishing
Reply #3 - Mar 6th, 2009, 7:51am
 
The oil is just used as a lubricant, it does not form any part of the final finish and so you do not want it to dry. Raw linseed oil dries far slower than boiled so raw is the best choice although I don't think it matters that much which one you go for. I often use mineral oil (parafin oil) but it is more difficult to get hold of.

The final coats of finish are thinned with meths and this helps to spirit away any remaining oil.

The first coat is the thick coat, hence the brush, all the remaining coats are micro thin and don't actually build up the finish that much.
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« Last Edit: Mar 6th, 2009, 7:52am by woodsmith »  
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