I had a DeWalt 2000, portable but that made it too lightweight for its own good.

After a good look round I made my own

rutland seem to have removed a few accsesorys from there table to reduce the price
at least at that price worth a punt as you can make your own fittings and more substancial spring loaded guide fences and supports
http://www.rutlands.co.uk/cgi-bin/psProdDet.cgi/DK2009

Perhaps buy an insert plate and make your own table? Axminster sell a few plates at £40-£50.

There is a nice home made table here that uses a Trend t11. This has a fine height adjuster that can be adjusted from above the table..

http://www.ukworkshop.co.uk/forums/viewtopic.php?t=32655&highlight=router+insert...

H Tim could you post a picture of your home-made (not really home-made, more workshop made) router table pls?

Quote:


I thought who's this H Tim, then the penny dropped, perhaps its time to change it back

I've seen plenty of the cast table/ sliding alloy carriage router tables about. They all seem to be made in the same factory and then badged up with the odd additional feature depending on badge.

I wanted an all singing dancing table so the only option was to build one myself. Not cheap though, I could have bought several cast iron ones for the same money.


The table has a short fence running front to back, adjusted by an Incra LS Positioner I can use it for very detailed work when I need to work to fine tollerances. It has a 36mm MDF top, laminated with Formica, together with the rest of the carcase it weighs a tonne! The router is completely enclosed in the central compartment and is one of the quietest machines in the shop.



It also has a long fence running along the table, it pivots at one end and is clamped at the other.


The router is fitted in a Woodpecker chain driven lift, like the Incra fence it is accurate to about a 1/1000". The router has an Xtreme extension fitted to allow changes above the table.

Both fences are tall and have T slots allowing me to fit hold downs above the cutter, with the addition of a hold down fitted in the table the blade is completely covered. Router tables can be dangerous because it is easy to climb cut by accident.

Dust extraction is via a 100mm duct, split between the router enclosure and the fence and is normally as near 100% as you can get.

Despite the weight it is on wheels and I can relatively easily move it round the workshop. Together with the mass of storage it holds I wouldn't like to be without it.

I don't remember seeing it Keith, it looks the business!! Like you said it would cost a lot more than the off-the-shelf versions.

Joiner the first one you linked to is the same as the one I am interested in, just a re-badged version (the one I linked to earlier for £179). They are not cheap but they do look pretty good (based on what I can see on my PC). I don't know of anybody who sells them locally so I can go and kick the tyres?

R S Paskins. Dave (manager), Rob, and Chris will look after you.

Go into Kiddy, under the railway viaduct to the big island and take the first exit to Stourport. Keep going across the lights, over the pedestrian crossing and when you're over the hump of the railway bridge, past the old beet factory and look out for the filter road to the right. Take a right and the road goes through a tight 's' with a l/h turn out of the apex towards Brintons. Take that left and look out for the motorbike shop on the right. Paskins is immediately after it.

If you come via Stourport from Worcester, head into Kiddy and at the first major light-controlled junction take a left and immediate right onto the estate road that runs parallel to the main road. Paskins is a few hundred yards on the left, just before the caravan snack bar.

Problem is, they don't always have their full stock, although the place is packed to the eaves with goodies that will give you an idea. If it's not there they'll get it in and deliver it, no problem.

My experience of Charnwood is good, both in terms of their build and their after-sales.

I've had that particular router table for four and a half years and it gets a regular belting! And it's accurate to whatever you set it at! For scribed joints it's spot on, with little (if any) breakout even on cheapo redwood.

Our posts crossed there mate. Go for the Charnwood, they might LOOK similar but they differ in important detail. I had the Record before the Charnwood.

Z you have to think what you are likely to use the table for. Do you need a sliding table? I imagine you would only really need that for tennoning, so are going to start cutting tennons on the router table?

Otherwise a flat top with a router insert would probably work as well. You can easily make a fence, pivot it at one end and clamp it at the other. Fit a T track to the top for a mitre fence and hang the table on the wall when you are not using it.

BA yours works, and its definately good value for money

Have you got a fork lift?

I'll leave it you in my will

Quote:


Good thinking, I hope the logic works as well with Mrs Z as it did with Mrs W

woodsmith wrote on May 27^th, 2009, 9:26pm:


thanks keith do they deliver to the other side both need an lift with long cables its the same in the top floor or basament option  
if you leave it to me in your will you can show me how to use it when you visit

Thanx Joiner, I may just take you up on your offer  

londonman wrote on May 28^th, 2009, 9:47pm:

Last time I spoke to you you said that you could not get into your workshop because it was too full!

Since whenever.

And I've never been Fensa approved, nor would I ever seek it, for three reasons:

1. Working on old properties the work is usually done under Conservation (especially if Listed or Article 4) and the work (method, design and materials) has therefore to be approved by the CO, before, during and on completion before it's signed off.

2. If within a conservation area and retaining PDR (no Article 4) then the work will be done under notice; surveyed by the BCO prior to start and inspected by them on completion.

3. Having worked with and for Fensa registered window fitters my first-hand experience is that Fensa is a licence for cowboys (even those with otherwise excellent woodworking skills) to get away with murder and it's something I wouldn't associate myself with. It's like the various trade "guilds" and "federations", if you can pay the entrance money and do the job on the day their guy comes to check you're in. It's a joke and has been since inception. Classing it in the same category as the gas or electrical regulatory bodies is an insult to them.

We've got a guy who's just started operating locally who's touting himself as a "conservation expert" and has targeted conservation areas. An ex-director of a upvc company, he's Fensa registered and fitting timber windows. He's "started to come to the notice" of local COs having fitted totally inappropriate windows which the customers, who only realised what was happening when the windows were in, had taken his word for as being right. He's done a lot of damage and, by undercutting the established guys (who quoted to do the work properly), has done them a lot of harm as well. (I'll mention that that doesn't include me, with a full order book until the middle of August.)

My work is inspected at every significant point in the process and signed off by an objective, independent party. Self-regulation is neither objective nor independent, which is why it's not for me.

Spot on, Joiner.  I hate the mass produced windows that are all wood and no glass.  Ugly brown colour. Mind you, not as bad as uPVC windows.

FENSA is a scandal, people think they are getting an insurance backed warranty through FENSA itself. Nothing could be further from the truth. They don't want to know if anything goes wrong.

But I have to pay the BCO £160 every time I fit a window.

The £160 was a guess, I couldn't remember exactly

Anyway I've just looked up my last couple of payments and they were both for £141. This was to Shrewsbury and Atcham so perhaps they had a different fee structure.